Chipping away the underhood sound proofing

[Nicad]

I was wondering if the hard plasticky sound proofing is still available and what forum members have done to their cars underhood. I noticed the start of some rusting when I chipped a piece of this stuff off near the wiper motor. I think I would like to get rid of all of it and treat the area with POR15, then not sure what I would put on top of that.

Suggestions appreciated.

 

[HB Chris]

It is NLA. Coupeking uses a very close match with a hexagon pattern, he might sell some to you.

 

[Nicad]

It is NLA. Coupeking uses a very close match with a hexagon pattern, he might sell some to you.

Well, they won't sell me any. Anyone know of a substitute, or have you just left this area as painted metal?

 

[Stevehose]

Previous discussion:

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3530

Also contact Jerry (61Porsche) I think he may know of a source the Porsche guys use.

 

[CSteve]

When I had my Polaris coupe resprayed I left the inside of the hood naked. I love the shiny paint. And don't miss looking at the foam or whatever. I would not want to mute the turbine-like sound of that lovely six. And how much can a quarter inch of foam muffle? And when it peels away there is the rust issue, or is there?

I don't know if our cars came from the factory with or without foam. Was it a dealer option?

Anybody???

 

[Nicad]

Oneils, sorry for the confusion, but I am talking about the Mastic like substance that I am assuming was applied as a sound deadener. The area I am most interested in dealing with is the stuff by my wiper motor. I'd like to chip it away, but want to do something with the cosmetic issues I am left with. I doubt that foam changes much of the engine note. I had a very nice looking Polaris hood, but I must say it looks pretty good with new, perfect foam in place.

Thanks for the link Steve.

 

[Stevehose]

I had a similar issue - had to pull up a cracking piece of insulation - replaced with a piece of dynamat I painted silver but I hate it - would be interested in a solution also. I also like the look of my new foam hood insulation.

Oneils, sorry for the confusion, but I am talking about the Mastic like substance that I am assuming was applied as a sound deadener. The area I am most interested in dealing with is the stuff by my wiper motor. I'd like to chip it away, but want to do something with the cosmetic issues I am left with. I doubt that foam changes much of the engine note. I had a very nice looking Polaris hood, but I must say it looks pretty good with new, perfect foam in place.

Thanks for the link Steve.

 

[Bert Poliakoff]

The shock towers and inner fender panels on the early E24s appear to be the same. What I did when restoring mine, before totally stripping everything out of the car was to make a paper pattern. i then found self sticking tar paper of the same thickness. It is called torch down. I formed it onto the car using a propane torch and gently heating it while using a wall paper seam roller to press it tight while heating. It can't be told from the factory stuff that was on there, which I believe to be tar paper originally. I did my floor boards with it too and am more than satisfied with the finished product as I can't visually tell it from the original. It should be well cleaned with acetone and then washed with enamel reducer before painting.

 

[Nicad]

The shock towers and inner fender panels on the early E24s appear to be the same. What I did when restoring mine, before totally stripping everything out of the car was to make a paper pattern. i then found self sticking tar paper of the same thickness. It is called torch down. I formed it onto the car using a propane torch and gently heating it while using a wall paper seam roller to press it tight while heating. It can't be told from the factory stuff that was on there, which I believe to be tar paper originally. I did my floor boards with it too and am more than satisfied with the finished product as I can't visually tell it from the original. It should be well cleaned with acetone and then washed with enamel reducer before painting.

Sounds like a great approach Bert. Can you post some photos of the finished product?


Thanks.

 

[61porsche]

reasonable facsimilie

http://www.genflex.com/uploadedFile...Sheets/Peel and Stick EPDM Flashing 12-08.pdf

Home depot, Lowes, etc.

 

[Nicad]

Thank you. Looks like the quantities for sale are huge. Maybe if we get templates for this stuff or something else that is optimal, we can get a pretty good price by cutting up a roll and shipping it with a PDF template. .

 

[bert35csi]

When I had my Polaris coupe resprayed I left the inside of the hood naked. I love the shiny paint. And don't miss looking at the foam or whatever. I would not want to mute the turbine-like sound of that lovely six. And how much can a quarter inch of foam muffle? And when it peels away there is the rust issue, or is there?

I don't know if our cars came from the factory with or without foam. Was it a dealer option?

Anybody???

Agreed on the bare look without the insulation. When I will redo my coupe, the insulation will come completely off. It is a great water and moisture trap.. "Go bare"

Believe the CSL's were not fitted with this insulation. Saw a couple of rusted out CSL's, in particular the upper engine compartment, odd thing though, the only areas that were not totally rusted out were the upper inner fender panels that were not covered with this tar like material.

 

[61porsche]

Further.....

1. The substitute material is available in small rolls, so there's no need to purchase a large quantity. In construction, residential, it is commonly referred to as window flashing. It originated from a roofing material, EPDM otherwise known as a rubber roof material. "Peel and Stick" is the common term.


2. Underhood insulation or sound deadening- I would only note that it aids in preventing your hood paint from crazing and cracking from extreme temperatures and spikes after a run. It is especially true for certain body work, primers, and paints. Certainly not for all, but so much; it's worth noting from those that have experienced the occurence. Cause, contributory, or not; the result is unfortunate.

The newer closed cell materials now are able to withstand 400 degrees. For those that can do their own, Grainger sells a material. It's in the $20 -30 range in terms of costs.

Just my humble comments.

Merry Christmas to all.

 

[Luis A.]

Guys, this looks to me like what we are are looking for.

http://www.stevens-shop.de/shop/Auto-Daemmstoffe:::57.html
Look at the Anti-Dröhn-Matte. That's it. See it installed here:

Also check out the aluminum clad fiberglass material. Looks like a great substitute for the lower firewall aluminized material.