Clutch woes - figured something out TO bearing

tdgray

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On the hunt to figure out why the clutch is so crappy. If you have followed the other complaints... First it was the master and then an issue with lines and a handful of other things in the way.

I pulled the slave today and got my inspection camera up there. The throw out bearing separated from it's backing that attaches to the fork.

I have never seen this before... Has anyone else experienced this?

This is the older style throw out...2800 style.

Other than just a bad bearing I am wondering if there is anything that might cause this that I should look for.

I'll start pulling the gearbox... Sheesh.
 
i am afraid that you have to drop it to get access. that is dropping the tranny as you can't pull the bellhousing without removing the tranny. it seems to me that the t/o bearing goes over the tranny shaft.
 
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Yes, you'll need to remove the bell housing in order to make sure that you have the throw-out bearing seated correctly on its fork. If you're going to that level, may just want to change out the clutch since you'll be right there and you'll have changed out half the system (TO bearing). And then may as well get the flywheel resurfaced...you see how this goes. But seriously, having had to remove my transmission a few times over the last year (changing from 4-speed to 5-speed #1, then realizing I hadn't lubed the inner surface of the TO bearing - the part that the manual says "be sure to lube this region or else the whole thing will fail - then 5-speed #2, it's not as bad a job as it seems. Transmission jack from Harbor Freight for $100 or borrow one or find one on marketplace makes the job a LOT easier.
 
I have a lift and a tranny jack. The clutch is brand new.

Edit.., I just remembered something… okay not that horrible.
 
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Shuddering… varying pedal release angles… adjust it one way… next day it’s different. Knew it was something in there. Just wasn’t sure what.
 
“Shuddering” might be partially explained by lack of lubrication on the sleeve upon which the throw out bearing “rides” - (in addition to any possible bearing defect). Once that sleeve starts to wear unevenly, it is not self correcting. Rust or flat spots may develop, shortening the working life of the throw out bearing and clutch. Examine the area where the throw out bearing contacts the sleeve. You may note a deep groove that can be greased to prevent or diminish internal wear. Similarly, grease on the sleeve itself achieves the same result. (Unfortunately, just like window channels, grease is good until is is mixed with contaminants. So it is probably decent preventative maintenance to check the sleeve for signs of abnormal wear or lack of lubrication - to the extent possible, e.g., when checking transmission lube level.)

Starting with a clean, rust frei and round trans input sleeve/throw out bearing sleeve and a decent throw out bearing - is a recipe for decent clutch service life. Parking in a well lit area and eating vegetables couldn't hurt either.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TO-05fV3SsrLMBW47FQ56KLrNz70Vrz1/view (Autobook's Clutch Fault Diagnosis seems to omit the throw out bearing as a possible cause for "judder." As distinct from "shudder" ?) Wonder what became of Autobook coauthor, Mary Ball, and her 2800CS.

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For illustrative purposes. Not correct parts.
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Does anyone use an annular hydraulic throw out bearing? They have been great on other projects I have used and eliminates the mechanical part of the system. And they can be adjusted and lubricated
 
I lubricated when installed. It’s been in there for less than 200 miles. All parts were brand new. The problems started right off the bat.

I think… think… we just have a defective part here. I’ll know more when I get it out. See if there is any scoring. But there didn’t appear to be anything thus far.

This was a non BMW part… Saks I believe. I’m replacing with the BMW part. Who knows if that will make a difference.
 
Could be wrong, but Sachs, fka Fichtel & Sachs and now known as ZF Sachs, has been an OE supplier for BMW und other European brands.
Despite their best efforts, manufacturers of mass produced products do not always achieve perfection and although unlikely . . . new parts can fail.
You mention that all parts were brand new. Did that also include the transmission input shaft sleeve? Yours may have been and continues to be usable. Of course the clutch fork and its pivot pin also need in good shape and properly greased to ensure smooth clutch engagement/disengagement, but it is hard to imagine how that would cause a throw out bearing to fail. o_O

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/getrag-265-prep-devinder.41994/

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