Clutch your pearls -- aftermarket HVAC

jefflit

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By what I would hesitate to call "popular demand", but a request from a brave few at https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/alpine-lcd-behind-speaker-grille.42510/post-419276 -- here is how I've solved HVAC in my EV projects. This would be an extreme solution to problems from the factory heat and a/c systems, which have always been a tad less than great.

As mentioned in that previous post, Restomod Air makes a compact, electronically controlled HVAC unit that will fit under the dash of an E9. Note: I have no affiliation with Restomod Air. They don't give me any free products or discounts. There are probably many similar aftermarket units out there. Personally, I installed a Vintage Air unit in my 1967 Camaro and I love it. That said, the Restomod Air unit is compact and works well but, like any generic aftermarket unit, it is far from a bolt-in solution and poses a number of new challenges:

  • Mounting
  • Controls
  • Closing up the original heater blower hole
  • Glovebox modification
  • Defroster vent modification
  • Dash vent adapter
  • A/C hose adaption
  • Heater hose re-route

The evaporator core measures 11" x 6" x 2.5". the heater core measures 11" x 6" x a.5". The A/C blows cold but is still limited to the two "freeze your knees" dash vents (at least in my installation -- there are 4 dash ducts if you want to try to run a couple extra hoses somewhere else but I blocked off two).

They use a Spal 009-A70-74D variable speed blower fan which can draw up to 19.6 amps and moves up to 319 CFM at high speed.
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Mounting

I used the Vapir 2-S in the first car and the Vapir 3-S in the next two cars. The 3-S is slightly larger but has separate ducting for floor heat and better configured defroster ducts (they point up, not back). This allows for independent adjustability between dash, defrost and floor mode whereas with the 2-S there are only two modes with 4 ports each so typically floor and defroster share ducts. Both units come with an aluminum plate that has 4 holes to mount to the firewall. I mounted with rubber isolated studs to set the unit 3/4" or so back from the firewall. I forget exactly where the holes lined up with the 2-S but I recently did the 3-S and the left-side holes align right where the oval hole in the firewall for the heater hoses resides. This may pose a challenge. More on heater hoses later.

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Controls

All the Restomod Air units are Bluetooth enabled. This would be by far the easiest way to control the units. Just install the app on your phone and control it via the app. Alternatively, they have a small key-fob remote you can use if you don't like phone apps. Finally, they have all sorts of options for physical switches (dials/knobs). You don't have to pick one method -- you can freely switch between using the App, the Remote Control, and hard mounted dash controls.
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Despite this thread being all about aftermarket solutions, I am a big fan of making things look stock so I opted to make the original heater levers control the units. This is a challenge, made easier by the fact that Restomod Air sells a "EZ CABLE INTEGRATORS W/ LINEAR SWITCH- 3 SPEED BLOWER" kit for $199. You won't find this item on their website but you can call and order it. It includes a 3-position switch and two linear potentiometers and the wiring to connect them to the Vapir unit. The switch controls the blower fan and the potentiometers control the blend door (temperature) and the diverter door (dash, floor, or defrost).

There are probably a few ways to do this. With the Vintage Air unit in my Camaro, the pots have cable ends that attach directly to the control levers in place of the original Bowden cables. I couldn't figure out how to make that work with the pots in the kit so I started by designing a new plate to replace the original lever plate. I also designed some lever extensions and had then laser cut. These are necessary to both extend the levers and to make them thicker so the original knobs attach securely. I welded the extensions to the switch and pots and mounted them to the plate.

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There is no "fresh air vent" option with this setup so I used the original vent lever to control the A/C compressor. In this case, I was able to use the original lever. It triggers a microswitch to turn the compressor on and off. Additionally, specific to my installation, it moves another linear potentiometer that I use to control the PWM signal to the Tesla A/C compressor, thus speeding it up or slowing it down. You don't need to do any of this because the temperature control automatically turns off the compressor when moved to full warm. Image the possibilities of having a free lever.

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The final step was to dress it all up and make the labels match the functionality. For that, I designed a new label plate and 3D printed it. It took a lot of iterations before I got the fit perfect. I attempted to make it light up like the original but failed so I paused the print and swapped filaments to create the white lettering on black background instead of having to paint it. (Note: the interation in one photo is missing the WARM label -- I overlooked that for a while but eventually fixed it). In the final version, this plate also closes up the slots around the sliding levers to make them narrower.

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More to come (10,000 word limit)....
 

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Last edited:
Continued... (oiriginal photos in first post)

Closing up the original heater blower hole

The 3-S unit pokes up through the heater hole a tad. The 2-S did not. Either way, you need to close up the hole. I laser cut a box, added some weatherstrip, and bolted it to the car. I think I installed rivnuts. The one shown hides the Battery Management System up the box (with the 2-S) so I made the lid removable to service the BMS. I didn't have the original heater blower cover on that car but I'll be installing that over the cover in the other cars.

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Glovebox modification

The Vapir unit interferes with the glovebox so it needs to be modified. Who really needs a huge glovebox anyway? I used a combination of wood and fiberglass and then flocked it (but I forget where I got the flock). It came out fine. You'd never know.

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Defroster vent modification

The original defroster vents, as brittle as they are, point down too far and interfere with the Vapir units. Fortunately, @aguirola has made reproductions and I was able to get one of his first sets. Which I promptly cut up. A little cardboard prototyping, some provided ducts, and fiberglass made short work of adapting the vents to the Vapir ducts. They don't have to be pretty -- they just need to work. For the 2-S I had to design and 3D print some additional diverters to close up the 2 extra ducts and get them pointed in a more useful direction. The 3-S is much easier.

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Dash vent adapter

The front ducts on the Vapir units point nicely into the original dash vent area and I suppose you could just run hoses between them but I designed and 3D printed an adapter to convert the rectangle to two oval ducts. To tie this all back to the original thread, I found that the hoses would've interfered with my sliding speaker grill actuator so I had to print another adapter to lower the hoses around that.

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A/C Hose Adaption.

The A/C ports are modern o-ring style connections. #6 for liquid and #10 for suction. They are placed on the right side of the unit, not too far from where the factory evaporator connections live. But you will obviously need to make new hoses (or adaptors) to connect the old hoses to the new unit. The kit comes with a few fittings to help make new hoses or adapt old ones. I can't give exact advice here as I am always starting from scratch with a Tesla A/C compressor, etc. I ran my hoses to bulkhead fittings but had to work around my battery box, etc so you'll probably do something different.

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Heater hose re-route

This is the area where I can provide the least first-hand advice because I live in Southern California and didn't add cabin heat to the first build. The other two builds are still ongoing. Also, what I do for an EV build will be very different from what is required in an ICE installation. That said, I am putting cabin heat into all my builds. I have the heaters and the pumps and I'll be able to relatively easily route heater hoses to the Vapir unit.

ICE users will have more difficulty because the heater core pipes on the Vapir are on the wrong (right) side of the unit as compared to stock. An ICE installer will need to figure out a way of getting the hoses to the other side. That might be possible to do under the dash or it might require welding up the oval hole in the firewall where the hoses original came into the cabin and then routing them rightward under the hood. I'm not sure. You can see in the photo of the mock-up installation below that the left-side mounts come right through where the heater hoses are located so it might be difficult. By the way, the kit comes with an electric valve you can install that will automatically shut-off heat to the core when on full cold. This significantly increases the efficiency of the A/C system. I know many of us installed H-valves to accomplish the same thing with the stock core but this valve is automatically integrated into the system/wiring so no new knobs required.
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Wiring

Speaking of wiring, that's the easy part. The unit has an electronic control module and all you really need to do is provide 12v ignition power, ground, and the A/C compressor connection. You need 20 amps for the fan. The controls (if you run any) and everything else plug into the ECU. The ECU has the bluetooth support but can be mounted anywhere under the dash. Oh, and you have to run the drain tube, which isn't wiring but...

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Conclusion

In Conclusion, this is probably not practical for most owners. Maybe if you've got the car all apart and didn't have factory A/C and are doing an S54 engine swap or something where the heater hoses don't line up anyway? For everyone else, it would be much more practical to go with the upgraded modern evap and fans in the stock box. I think someone else on the forum was working on those ideas.

You can release your pearls now.
 
Great write up thanks for sharing! I'm in need of installing AC at least, as a UK car importer to AU. Car is stripped down so now is the time to do it. Read up on a few options but really can't decide which way to go
 
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