Coolant adequate for copper radiator and M30 aluminium head engines

deQuincey

deQuincey

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i have been unsing a VALEO coolant with mineral aditives

but they sell no more in here

so i have to change

trying to find in their documents it is not simple as they use many different words to explain

i find G11 as the specification for old engines, with copper components
 
some comments found:

When you choose the coolant, if you have a copper or brass radiator with a cast-iron block, then you need a green or blue G11 coolant. On a more modern car with an aluminum radiator, orange, purple or red G12, and G12 + coolant.
 

G12 coolant vs G11, G12+, and G13​

The three types of coolant classes, G11, G12 and G13 differ in the types of additives there are used: organic or inorganic

Differences between G12 and G11 coolant​

The G11 coolant is an older coolant class. This one was used on cars manufactured before 1996 with a large volume of the cooling system. G11 is often blue or green. Its boiling point is 105 ° C (221 ° F) and it does not last more than 2 years or 31.000 – 50.000 miles.

G11 contains a small set of inorganic additives, phosphate, and nitrates, and was created using silicate, which covers the inner surface of the system with a protective layer, regardless of the presence of corrosion areas.

Although the G11 coolant protects already existing corrosion from damage, this coolant class has low stability, poor heat transfer, and short service life. After is worn out, the G11 coolant becomes abrasive and can damage the cooling system elements.

Unlike the G12 coolant, G11 is not suitable for cars that have aluminum radiators, because its additives cannot adequately protect this metal at high temperatures.
 
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day66 said:
I use the BMW blue coolant - Lifetime coolant 87. It’s ethylene glycol based.
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Hi, thank you , but,

all G11, 12 and 13 are ethylene glycol based
All of them,

That does not make the difference

The difference is i the additives, mineral based or organic based
 
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As I understood it the pink/red antifreezes were based on organic acids that really are not compatible with older engines, especially brass and copper parts.
I've used the BMW blue for years - particularly in the M5 (20 years) which has an iron block, aluminium head/castings and a factory aluminium radiator - without issue. It's recommended that it is changed (in the M5) every couple of years, I guess as the corrosion inhibitors start to break down.
 
deQuincey said:
Any idea about composition?

Also, do you keep the original copper tube radiator?
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My radiator has been changed to aluminum, heater core remains original.

I will admit that I continue to use as I had purchased for my 2013 650i that I no longer have. Anti freezes of various manufacturers have different chemical makeups, There are inorganic acid technology, organic acid technology and hybrid organic acid technology based fluids. My admittedly brief reading seems to indicates that organic and hybrid types are superior at suppressing the electro-mechanical degradation of cooling system components.

I am now "well over my skis" on this topic...
 
boonies said:
I use the BMW blue coolant as well.
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day66 said:
As I understood it the pink/red antifreezes were based on organic acids that really are not compatible with older engines, especially brass and copper parts.
I've used the BMW blue for years - particularly in the M5 (20 years) which has an iron block, aluminium head/castings and a factory aluminium radiator - without issue. It's recommended that it is changed (in the M5) every couple of years, I guess as the corrosion inhibitors start to break down.
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bavbob said:
I use BMW Blue as well.
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a question to you please;

when using the bmw Blue one, do you dillute it in distilled water or you use it directly?
if dillute in water which ratio do you use ?

thanks
 
My engine has never been rebuilt, as such I have used distilled and tap water when re-filling after work. I recommend (and really should use) only distilled water as it is not conductive and should help to prevent electrolysis.

50/50 mix is what I shoot for.
 
From producers perspective:

IAT (Inorganic Additive Technology) - old technology not suitable for aluminum but good for copper based (soldered) - should be exchanged every 2 years
OAT (Organic Acid Technology) - can dissolve solder, so it is not suitable for copper - 5 years lifetime
HOAT lub SiOAT - new version combining IAT (silicon) and OAT (organic acids) - pushing out IAT fluids
NMOAT - for industry machines. Typically universal and compatible with most of materials used in heating/cooling installations. 7 years of lifetime
 
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