To expand further on my experience, the comment about the variety of materials used in our cooling systems is a primary reason I did not want to use any type of solvent to clean the inside of the engine. I also spoke to Mario Langston specifically about my issue (he was the person who advised using a very small drill v. trying to puncture the blockage with increasingly stronger blows because of the potential to drive dislodged gunk back into the engine). We did not discuss solvents, but he said to just flush liberally with water, fill with water and run, then drain and fill with antifreeze/water mix.
Coolant questions
- Thread starter Christopher
- Start date
This page https://hellafunctional.com/?p=629 provides some relevant information when making your decision on how to proportion water and antifreeze. Very good reference. It's all about balancing the anticorrosion, heat capacity/transfer, boiling point and freezing point. The latter is a distant third for most of us as we don't drive in freezing temperatures.
I run something around 30-35% antifreeze to gain a bit more (+10 percent) cooling capacity. I change it out every other year and the system stays clean. The boiling point, especially at ~14 PSI, isn't impacted by much. With clean, stock radiators I've never had overheating issues on the E9 or E3, including running AC on both and auto box cooling embedded in the radiator with the E3 on days up to the lower 90's.
very interesting Luis, love when there are arguments to support a decission, regards
Christopher
As you have a CSI of the same age as mine it may be worth taking a look at the other parts of the cooling system. When I had mine apart last year I also changed the hoses and the steel transfer pipe that runs under the inlet manifold. It had corroded but had not actually failed. I believe that the CSI has many more cooled / heated parts than the carb models.
Jaymic did me the transfer pipe and it was difficult but not impossible to change without removing the inlet manifold.
Good luck
C
As you have a CSI of the same age as mine it may be worth taking a look at the other parts of the cooling system. When I had mine apart last year I also changed the hoses and the steel transfer pipe that runs under the inlet manifold. It had corroded but had not actually failed. I believe that the CSI has many more cooled / heated parts than the carb models.
Jaymic did me the transfer pipe and it was difficult but not impossible to change without removing the inlet manifold.
Good luck
C
I've used citric acid (buy it online not at Whole Food$...) with success, as recommended by Mercedes. Many threads on the subject but here is one to get you started. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...3937-mb-citric-acid-cooling-system-flush.html
I attempted to open the bleeder on my engine when changing the coolant and wasn't kind enough and the original screw with the slot was broken. I'll have to wrest it out and get a replacement, probably the hex head screw style instead of the slotted one.
Ian
Ian
Can anyone suggest the correct type (rather than brand, as this might differ from country to country) of coolant that best suits our engines ?
mono etylene glycol, at 50%
valeo brand sells protective 50 and it is virtually the same stuff that we have here
Thanks DQ. Will hunt some down