Couple technical questions about M30 hardware

Wladek

Wladek

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Hey Guys,
didn't wanted to make separate threads for every single question about M30, that is in my head, so decided to make one general discussion. I hope you don't mind.
Any input is welcome;)

So, question for today is:
Which oil pump is technically better, more efficient, reliable for M30, earlier 77' or later 84'?
Both pumps fit my engine/oil pan without upgrades, so can use any, just need to know which might be slightly better. As for now, didn't made any specs measures of the parts inside, but certainly will do that before assembly.
Thanks
oil pump.jpg
 
Later one- dual pressure regulators I believe.
 
There is a fix for that single nut version to keep the nut from flying off. Replace the shaft with one with reverse threads.
While you are it you can replace the gear with the later smaller one. You will match it with the 34 tooth chain. Factory spec is .5 bar (from memory) at idle.
Max is 5 bar.
I’m not ok with .5 bar so I clock the pump.
You will need the 34 tooth chain and about 0.7-9 of spacer plate from BMW.
 
sfdon said:
There is a fix for that single nut version to keep the nut from flying off. Replace the shaft with one with reverse threads.
While you are it you can replace the gear with the later smaller one. You will match it with the 34 tooth chain. Factory spec is .5 bar (from memory) at idle.
Max is 5 bar.
I’m not ok with .5 bar so I clock the pump.
You will need the 34 tooth chain and about 0.7-9 of spacer plate from BMW.
Click to expand...
I was thinking of using a nut with hole for wire (as on photo) + red Loctite.
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Anybody know what is the difference between 1257057 & 1257057.1 camshafts (if there is any at all)?
As for me it looks like 1250057.1 is just newer version of 1250057.
Angles seem to be the same.
Just difference in markings
1257057 at front part have "3" that mean that it is standard 2.8 & 3.0 camshaft (according to blue book)
1257057.1 at front part have "B" instead of "3" & have red paint & white "B", don't know what that mean.
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Hey Guys,
wanted to ask if any of you use or used in your M30 an adjustable camshaft sprocket?
Any thoughts are welcome;)
Bez tytułu.jpg
 
in the pic with with the drilled nut.... this is left hand tread if the markings on the wheel are correct ?
 
sfdon said:
Depends on the cam and on how much the head was cut.
Race cams get slotted gears so you can set the cam timing.

https://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/HowToDegreeACam.aspx
Click to expand...
Camshaft is as above 1257057.1, i don't know how it will finally be with head shaving; as for now it is nominal, but due pretty large aluminium oxydation on the cooling channel of cylinder number two (exhaust side), some welding is currently in process, so i think 0,2mm will be shaved at least.
I was thinking of that new adjustable cam sprocket more as alternative to new oem, as it is actually much cheaper than oem at W&N.
 
Wladek said:
Camshaft is as above 1257057.1, i don't know how it will finally be with head shaving; as for now it is nominal, but due pretty large aluminium oxydation on the cooling channel of cylinder number two (exhaust side), some welding is currently in process, so i think 0,2mm will be shaved at least.
I was thinking of that new adjustable cam sprocket more as alternative to new oem, as it is actually much cheaper than oem at W&N.
Click to expand...

Link to slotted gear please.
 
Wladek said:
Hey Guys,
wanted to ask if any of you use or used in your M30 an adjustable camshaft sprocket?
Any thoughts are welcome;)
Yes, I did that. I could set the static timing to what my after market cam was supposed to be at. You'll need a degree wheel and a dial indicator to perform the procedure. Lots of DIY on Youtube and others.
Changing the static timing you can gain or loose torque or HP.

You'll have to have a machinist slot the gear for you. I see Don asking but not sure anyone is making one currently.

Gary
Click to expand...
 
I had my engine long blocked by the machine shop that did all of the machine work. I used a 284 cam and because of this and any past and present head machining and block decking, I did have them use a slotted cam gear. I never did ask them if they needed to use it, but it was there if needed. So to me, over kill never hurts. I bought the gear on one of the E24 forums many years ago and it was a production item not custom but I know many machine shops can do this with out a problem.
 
36 teeth
Each tooth is 10 degrees
I commonly see 1/2 tooth off on rebuilds
Always indexed clockwise.
Clockwise is good for high rpm but doggy off the line.
A slotted gear lets you correct cam to crank timing
 
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We used one in my b35 and Don had a tool to indicate the start of valve lift on number 1 to set it, I have a Paul Burke N21 cam.
 
i need to check with Don, not sure that we put one in my car with the schrick 284 ... since the engine is not in the car, perhaps Brendan can put one in before we put the engine in the coupe
 
It’s a process-
You need to measure diameter of crank hub
Calculate circumference
Convert degrees to distance
Roll to tdc
And on and on.
With a mild cam and decent head and block it’s not a big deal.
Decked block, cut head, aggressive cam- you need slots and a dial indicator.
 
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