CS vs CSi as a semi-daily

I only drive mine on days when the % of rain is 10 or less. Been a lot of those days this summer. Blame it on all those in denial of global warming.

But there's a private company road on the way to my office complex. Emphasize on PRIVATE. Non policed. A straightaway after the guard shack, then a sweeping left into a right. Straightaway then across a bridge.

I've hit 80 on the bridge, and gloried in the trumpeting exhaust and Webers. Kinda removes all the stress before I hit the office.
 
Nice!

My commute takes me to the airport so I use my Volvo.
Some nights when I am home I like to go out in the coupe for a cruise. Other than that it usually is my vehicle of choice to drive to the cottage in Gilmanton NH
 
daly driver issues

Just for others, Texas, at least around San Antonio, is all highways. Now I've had the car a bit, I think the 5 speed conversion with a short throw will be good. There is highway driving every day.

As with buying any used car, we are in the fettling mode now. Will be starting with tightening up 40 year old body and suspension (see suspension suspense thread), another corrosion check, fix door sag, add seatbelts, fix door locks.

Next will install Becker radio and figure out internet radio (to listen to German stations); then, attack the interior.

It's well powerful enough for me right now. :)

All advice welcome.
 
CSI 24/7 !

Why? In Sweden this BMW model is normally called 3,0 csi by folks in general talk. I guess it's because this magnificent design to be a foreign car including injection engine at the days.

CSL or CS was icecold at the time.

The domestic Volvo folks was not impressed with the design but the M30 csi engine with 200hp was some kind of a killer at the days :)
 
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Some advice for what it’s worth.


Hi SNJ,
When I bought mine I was determined to do a driving restoration… then I found this forum. My biggest issue, as with most here was rust. I was very lucky in that there was little to no rust at all on the car- It lived in Dallas, New Mexico and Austin all its life (except its short stay in NJ where I think all US cars landed). Anyhow, I did replace both front floors because the drain holes were rusted. I noticed that there was previous body work done and although I did my very best to inspect it I just could not trust putting lots of money into something that was possibly cut in half and re-welded (see sunroof nightmare thread). For that reason I decided to have the entire body stripped. I consider myself very lucky because with the exception of lots of old school dent pulling holes there was still no rust. So, I think you’re on the right track if you can be sure there are no underlying issues. I’ve been driving mine around the block a couple of times since doing the 5-speed (no glass/paint) and there is no doubt that you will enjoy it completely! So, if you’re sure you have a solid car then do it piece by piece, if not, then start saving time and money! I’ll send you a PM to see if you want to try to take it to my shop in Austin one weekend soon.

Peter C
 
Thanks Chris

I donno where I got that NJ info., Seemed a litttle unusual, but then again.. A'll delete that from my memory :)
 
Probably because the BMW Archive says all coupes delivered to Hoffman Motors in NYC, which was his corporate HQ.
 
Basic upgrades

After combing many old threads, seems to have a good daily with road trip potential, this is the list:

Complete rust repair as neccesary
5 speed overdrive 265/5 from LaJolla
CK 16" staggered with Conti DW 205/55 and and 225/50
Bilstein HD
Pertronix

All ST sourced swaybars are on backorder, but will install with springs when become available.

I am actually quite happy so far with the power, so will hold a bit there.

Thanks everyone for their input!
rt
 
...and working A/C. The greenhouse on these cars can get the interior pretty hot. At a minimum, do the heater core bypass (you can find details under search)
 
window tint / tires

David said:
...and working A/C. The greenhouse on these cars can get the interior pretty hot. At a minimum, do the heater core bypass (you can find details under search)
Click to expand...

speaking of, I had a previous car with similar lower power a/c here in Texas, and it was helped by a high quality window tint. Not very dark, but almost 100% uv reflection. Any experience with window tinting on the vast CS glass area?

Also just mounted the CK staggered 16s with Conti DWs in 205/55f and 225/50r. So far, so good. Waiting on 5 speed, springs and bars next.
 

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Window tint

As discussed before, trying to optimize the cooling. Here in south Texas, it gets blazingly hot, so to aid the already semi-marginal airconditioning, we tinted the windows with a 100% UV absorption film. It looks terrific in person, at least to me. I was very impressed with the way the rear window came out.
 

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I tinted everything in clear ceramic (including the windshield) and it cooled it way off. You can hardly tell any tint was applied and it works for cutting the heat great. Expensive to do the whole car but woth it if you drive it often.
 
snj5 said:
As discussed before, trying to optimize the cooling. Here in south Texas, it gets blazingly hot, so to aid the already semi-marginal airconditioning, we tinted the windows with a 100% UV absorption film. It looks terrific in person, at least to me. I was very impressed with the way the rear window came out.
Click to expand...

terrible !:roll:
 
JDJ said:
I tinted everything in clear ceramic (including the windshield) and it cooled it way off. You can hardly tell any tint was applied and it works for cutting the heat great. Expensive to do the whole car but woth it if you drive it often.
Click to expand...
I am planning on using the car a lot and we had 3 months over 105F almost every day one year, and it really makes a difference. I looked around and did not find a clear.
 
Tint

SNJ, I think it looks OK on that color, any other color and I think it would be "strange" (er). I understand about the heat :) Isn't that what the corvette in the background is for? :). One of the coolest things about these cars IMO is that the see-through area (clear glass) is part of the slimming design. There is a shop where I know some folks, they do all the Lotus's and Austin Martin cars sold around the corner, including Bentley’s etc, and I believe they can do a clear. When my car hits the road- hopefully late winter I'll have it done and make some inquires regarding removal of film and re-application of clear if you decide you would rather go back. I like the color of your car though- the deep green is always a winner!
 
David said:
snj5: If you haven't done so, I do think you will like the heater core bypass. Its good for a solid 5F reduction.
Click to expand...
Yes - many thanks. I had researched the heater core by-pass before as recommended earlier and is on my ever lengthening to-do list. Every degree is important. I appreciate the advice - this board has been terrific!
Russ
 
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