Repair it unless it's creased it somewhere else further up. That looks quite painful. My eyes are firmly on the rear view mirror when I stop in traffic, plan of emergency escape is already calculated, the wheels can suffer. I saw a guys 635 get stuffed up the back in traffic by a bit of Japanese plastic, sold off in bits... Done both arches though... sad times.
CSL in accident. What to do question
- Thread starter wage73
- Start date
I own a body shop and we know how to do good work.
More, better pics will help, but it looks like the metal is ripped ... so it will have to be welded anyway. While it can be saved with the right amount of time and attention, a replacement panel looks like it will be the better option. Beating the metal out will stretch it. Also, no matter how well the outside of the car is fixed using a combination of metal work and body filler, when looking at the metal from the inside of the trunk, it will show its scars. With a replacement panel, only as much as needed can be used, much of the factory seam welds can be used for a factory cut, and the areas where a make-shift welded cut is done can be grinded flat making the inside look much more tidy.
Fixing the original metal is not easier than replacing the panel. The outcome will not be better either. Depending on how bad the panel is, you will possibly have to cut the metal out anyway to straighten it so it can then be reattached, which is the same process you would go through to replace the panel minus the metal straightening. The only thing that would stop me from replacing the panel is the availability of a replacement panel.
While many will have opinions, you should rely on the opinions of professionals you trust who inspect the vehicle up close.
More, better pics will help, but it looks like the metal is ripped ... so it will have to be welded anyway. While it can be saved with the right amount of time and attention, a replacement panel looks like it will be the better option. Beating the metal out will stretch it. Also, no matter how well the outside of the car is fixed using a combination of metal work and body filler, when looking at the metal from the inside of the trunk, it will show its scars. With a replacement panel, only as much as needed can be used, much of the factory seam welds can be used for a factory cut, and the areas where a make-shift welded cut is done can be grinded flat making the inside look much more tidy.
Fixing the original metal is not easier than replacing the panel. The outcome will not be better either. Depending on how bad the panel is, you will possibly have to cut the metal out anyway to straighten it so it can then be reattached, which is the same process you would go through to replace the panel minus the metal straightening. The only thing that would stop me from replacing the panel is the availability of a replacement panel.
While many will have opinions, you should rely on the opinions of professionals you trust who inspect the vehicle up close.
tomcolitt
(deceased)
I have a lot of experience with repairing accident damage on vintage cars. Unless the right quarter panel has already been replaced or has had extensive rust repair done to it or replacing the whole panel would give you access to previously hard to reach areas in the sill, I would think twice about replacing the complete original panel when you could just section in the rear corner. It's nice to have factory welds and spot welds on the rear panel/ reinforcement panels, trunk floor and sills/ b-pillar, even if you never see the welds. It's only original once.
It looks like the paint/ bondo material on that rear panel was already fairly thick?.... On second thought, a European car likely has already had extensive rust repair work, so it might just be a matter of repeating the work that had previously already been done. In that case, adding extra sections within the rear panel isn't really necessary or much of a cost savings... Here in Southern California we tend to sometimes get very obsessed with original panels and welds because they are often still in very good condition after all these years and it is worth preserving or restoring them. In other parts of the world completely replacing a complete panel to eliminate various problems all at once, might be worthwhile. (Like, rust in the trunk floor to quarter/ rear panel seam. Previous damage to the lower rear panel. Rust in the wheel arch.) As long as the repair is done well, possibly even with a spot welding machine, if that kind of "originality" is still important to you... I'm not sure that even the slightly thicker sheet metal of the CS panel vs the CSL panel is that big of an issue in this case...
Tom
ClassicAutosLA
It looks like the paint/ bondo material on that rear panel was already fairly thick?.... On second thought, a European car likely has already had extensive rust repair work, so it might just be a matter of repeating the work that had previously already been done. In that case, adding extra sections within the rear panel isn't really necessary or much of a cost savings... Here in Southern California we tend to sometimes get very obsessed with original panels and welds because they are often still in very good condition after all these years and it is worth preserving or restoring them. In other parts of the world completely replacing a complete panel to eliminate various problems all at once, might be worthwhile. (Like, rust in the trunk floor to quarter/ rear panel seam. Previous damage to the lower rear panel. Rust in the wheel arch.) As long as the repair is done well, possibly even with a spot welding machine, if that kind of "originality" is still important to you... I'm not sure that even the slightly thicker sheet metal of the CS panel vs the CSL panel is that big of an issue in this case...
Tom
ClassicAutosLA
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So sorry to see that - I would take it to a few of the garages - how about Lance McCormack of Romance of Rust i think? I do echo others here though - why not the shop that did the resto?
Regards,
Rohan
Regards,
Rohan
John Buchtenkirch
Well-Known Member
“Piece of cake” repair & believe me there are much worse places for a uni-body car to get hit…… from someone with 40+ years in the collision & sheet metal trades. I’d change the quarter or section it above the rear wheel depending on the condition of the rest of the quarter. If you butt weld and planish welds flat when sectioning panels it’s extremely rare that a ghost of the repair will ever show thru the paint work at a later date. There is a used ¼ panel on eBay right now http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-E9-3-0-cs-2800-Rear-right-or-left-quarter-panel-/201084118393?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed18c2579&vxp=mtr
but I’m thinking they are still available new ?
Yikes, there does appear to be a bunch of plastic (what some people call Bondo) above that tail-light but a photo can fool you sometimes, post more photos for a more accurate assessment. It really could be a lot worse. ~ John Buchtenkirch
but I’m thinking they are still available new ?
Yikes, there does appear to be a bunch of plastic (what some people call Bondo) above that tail-light but a photo can fool you sometimes, post more photos for a more accurate assessment. It really could be a lot worse. ~ John Buchtenkirch
Wow, and I thought medical doctors were notorious for having different diagnosis for the same symptoms...
The lack of consensus is so troubling that I will try not to get hit until it is settled.
Good luck with the repair!
The lack of consensus is so troubling that I will try not to get hit until it is settled.
Good luck with the repair!
Gernstetter
Well-Known Member
I would question the folks that did the restoration about their liberal use of plastic filler, if that is what is revealed....take lots of photos....and get several opinions before you choose a shop....there is a world of difference when it comes to body work.....and good luck....FYI TO ALL, replace your brake light bulbs with LED bulbs!!!!!
Wondering as well
I could not critique bodywork- something I would love to learn but I rely on friends who are in the trade. Would someone chime in about the use of filler on this particular car as I am wondering if this is typical, possibly due to years of twisting and bumping, or was there possibly a short cut taken, the car seems like a real beauty and no mater how much I try to "sport" mine up- it will never be an CSL
I could not critique bodywork- something I would love to learn but I rely on friends who are in the trade. Would someone chime in about the use of filler on this particular car as I am wondering if this is typical, possibly due to years of twisting and bumping, or was there possibly a short cut taken, the car seems like a real beauty and no mater how much I try to "sport" mine up- it will never be an CSL
I'd be very surprised if the quarter isn't buckled at the base of the rear pillar/wheel arch. I'm biased because of 2002's, but it usually doesn't take much to mess up the body line...
Taiga is my all-time fav color for bimmers!
Sorry for your misfortune.
Sorry for your misfortune.