I tried to replace my CV joints today but the allen head bolts don't seem to have been touched in 40 yrs. Even my impact wrench couldn't get them to budge. I'm afraid of stripping the head if I'm not careful, but they ain't movin'. Any suggestions ?
CV Joint Removal
- Thread starter David
- Start date
Have you soaked them in penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench? I did mine overnight before cranking with the impact wrench
the heads of the axle bolts ar bad about getting filled up with dirt, grease, etc., so first step is to get that stuff out with a very small screwdriver or pick , you need to get that crud out so the head of the allen bit goes deep in to the fastner , if a impact gun wont bust it loose then you will have to lock the wheel , the axel in place and use a long handle rachet or breaker bar
hopefully they will break free before it strip's out , I have been unlucky and had to use an air hammer with a chisel bit to turn them out , that turns into a long day
good luck
and like the other guy said soak them , I like PB blaster my self
hopefully they will break free before it strip's out , I have been unlucky and had to use an air hammer with a chisel bit to turn them out , that turns into a long day
good luck
and like the other guy said soak them , I like PB blaster my self
I did clean out the heads of the bolts so I could get the wrench in. They were packed solid with crud. I tried both an impact wrench and a ~18" socket wrench handle. No dice.
I didn't think penetrating oil would be effective because I can't really get to the thread side of the bolt.
I think I may take it to Carl Nelson to loosen them all up for me. I just know Ill strip them and then be in a world of hurt.
I didn't think penetrating oil would be effective because I can't really get to the thread side of the bolt.
I think I may take it to Carl Nelson to loosen them all up for me. I just know Ill strip them and then be in a world of hurt.
Clean the hex hole and fit the hex head in.
Now hit it hard with a hammer.
This makes sure the tool is all the way in and breaks the bolt loose.
Use a 1/2 breaker bar to loosen a bit and away you go.
Now hit it hard with a hammer.
This makes sure the tool is all the way in and breaks the bolt loose.
Use a 1/2 breaker bar to loosen a bit and away you go.
every car is a mistery, but mine worked well as others are saying, cleaning heads, plus penetrating oil, plus breaking my hands using hand tools only, btw you must loose the nut, not the bolt,
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13960&page=2
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13960&page=2
My '74 doesn't have nuts on the hex bolts. Another undocumented difference with the 74's I guess.
Pre-cleaning, hard to tell. What mess.
Post-cleaning
After the cleaning a got some penetrating oil in there. Ill let it soak overnight. I also picked up a bigger air gun (500 ft-lbs). Ill give it another shot tomorrow.
Pre-cleaning, hard to tell. What mess.
Post-cleaning
After the cleaning a got some penetrating oil in there. Ill let it soak overnight. I also picked up a bigger air gun (500 ft-lbs). Ill give it another shot tomorrow.
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3 generations out there-
1st gen is bolts and nuts with bolted on flanges
2nd gen is threaded flanges no nuts and bolted on flanges.
3rd gen is threaded flange and clips on flanges.
We call these early early, early and late.
Early and late have different bolt counts on the gears-
8 and 10.
1st gen is bolts and nuts with bolted on flanges
2nd gen is threaded flanges no nuts and bolted on flanges.
3rd gen is threaded flange and clips on flanges.
We call these early early, early and late.
Early and late have different bolt counts on the gears-
8 and 10.
Damn. These things will not budge even with 500 ft-lbs of force. I wonder if someone put loctite on them.
Air gun is not the answer. The lash in the gears reduces it to nothing.
Hand brake on and in 1st gear. Hit each bolt with a hammer on your hex tool and then
Use a 1/2" breaker bar.
Hand brake on and in 1st gear. Hit each bolt with a hammer on your hex tool and then
Use a 1/2" breaker bar.
waynesie
Well-Known Member
If they have loctite on them heat will help break them loose.
A pocket torch is best, but a regular torch will work too. Heat will also help expand the metal. Heat the flange.
You can also cycle hot and cold. The penetrating oil spray will cool it down and get into the right places.
Good luck.
A pocket torch is best, but a regular torch will work too. Heat will also help expand the metal. Heat the flange.
You can also cycle hot and cold. The penetrating oil spray will cool it down and get into the right places.
Good luck.
There is a guy in LA who is a world class diff puller. Send Chris Macha a pm for the info.
can you try an impact screwdriver fitted with an allen head ?
IMHO that would be the answer
IMHO that would be the answer
Bwana
Well-Known Member
My '74 doesn't have nuts on the hex bolts. Another undocumented difference with the 74's I guess.
Post-cleaning
After the cleaning a got some penetrating oil in there. Ill let it soak overnight. I also picked up a bigger air gun (500 ft-lbs). Ill give it another shot tomorrow.
Might that be a lock tab under the bolts? Maybe not stock but what you are describing is exactly what happened to me when I missed some lock tabs on some bolts (not e9 shafts) a long while back. I beat the heck out of the things until I discovered the lock tabs. Yes, the Allen heads are round but possibly there is another clever method of locking we all have missed.
Those are curved double-washers, 2 bolts go through each one, 3 per side. I think at this point it's the penetrating oil, heat and breaker bar ideas. For the world's tightest nut, the crank shaft nut, I used a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' pipe over that to bust it loose, might try something similar here.
you know what is an impact screwdriver ?
is a mechanical tool not an air compressed tool, you hit it with a hammer, it undo the head only some degrees, enough to unblock it
the best possible way for blocked bolts
Well, I took the car to Carl Nelson to have them loosen the bolts. They used the exact technique Don described. With the car on a lift it took both hands to crank on the bolts. No way I could have gotten that kind of leverage from under the car with my floor jack.
I pulled the first axle out today. I improvised with an old wall paper tray to hold the grimy mess. It worked pretty well to contain the mess:
I opened up the suspect outer boot to find this nice little surprise:
Not sure how that happened, but Im glad I got to it before I was broken down on the side of the road. Its amazing that the car still drove.
One question. Since this cage was destroyed, I took an angle grinder to cut it off and then used a gear puller to remove the remaining portion of the CV joint from the axle. But how do I get the other CV joint off the axle to just clean and re-pack it with grease ? The CV joint in the photo above did not want to slide off the axle by taping it with a wood block and hammer.
I pulled the first axle out today. I improvised with an old wall paper tray to hold the grimy mess. It worked pretty well to contain the mess:
I opened up the suspect outer boot to find this nice little surprise:
Not sure how that happened, but Im glad I got to it before I was broken down on the side of the road. Its amazing that the car still drove.
One question. Since this cage was destroyed, I took an angle grinder to cut it off and then used a gear puller to remove the remaining portion of the CV joint from the axle. But how do I get the other CV joint off the axle to just clean and re-pack it with grease ? The CV joint in the photo above did not want to slide off the axle by taping it with a wood block and hammer.
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After taking off the circlips, I used a bearing puller on both sides. Dont forget the direction of the cup washers on the shaft, and to replace them before pounding the rebuilt ones back on. AMHIK
Thanks. When I re-install the hex bolts, should I put anti-seize on them ? I want to be able to get them off in the future to change the gasket/seal on the output shaft of the differential.
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