Deleting exhaust emission control for 3.0L Zenith/Solex carburetor model??

vanbavaria

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I’ve been noticing a lot of other fellows don’t have the emission controls in there engine bay anymore and I’d like to delete if can be bacuse i feel its effecting my performance.

From the diagram I provided below i feel i can just delete the #10 advance solenoid and #7 retard solenoid and have vacuum directly hooked to the carburetor to distributor. Then i can also delete #15 #16 #6 and #5

after i feel i can just delete the whole EGR system and plug where necessary.

has anybody else done this and is it a good idea?

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Stevehose

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Yes you can delete everything and cap the exhaust egr port in the rear exhaust manifold and cap everything else off at the carbs and manifolds. Do not use vacuum retard, only vacuum advance.
 

vanbavaria

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Yes you can delete everything and cap the exhaust egr port in the rear exhaust manifold and cap everything else off at the carbs and manifolds. Do not use vacuum retard, only vacuum advance.

right so I’d cap off vacuum retard for the distributor and only keep advance?
 

Stevehose

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Yes, make sure the advance is connected to the vaccum source at the carb which is above the level of the throttle plate ("ported vacuum"), not below it ("manifold vacuum").
 

HB Chris

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Do you have wires connected to solenoids 7 and 10? If not they aren’t active anyway. And 5 runs off of retard and only slows throttle closing so it doesn’t affect performance.
 

vanbavaria

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Do you have wires connected to solenoids 7 and 10? If not they aren’t active anyway. And 5 runs off of retard and only slows throttle closing so it doesn’t affect performance.

Yeah the electrical is still all hooked up. I haven’t done a test to see if the solenoids still actuate. I’d rather just get rid of it all if it’s not really needed. This was all for the American emission control market right.
 

vanbavaria

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Let me know if you take off the solenoids and are going to throw them away, I will take them for a little project that I am working on I am in Port Moody

Thanks, Rick

One thing I’ve learned about being a bavaria owner is not throwing anything away:oops: I might even have spares in a box somewhere so when I do this job I’ll keep you in mind Rick. Cheers.
 

CSBM5

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This topic brings back a lot of memories and my father's main complaint about the Bavaria he purchased in April 1972 (I was 13 at the time). I still have a copy of the detailed letter he wrote to Max Hoffman about the stumbling/surging issue somewhere around the rpms experienced in 4th gear at about 60mph. He wanted the car to run smoothly and properly, and it didn't as delivered. It was completely due to the ignition retard/advance setup from what I recall.

He had the car back at the dealer multiple times with no success in them solving the stumbling/surging around that rpm and throttle openings. This was the old Continental Motors in Stamford CT which was located adjacent to I-95. On one trip I was with him, and service manager was going to work with him to "solve" his complaints (I assume after the Hoffman letter). The foreman took it out for a drive, and we hear and see him go flying by on I-95 easily over 100mph. He comes back and said that he has "cleaned out" the engine taking it to near 6k rpms in 4th gear for a few miles. Of course it did nothing for the underlying issue as dad found out shortly after we left.

Fast forward to 1974, and in Atlanta at Global Imports there he met a great mechanic who listened to his complaints numerous times, and then on one occasion the car came out running perfectly. He told my father he'll probably like it much better now, but as far as anyone knows, he didn't do a thing to the car. :) So after about 2.5 years, the issue was now magically gone.
 

billpatterson

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Yes, make sure the advance is connected to the vaccum source at the carb which is above the level of the throttle plate ("ported vacuum"), not below it ("manifold vacuum").

There are several posts and an experiment by Dick Steinkamp showing the benefits of running vacuum off the manifold (cooler, no more stumbling, needed to turn down the throttle).

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/m30-vacuum-advance-retard.36076/ . Caveat: running Weber 32/36s though maybe true for Zeniths too. Shrug.

Regards,
Bill
 

Stevehose

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Yes I've experimented with running my advance on manifold vacuum. If you want full advance at idle you can, and it will make it idle higher (and theoretically cooler) than without. Once you press the accelerator the vacuum will drop off as will the corresponding advance. At cruise where the fuel economy from advance comes into play, both ported and advanced will be the same. So if your engine doesn't hesitate off-idle from the sudden drop in advance then it's fine to do so. The vacuum advance will be higher at idle than the cruise advance. Too much advance at idle will cause problems.
 
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