DIY front strut spacer removal

Stevehose

Stevehose

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Is it possible to remove the headlight/bumper DOT strut spacers without a spring compressor or other special tools? What would the process be - I just want the spacers out, put shorter bolts in, and replace. Is this possible in a home garage or should it go to the shop because it has danger Will Robinson written all over it??
 
The bearing plate at the top of the strut will hold the spring in place while you remove the spacer. Most people move the spacer to the top of the fenderwell so you don't need to cut the studs.
 
I'd prefer to keep the stock look on top, are the studs removable/replaceable only by removing the entire strut assembly from the car?
 
With the wheel removed, jack up the ball joint to compress the spring, attach spring compressors to hold the tightened spring, remove three nuts from top and it should drop down enough to remove the spacer. Removing sway bar link sometimes helps. Studs can be tapped out but only if removed from car and it's in a vise (my experience). Don't count on the studs being interchangeable though, it depends on the brand of strut bearing, better to just replace the bearing. Studs can be cut with a grinder or on 2002s, they can be ordered with short or long studs, don't know about coupes though. Mesa Performance would know.
 
Regarding the stud length, I reinstalled the the 3 studs and finger tightened them, then laid a mechanics tarp around the area and cut the tops of the studs off with a grinder/cut off wheel. Then I smoothed the tops of the freshly cut studs slightly with a hand file and then removed the nuts thereby re-aligning the threads. Last I installed stainless acorn style nuts with new lock washers and tightened them down.
Pics available if interested.
 
Let me get this straight - after removing the spacer you reinstalled the strut, the now "longer" studs coming up through the fender holes. You installed some nuts (not acorn ones), cut off the portion that stuck through, filed them smooth, then removed the nuts thus straightening the cut threads. Then new acorns on top finished it off, correct? Did you have to compress the spring as Chris mentions?


Buffarea said:
Regarding the stud length, I reinstalled the the 3 studs and finger tightened them, then laid a mechanics tarp around the area and cut the tops of the studs off with a grinder/cut off wheel. Then I smoothed the tops of the freshly cut studs slightly with a hand file and then removed the nuts thereby re-aligning the threads. Last I installed stainless acorn style nuts with new lock washers and tightened them down.
Pics available if interested.
Click to expand...
 
Harbor Freight has cheap spring compressors which work fine. The strut is way up there, don't think you can swing it out without compressing it. I did the same as Buff on my 02, installed nut, ground off excess length, removed nut, installed correct washer and nut.
 
Yep, that is what I used. The key is to compress the spring with your floor jack, slip them on and release jack slowly. That way you aren't fighting trying to tighten them on the spring, not much room for that. More expensive ones might make that a bit easier but you will use these once every ten years maybe.
 
spacer removal

Springs do not need to be compressed.

Think about it for a second, the spring rests against the flange
below the top strut bearing, a large nut holds the hydraulic damper
on to the bearing flange. If you remove the large nut on top of the
strut the assembly will disassemble, then you have a problem.

Raise the car with the wheel and suspension assembly free, remove the three
13mm (IIRC) bolts, lower the strut assembly, you may have to stand on it to
lower it far enough to get enough space between the tops of the lugs and the
underside of the fender, remove the spacer and re assemble, IIRC the three
studs and holes do not make an isosceles triangle so they only go on one way.

I didn't compress them when I removed them 20 years ago.
 
Compressing the spring gives you more room to swing the strut top out of the tower. The control arm doesn't want to drop easily, especially if the sway bar link is still attached. Your results may differ from mine.
 
Even if you compress the spring, the strut doesn't compress along with it, the spring is not secured to the top spring perch and the strut itself doesn't compress along with the spring. The spring will just separate from the upper spring perch.

You should have just enough room to remove the spacer.
 
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