Doing it better 74 3.0 CS second chance

Peter Coomaraswamy

Peter Coomaraswamy

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,789
Reaction score
903
Location
Austin, TX
I wanted to start another rambling thread on the second rebuilding of my first coupe which I am beginning now. When I first joined this forum in 2011 I was greeted warmly by most and a little disdainfully by others; (remember my first thought was to put an aluminum V8 in the e9). Anyhow, I have learned so much from all of you I have decided to fix and enhance to the best of my ability my little "Magnus".

Although I'm starting with the engine, I will be removing so many things that I should be able to do a pretty good build as I walk through the process, which will include everything from glass and dashboard removal to frame (uni-body) strengthening and suspension and brake work.

I have only about 7K miles on the car since the rebuild (maybe a little more) and I took short-cuts that are not really acceptable, like minor oil leaks, poor exhaust tone, bad headliner, noisy gearbox etc and of course lackluster off the line performance.

There were a few things done correctly but I can't think of them off hand. I will have tons of not so intelligent questions so please help me and answer with kindness remembering that as the second child I received many less beatings than my siblings and as a result my mental faculties were allowed to wonder aimlessly and not become disciplined in the art of logical (or even coherent) thinking.

Below is the starting point:
 

Attachments

  • engine.jpg
    engine.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 192
  • engine1.jpg
    engine1.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 183
  • engine2.jpg
    engine2.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 178
  • engine3.jpg
    engine3.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 178
  • engine4.jpg
    engine4.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 178
Higher compression pistons (Ross Racing), I think 10:1 compression, working with SF don to try to drag about 240-260 hp out of the engine
 
Dumb questions commence; I'm getting ready to put the head on the engine and I think everything is supposed to be at TDC, so here is the HB with the timing marks, does this look correct?

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • engine6.jpg
    engine6.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 138
  • engine5.jpg
    engine5.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 148
Yes, that would be correct.
If you want to find the absolute accurate TDC there is a simple procedure with the head off.
You probably need a degree wheel to do this though. If you plan any changes from stock in the cam timing then you would need to degree the cam.
What cam are you using?
 
Hi Gary, I have a Shrick cam (forgot the number) that I got from W&N through SF Don and he assembled the head and sent it to me. Also, missing the dowels or guide tubes to properly align the head to the deck, how many do I need and where do I get them?

Thanks
 
Autohaus AZ has them as does BMW.

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/11111743118

Be careful installing the head (get it lined up perfectly before lowering it onto the dowels to minimize scratching the head. An assistant is helpful (critical) for this.

Peter Coomaraswamy said:
Hi Gary, I have a Shrick cam (forgot the number) that I got from W&N through SF Don and he assembled the head and sent it to me. Also, missing the dowels or guide tubes to properly align the head to the deck, how many do I need and where do I get them?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
I guess that you are going to check VP clearance? What thickness of head gasket are you using? Just things to ponder. At this point I would get a degree wheel and really get absolute TDC. You can always elongate the cam gear holes for a little cam degreeing. It's fun and gives you a whole bunch more work to do. In your picture, the pulley is not quite lined up, just saying

Thanks, Rick
 
Thanks Rick, all my engine rebuilding experience is on V8 Fords and there isn't much to them so I need all the help I can get!
 
Before I start pressing out little pieces of clay to measure the clearance inside the chamber I thought i would present a couple pictures and please speak up if something looks wrong, for example the seemingly larger valve cut away in the pistons look to be on the exhaust side while the intake side has the larger diameter valves? Thanks for looking -
 

Attachments

  • engine7.jpg
    engine7.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 174
  • engine8.jpg
    engine8.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 166
  • engine9.jpg
    engine9.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 170
So.... crapola! the people who put the engine together put the pistons in 180 degrees off, I have a feeling this is going to be a long drawn-out battle- total bummer
 
Yes, I was thinking the same thing. A friend suggested that I take it back to the shop that assembled it but I think I will put as much distance as possible between myself and them and just do it myself. I find it absolutely incredible that an idiot like myself actually knows more about engine assembly than people who do this for a living- well, at least it's not by-pass surgery.
 
Another question regarding door cards, I had custom leather cards made up but the material the guy used for the "card" is thick and heavy, it's like a dense plastic. If I want to make my own cards is there a preferred material to use?

I figure I should get started on some other parts of the car as I wait to decide what I'm going to do with my short block.

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top