Dual Carbs

Rangertom50

Active Member
Messages
55
Reaction score
3
I have brand-new Webbers in my E9. However, I'm having a small problem with the choke. It either has a low idel from a cold start or too high an idle. Really a frustrating problem. Any e9 secrets to solve this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The 32/36's are pretty amazing when you start to tune them. They really respond to just a few adjustments, synching, etc.

Sounds like you need to check that your chokes are closing equally and all the way, then adjust the fast idle screws.

http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf

I am sure there are better guides on the web but that one will get you started.
 
Do you have electric chokes or water chokes?

Have you looked into the throat of the carbs to ensure the throttle plates are in sync?
 
It either has a low idel from a cold start or too high an idle. Really a frustrating problem. Any e9 secrets to solve this

Mechanical chokes. Work like a champ.

22680.005-2.jpg
 
Thank you. I'll get back with you guys as soon as I talk to my mechanic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I hadn't had the chokes on my car hooked up, and I recently removed them and sealed off the opening in order to ensure they did not influence the operation of the carbs when not in use.

So, another option is to do away with them entirely. It really doesn't get that cold here.
 
I'll look into doing that. Thanks Chris. The truth my e9 is strictly a spring, summer and fall car


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So the rod/link that's right at my gas pedal was replaced recently. The original one on the right has a chamber that holds some kind of spring. It was replaces with the one on the left. The pedal is really stiff now and jerky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So the rod/link that's right at my gas pedal was replaced recently. The original one on the right has a chamber that holds some kind of spring. It was replaces with the one on the left. The pedal is really stiff now and jerky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The one on right is originally from an automatic, they need to be exact same length and you need to use the same pin on the bellcrank mounted to the motor mount. Either will work and both should be straight unless you have a b35 then a slight bend is needed.
 
Would using different rods account for the stiffness on the pedal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No. Does your bellcrank have a coiled spring to help with return to idle position? Sounds like your issue may be in how the linkages connect to your Webers, I didn't notice that you weren't using the Zeniths.
 
Back
Top