E3 Hood needed

T

tmh

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I am still looking for a decent hood if anyone has one or knows of one. I am looking into the hood on the parts car in Seattle that was just posted on the forum. My hood has significant rust along the front edge.

T.M. Hayes
 
tmh said:
I am still looking for a decent hood if anyone has one or knows of one. I am looking into the hood on the parts car in Seattle that was just posted on the forum. My hood has significant rust along the front edge.

T.M. Hayes
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@tmh,

Definitely reach out to @Bavman. Shipping will be a song relative to seattle. Al is in the Carolinas IIRC.

Best reached via email:
[email protected]
 
Available to someone in need, surface rust and spot on top, donation to the site and pay shipping and packaging from 87401
 

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tmh said:
I am still looking for a decent hood if anyone has one or knows of one. I am looking into the hood on the parts car in Seattle that was just posted on the forum. My hood has significant rust along the front edge.

T.M. Hayes
Click to expand...
I finally found a reasonably good hood. It took 2+ years to find one. By the time I get it stripped down, cleaned up, and painted it will be a $1200-$1500 hood. If only I had addressed the rust on my existing hood when it initially appeared.

There is a guy outside of Dallas that has a few E3's and an accumulation of parts. E3's are becoming relatively rare.
 
Well then, be proactive on the new hood. These things are so poorly designed with that front, folded seem. I sprayed "Fluid Film" in all the crevices in mine.
 
The folded seams are a concern long-term. Is Fluid Film a premier rust neutralizing product?
 
Basically lanolin embedded in fine wool fibers, comes in a spray can. Does not neutralize, it is preventative.
 
Is their a chemical corrosion neutralizing product that can penetrate the folded seam in the event of hidden cancer?
 
There are plenty but do they really work? Go on the Eastwood website and look around.
 
Since zinc chromate is so hard to find now ("banned"), I like fish oil-based rustoleum rusty metal primer (the red-brown stuff) for small spots I can hand finish.

I tend to use POR-15 a lot, it also claims "conversion" and it is thin enough that it can be used to penetrate seams, it does dry awfully damn hard though. That means cleanup on your visible painted surfaces before it dries is imperative. I don't know if it is "better" than that greenish yellow zinc chromate of old. I've only used it for 15 or 18 years, but so far so good!
 
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