E9 gauges
- Thread starter Pflyer
- Start date
its not that difficult to remove, but maybe that is because i've done it a few times. while it is possible to remove individual instruments the speedo and clock are probably the most difficult to remove on its own, due to its location - the console and the steering column tend to get in the way. you can pull the wooden panel out the front, which is perhaps the easiest way, but i find it easier if you remove the steering wheel.
to remove the entire cluster, you need to loosen the nuts (under the dash) on either side of the dash instrument surround - don't remove it, just loosen the nuts. you have to then loosen the cluster wood panel (its been a while so i forget what you have to do). then push the cluster forward on one side so you can then access the speedo cable and unplug the cluster wiring plug (on top of the steering column). once removed its easy to remove the wiring (mark where they go) and pull the light bulbs out and unscrew the gauge fasteners. then you can send the gauges off to get them cleaned and working - have the speedo gear replaced while they are in there. there are several places listed in the FAQ - Best Sources
you might also check the speedo cable ... but i suspect its more of the instrument itself
to remove the entire cluster, you need to loosen the nuts (under the dash) on either side of the dash instrument surround - don't remove it, just loosen the nuts. you have to then loosen the cluster wood panel (its been a while so i forget what you have to do). then push the cluster forward on one side so you can then access the speedo cable and unplug the cluster wiring plug (on top of the steering column). once removed its easy to remove the wiring (mark where they go) and pull the light bulbs out and unscrew the gauge fasteners. then you can send the gauges off to get them cleaned and working - have the speedo gear replaced while they are in there. there are several places listed in the FAQ - Best Sources
you might also check the speedo cable ... but i suspect its more of the instrument itself
The binnacle is screwed to the dash pad (screws visible in photo below) and then held to the car with two long bolts (blue arrows) and 10mm nuts through the metal dash, reachable from behind, as well as two screws (yellow arrows) through the bottom of the metal dash floor and into the "ears" of the binnacle. The holes in the dash are slotted, allowing upward movement if you loosen the nuts and also remove the screws. I think you'd have to pop a couple of the dash pad clips (either side of the defroster vents) to get it to move up much but I am always scared messing with the dash pad and vents. Careful of the ends. All very brittle.
The wood panel is held in with two 10mm nuts on long studs with spacers that go through tabs in the metal dash (green arrows), reachable in back. Ignore my custom LCD display in place of tach. Two electrical connectors (orange arrows, 9 and 6 pin), and the speedo and odo cables. This is actually easy to remove once the binnacle is out of the way.
Removing a single instrument, whether on the bench or in the car, is two knurled nuts that need to be loosened (they have 8mm hex on end if tight) then the gauge rotates slightly to release tabs from under nuts. There are cardboard circular gaskets around each gauge that tend to stick and break. I 3d printed replacements in flexible clear TPU. The clock is relatively easy to remove in situ as it is easiest to reach and only has power, ground and one bulb. The speedo a bit harder, with two cables and three bulbs and steering column in the way. The fuel/temp very difficult with all the wiring. and bulbs. All bulb sockets just pull out with friction fit.
Good luck.
The wood panel is held in with two 10mm nuts on long studs with spacers that go through tabs in the metal dash (green arrows), reachable in back. Ignore my custom LCD display in place of tach. Two electrical connectors (orange arrows, 9 and 6 pin), and the speedo and odo cables. This is actually easy to remove once the binnacle is out of the way.
Removing a single instrument, whether on the bench or in the car, is two knurled nuts that need to be loosened (they have 8mm hex on end if tight) then the gauge rotates slightly to release tabs from under nuts. There are cardboard circular gaskets around each gauge that tend to stick and break. I 3d printed replacements in flexible clear TPU. The clock is relatively easy to remove in situ as it is easiest to reach and only has power, ground and one bulb. The speedo a bit harder, with two cables and three bulbs and steering column in the way. The fuel/temp very difficult with all the wiring. and bulbs. All bulb sockets just pull out with friction fit.
Good luck.
you do NOT need to remove the 'binnacle', you need to loosen it from the base. the only way to remove the binnacle is to unscrew it from the upper dash pad (from the back side) ... which means remove it. to put the upper pad back in, its very difficult to do with the windshield in place. i only loosened the binnacle from the base. the nuts on the above picture (green arrows) have to be undone - the outer one (near the door) is easy to get to. the inner one is more difficult, but if you are patient you can find it.
For the speedo, once loosened and can pull away from the fascia, rotate it 180 degrees so the face points away from you then use your mojo to work it down through the mess of wires and metal framing. It can be done.
Zaprace
New Member
Useful info, I have spare instrument clusters and dials if anyone requires.
Car is in the shop, but I may need a Speedo.