E9 speedometer drive gear

Made it... took it out.
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It has been opened in the past for sure. Bronze busing is missing and end part as well:
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mine:
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as to this, in my opinion there are at least two versions, i do have one speedo like yours, without bronze bushing, see photos

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hi
how did you removed them from the car ?
did you removed the black dash binacle over the instrument cluster ?
did you forwarded the instrument cluster ?
or did you simply removed it from the back ?
did you removed any specific cables ? or other elements ?

I removed fuel/temp gauge first - easy to access nuts and to push back... I didn’t disconnect nothing just removed it so I had more maneuvering space to remove speedometer gauge. I disconnected everything that is connected than removed it. When I managed to come to nut on the right I loosen it, than twisted gauge a bit and it went backwards. Then I spent 1 h trying to find the path down and out... wasn’t able to do it so I read through @Willem Tell instructions again and realize I have to loosen nuts that hold the instrument cluster housing to lift it a bit and maneuver the way out easily than.
 
as to this, in my opinion there are at least two versions, i do have one speedo like yours, without bronze bushing, see photos

View attachment 89014
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That is good so I am not missing anything. Also I realize I don’t have plastic odometer drive gear but brass one.

Anyway I take it apart as shown here in the video
and put back together and now it works... Only I am sorry I didn’t lube anything or use the loctite as suggested in video.

I tested it out with drilling machine and then also in a car I lifted rear tires and put in gear... it works but I don’t know for how long since I didn’t really do anything and I really don’t want to go over this procedure again anytime soon.

 
RTHLSS1, I think you're OK. You don't have to do anything more than get the metal disc rotating in the cup at the correct depth and get the tiny needle centered in the hole for the speedometer needle to deflect correctly. The slight needle bounce that you see will likely smooth out as you drive the car.

@deQuincey, Michael Thompson's speedo-clock removal write-up is the doc you need to read to know how to lift the instrument binnacle up and get the gauges out.
 

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  • Speedometer Repair 1972-1976 _ BMW 2002 Restoration.pdf
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  • Speedometer_Clock_Removal (E9).pdf
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  • Speedometer_Gauges_Removal_Tom.pdf
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That is good so I am not missing anything. Also I realize I don’t have plastic odometer drive gear but brass one.

Anyway I take it apart as shown here in the video
and put back together and now it works... Only I am sorry I didn’t lube anything or use the loctite as suggested in video.

I tested it out with drilling machine and then also in a car I lifted rear tires and put in gear... it works but I don’t know for how long since I didn’t really do anything and I really don’t want to go over this procedure again anytime soon.


i had the same feeling, but i think that is not the one, check this...

this is an exploded view



this one is the plastic one






a bit of grease









be supercareful when introducing the tiny pin on its holder









the steel ring goes after insrting the rod



 
RTHLSS1, I think you're OK. You don't have to do anything more than get the metal disc rotating in the cup at the correct depth and get the tiny needle centered in the hole for the speedometer needle to deflect correctly. The slight needle bounce that you see will likely smooth out as you drive the car.

@deQuincey, Michael Thompson's speedo-clock removal write-up is the doc you need to read to know how to lift the instrument binnacle up and get the gauges out.
thank you willem
 
I waited to get plastic odometer gear and speedo bulbs delivered and replace them before i put speedo back in the car.

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Before I tested it out with old speedo cable and there was some erratic needle idle but now when speedo is back in the car I have a lot of noisy erratic idle. From 40-60km/h is very erratic than it becomes stable up to 110-120 km/h where it gets erratic again


Is it possible that is from new speedo cable which I didn’t lube or it just wishful thinking and I have to take speedo apart again?
 
The speed function is driven by magnets, the odometer is driven by gears and is separate I have been told. One can be accurate and the other not and they can be off by differing percentages.
 
The first thing I would do is drive it more. As I mentioned, the bounce may smooth out as the little needle pin centers itself in the rotating metal disk (my experience).
If it doesn't smooth out:
One thing I would try (if it's possible), is disconnect your speedo cable at the tranny and try to get the cable as straight as possible under the motor and drive it with a drill as you have before (with someone watching the speedo, or vice versa). My theory is that if you can manage to do this, the cable should not be twisting so much inside the jacket. If the needle doesn't bounce, it's the cable twist. If the needle is still bouncing, it's the speedo magnet/needle alignment at fault, not the cable.
Unfortunately, if the needle still hops, that would mean pulling the speedo again. If you pull it, I recommend to use the short odometer cable to drive the speedo. (I put the cable through a narrow cardboard tube to keep it straight while spinning. If it hops with the short cable driving it, you know that you have to open the speedo can again.
 
Thanks for advice @Willem Tell

I disconnected cabel both at speedometer and tranny and the noise was heard when I drive it with drill. So I pulled out new speedo cabel and replace it with old one.
Went for a drive there is very minor bounce and no noise so hopefully it will stay this way.
 
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