Engine dies when brake pedal pressed

The problem has stopped. But not because I found anything definitive, I diconnected the rear brake light wires and the fuse doesn't blow.

Another win for the problem solver from Cupertino! Imagine what I could do if I actually saw the cars in question...
 
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since the car was running soley on alternator power when exhibited the dying symptom, there wasn't enough amperage to blow the fuse but the current draw drained the ignition system somehow.

I suppose the short caused the voltage to drop sufficiently to weaken the spark and kill the engine. But I would expect an alternator to put out enough amperage to blow an automotive fuse without much voltage drop. I wonder if your alternator is operating properly.

What color is the 100 amp fuse? Black?

If you are installing 100a fuses, you better have a fire extinguisher close at hand! I think you meant "What color is the 10 amp fuse?"

rsporsche said:
1st - check all of the grounds

Improving ground connections is a good step when not enough current is flowing; e.g., the lights are too dim. But Stevehose has the opposite problem; too much current is flowing, as evidenced by the fuse blowing. It won't hurt to improve the ground connections, but Stevehose's problem won't get solved until he finds the short on the + side of the brake bulbs.

Stevehose said:
The problem has stopped. But not because I found anything definitive, I diconnected the rear brake light wires and the fuse doesn't blow. Then I reconnected the tail lights one by one, no problems. So perhaps by moving the wire harness or something...

I hope it stays fixed, but don't be surprised if the fuse blows again. At least this exercise narrowed down the problem to the brake light bulb sockets.
 
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Ok so I got into this today and discovered the left tail light harness had melted some time in the past. Pulled it all apart and taped up all the bare wires and then retaped the harness and all seems well.
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wow ... that was a pretty ugly mess. might want to suggest that you get a bunch of heat shrink and wrap each wire up more permanently.

i presume that the brake lights now work without blowing fuses now.
 
Yes, nasty. Brake lights work, hopefully problem solved.

wow ... that was a pretty ugly mess. might want to suggest that you get a bunch of heat shrink and wrap each wire up more permanently.

i presume that the brake lights now work without blowing fuses now.
 
Ok so I got into this today and discovered the left tail light harness had melted some time in the past.

Well, that explains the source of your problem.

Now I can retract the prediction I had made in post #22 ("don't be surprised if the fuse blows again") - looks like you've got it solved!
 
I wonder if your buddy used the same stereo installer my prior owner used. That mess looks rather familiar.

Glad you found it.
 
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