engine rear insulating material

[deQuincey]

hi
there is an insulating mat on top of the rear side on engine compartment

after 40 years it is almost disintegrated and not only the appearance is bad, but also any work inside the engine, affecting that area will mean a sort of "sand" falling over all your neat jobs

so fed up with this, i decided to stop it installing a new part:

remove, it breaks easily

bmw reference

it is an exact part, auto adhesive

metal brush and steel wool with gasoline to remove fragments, and prepare surface

 

[61porsche]

Looks nice. Mind if I inquire as to the cost of the part?

 

[deQuincey]

Looks nice. Mind if I inquire as to the cost of the part?

not at all
very expensive my friend, 140 Eur:evil:

 

[61porsche]

Thank you.

Roughly $200 USD. I had understood there was or has been some price reductions on BMW rubber parts similar to door seals which seem to have come down in price by 20%.

How thick is the material for us industrious types who may venture on to replicate the part?

Lastly, on another note of your former projects.... did you notice a difference with the new head/ valves? I am debating with myself of a similar problem and how best to achieve the desired result or just buy a 3.5.

 

[x_atlas0]

My original (at least, that's how I got the car) insulation looks different from that. Mine had a metallic outer coating, so it looks kinda like those old sun screens people put in their windshield to keep the temp down in their car when it is sitting outside. It must be aftermarket.

 

[sfdon]

I installed both pieces this year- cost was about 500 bucks from the dealer

04 Sound insulation 1 51481810724 $270.65
06 SOUND INSULATING DASH PANEL 51481811933 $205.24

I suggest looking at Coupekings rendition - available at a major discount and very nice quality.

 

[deQuincey]

Thank you.

Roughly $200 USD. I had understood there was or has been some price reductions on BMW rubber parts similar to door seals which seem to have come down in price by 20%.
no idea, to tell the truth i got it from w&n some months ago

How thick is the material for us industrious types who may venture on to replicate the part?
i am afraid to tell that it has variable thickness, from, lets say 2cm to 0,5cm

Lastly, on another note of your former projects.... did you notice a difference with the new head/ valves? I am debating with myself of a similar problem and how best to achieve the desired result or just buy a 3.5.
sorry to say, i might be losing the meaning of your question, (plainly: i do not understand), but i am willing to help, please tell me...

grüssen

 

[deQuincey]

My original (at least, that's how I got the car) insulation looks different from that. Mine had a metallic outer coating, so it looks kinda like those old sun screens people put in their windshield to keep the temp down in their car when it is sitting outside. It must be aftermarket.

hi,

i understand what you say, yeah, that metallic foil (probably aluminium)

what i can tell is that the replacement part is exactly the same in shape and material as the original installed one (you can tell from the photo, also)

regards

 

[Stevehose]

Penske lists these for $184.03 and $134.42 respectively, how much are CK's?

I installed both pieces this year- cost was about 500 bucks from the dealer

04 Sound insulation 1 51481810724 $270.65
06 SOUND INSULATING DASH PANEL 51481811933 $205.24

I suggest looking at Coupekings rendition - available at a major discount and very nice quality.

 

[HB Chris]

I think the lower piece with the aluminum cover is NLA and the xxxx933 part is in the interior perhaps.

 

[vince]

Looks nice. Mind if I inquire as to the cost of the part?

I just replaced mine.

I bought it from Carl for $185.00. He had it in stock.

 

[deQuincey]

final aspect installed

 

[Stevehose]

Looks nice - what did you have to remove in order to get access to the back wall for removal/refitting of the piece? And how do you get/keep your engine so clean????

 

[deQuincey]

Looks nice - what did you have to remove in order to get access to the back wall for removal/refitting of the piece? And how do you get/keep your engine so clean????

hi steve

this part can be removed without problems with normal access, no access from the rear is needed

the part hangs from the top sheet metal flange in three points, and then is autoadhesive

the process is:
1-remove a little of the paper in the top area
2-hang the part from the three lamps in the top
3-start from right corner removing the paper introducing your hand from below the part
4-continue pulling the paper while pressing the part against the firewall

the real thing is that a good access to work is granted provided you remove several parts/things:

- windshield water reservoir
- rear carburetor (it is not a must, but it helps a lot),
- coolant reservoir

do not forget a good cleaning of the sheet metal in the adherent area

 

[Sven]

deQ

Thanks for the pictures. I installed my new foam piece last week. I found it a bit short in its length and had to stretch it to place the openings in the correct position. It is also not adhering to the firewall (new paint) very well along the bottom and ends (coming loose in places). I think I will try some Wurth contact cement. Did you have any problems with the self adhesive?

 

[deQuincey]

deQ

Thanks for the pictures. I installed my new foam piece last week. I found it a bit short in its length and had to stretch it to place the openings in the correct position. It is also not adhering to the firewall (new paint) very well along the bottom and ends (coming loose in places). I think I will try some Wurth contact cement. Did you have any problems with the self adhesive?

hi sven

the piece is short because in fact there are two pieces in that particular area of the car, the one you have is the top one, but another one comes below it (in my case as no access is granted to the lower area, the only choice has been the top part)

the self adhesive is not excellent, so an additional impact glue or similar should be used if it is the case

regards