Engine rebuild and engine bay resto thread - 2240284 '72 CS

Stevehose

Stevehose

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I'm starting a thread documenting my engine rebuild after sucking a piece of metal down carb throat #2 and the mayhem inside the cylinder that ensued. I'll start with the pics of the head and piston damage as posted in the prior thread which documents finding what happened to cause the disconcerting loud knock:

Solved - bad engine noise!!

Took the car out for a carb tuning run this am, on the way back close to the house all of a sudden my engine starts to make noise - the kind of noise that makes the hair on your neck stand up. First I thought it was something hitting the fan because I had taken all the carb induction stuff off...
e9coupe.com e9coupe.com

Head damage:

img_3026-jpg.161316



Piston damage:

img_3048-jpg.161314



The head is off and shipping out to Don's tomorrow so he can salvage what is still usable (Schrick cam etc) and begin the process of building a new head. Meanwhile, today I removed most of the ancillary parts attached to the block - alternator, PS pump, a/c compressor, linkage, drained the block, removed the clutch slave, removed the exhaust, and loosened 3 of the 4 tranny nuts, the 4th up high isn't budging so I will hit it with a torch first. Drive shaft is disconnected, I bought a 20v Craftsman impact gun and that blasted the flange nuts off with one pop, this will come in handy moving forward. So the block is close to ready for lift off after I remove the hood, accessed from behind the grill, leaving the hinges attached to the hood per @HB Chris suggestion. With the head off, the block doesn't look that difficult and unwieldy to clear the bay.

My first question: when the engine is out and hanging on the hoist, how do I rest it in the back of a pickup truck - on its side or how? Should I mount it immediately onto a stand then put it in the truck? It will then go to the machine shop for tear down.
 
Steve - I just did my rear main seal. Got to both the top bolts (the 17mm and the top 13 mm) using a very long extension along the tunnel. Removed the transmission mounting bracket and lowered the tranny on a jack to get enough tilt on the engine/transmission assembly to get at the top bolts from the rear.

Much easier than accessing the 17mm from above with an open end wrench, which is what I did last time.
 
I am curious because the work manual says to remove the transmission but doesn't mention the bell housing?
 
Update 1 of the project - engine out day:

I removed the tranny, belhousing and flywheel so nothing much left on the block, I took @sfdon 's advice and left the hood on, I figured with the block stripped as it was that it was roomy enough to do so, and it was:

IMG_3119.JPG


IMG_3125.JPG


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And now on the stand ready for stripping entirely and then off to the machine shop:

IMG_3133.JPG


Special shout out to @jjs2800cs for lending me the picker and engine stand, this is my first time yanking an engine and couldn't have done this without his advice. Onward!!
 
So much cleanliness! Clean block esp oil pan, blankets, towels, and carpeting!
That must make the work pleasant! I'm taking notes on that!
 
Stevehose said:
yes i have an airbox but just a quick carb tuning run and all this fun started!
Click to expand...
Reminds me of a time I accidentally put a too long spark plug into a brand new race engine build, it looked similar, only my engine was a total write off.
So the glass is half full for you, on this occasion it's recoverable thankfully. :)
 
We just finished installing the new 3.5L engine built by Terry Sayther into the '74. I've done many M10 engine replacements but this was my first M30. We had some trouble aligning the motor mount studs in the motor brackets so I changed the lift points to make the engine more upright which made the alignment so much easier. I used the OEM lift point in the front but I looped the rear chain around the exhaust manifold just above the downpipe flange and inserted a 2X4 between the chain and the head to prevent any damage.
I'm going to use this in all future M10/M30 installs as the original lift points cause the engine to tilt too far over to the passenger side.
Just about ready to fire it up!
 

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halboyles said:
We just finished installing the new 3.5L engine built by Terry Sayther into the '74. I've done many M10 engine replacements but this was my first M30. We had some trouble aligning the motor mount studs in the motor brackets so I changed the lift points to make the engine more upright which made the alignment so much easier. I used the OEM lift point in the front but I looped the rear chain around the exhaust manifold just above the downpipe flange and inserted a 2X4 between the chain and the head to prevent any damage.
I'm going to use this in all future M10/M30 installs as the original lift points cause the engine to tilt to far over to the passenger side.
Just about ready to fire it up!
Click to expand...
Very true, my engine got hung up on the passenger side motor mount stud and I had to pry it off while being lifted, I noted that something needed to be done on install to solve this, and it looks like you already have!
 
Leave the motor mounts and rubber as loose as possible
 
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