Hi all, I have recently acquired an 1972 3.0 cs auto that needs some love having been sat for 10 years. First priority is getting the car running. The engine is seized and i have mange to source a replacement (same) engine and gearbox as a complete unit. So, having read many posts the easier way to install both is by dropping the subframe. However i dont have car hoist so kinda comimg around to the option of just installing the engine from the top and splitting the trans and gearbox. So before i make a start keen to get insights from many that have done this already?
Engine swap advice
- Thread starter scottau
- Start date
Welcome. Both techniques are viable. Like you, I don’t have a lift so I removed the head, gearbox, etc and pulled from the top, hood on (some remove a front wheel and lower a corner for better angle) and I had no issues because I was basically down to just the block. The more stuff you remove, the easier. Taking the hood off makes for more room and therefore could probably leave the transmission on but then you have to get the hood adjusted when installed which isn’t always easy. I ended up removing my hood for painting so I drilled locating holes in each hinge before doing so in order to have it line up later.
Scott, many, many have done this, and it’s not really different than on any other car.
(1) consider removing the hood and radiator to gain working space.
(2) the higher the car is on jackstands the more clearance you have to tilt the entire assembly and pull the motor and trans as a single unit. I would hazard a guess of 16” higher than when sitting on ground. But don’t forget that the higher the car sits on the stands the higher your engine hoist must go, and a tilt adapter is pretty much mandatory (which men’s the hoist need to go even higher up.
(3) For this reason, some of us prefer to suspend the engine from the hoist (mounts disconnected), tilt it back a bit, then remove the gearbox from below. the engine by itself is short enough to lift out easily without difficulty. Install is the reverse of this process. I’ve also had one occasion where I lowered the front of the car once the engine/gearbox assembly was 1/2 way out.
(4) Steve’s suggestion of removing the head while the engine is still in the car is an excellent idea, and I’ve done so on a few cars. If you don’t have a bigger hoist or gantry crane and are working solo, the reduced size/weight can be very helpful.
(1) consider removing the hood and radiator to gain working space.
(2) the higher the car is on jackstands the more clearance you have to tilt the entire assembly and pull the motor and trans as a single unit. I would hazard a guess of 16” higher than when sitting on ground. But don’t forget that the higher the car sits on the stands the higher your engine hoist must go, and a tilt adapter is pretty much mandatory (which men’s the hoist need to go even higher up.
(3) For this reason, some of us prefer to suspend the engine from the hoist (mounts disconnected), tilt it back a bit, then remove the gearbox from below. the engine by itself is short enough to lift out easily without difficulty. Install is the reverse of this process. I’ve also had one occasion where I lowered the front of the car once the engine/gearbox assembly was 1/2 way out.
(4) Steve’s suggestion of removing the head while the engine is still in the car is an excellent idea, and I’ve done so on a few cars. If you don’t have a bigger hoist or gantry crane and are working solo, the reduced size/weight can be very helpful.
I pulled my motor by removing radiator, water pump and all ancillaries and the flywheel. I left the head on as it has the lifting strap in front, left hood on, removed passenger side wheel, lowered that side of car, used hoist on the side and I had plenty of room.
I am planning to pull mine this winter too so that I can clean up the engine bay and install a 5 speed.
Chris, you mention a lift strap in the front of the head. I haven't looked carefully yet to see what is available on mine is there a common bracket? What do you use on the back of the block or head as a lift point?
Chris, you mention a lift strap in the front of the head. I haven't looked carefully yet to see what is available on mine is there a common bracket? What do you use on the back of the block or head as a lift point?
There’s a ring in the block above the starter for the back and a bracket mounted on 2 of the upper timing cover bolts for the front.
Yes
Makes for a lot less risk and drama when removed first because you’ve shortened it by half and made it more balanced on lifting chains.
Don’t underestimate the weight of the trans when you remove it (if you are old and weak like some of us). When I was young I would just grab it, pull it off, and gently put the transmission down on the dirt. These days I use a second floor jack with a home made wobbly plate that has slots for 2 ratchet straps. With the Jack supporting the weight I can focus on alignment of the trans/engine.
You’re supposed to just throw that out when you do the water pump, right?