Engine swap

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2800cs

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My current engine has what I think is some kind of piston slap and a lot of ring blow by entering the crankcase. The car still daily drives but it rattles pretty bad if I get on it hard.

This summer I will be swapping another engine in from a later model car... Ive had the engine sitting for a number of years and cant remember if its a b34 or 35.

I intend to swap over the intake, front cover, cam and exhaust... from the e9

Are there any surprises I should consider other than the possibility of the need for a bracket for one of the engine mounts? Anything peripheral you would recommend changing?

Trans should bolt up? problems with cam chain? Ive been holding off on doing this for awhile... lazy!

Any input is appreciated! Thank you!

:)
 
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What fueling system are you going to use? That ties in with what is tricky.

Also, manual or auto transmission?
 
Sorry I can see how that was not well worded.

I was hoping to keep the mechanical pump and carbs.

It has a 5 speed conversion in it!
 
So you are running carbs, probably the stock Zeniths with the stock ignition system.

The later heads (b35) do not have the provision for a mechanical fuel pump. Using a B34 head on a B35 block is possible, but not advisable due to clearance volume differences. (results in a lower compression engine) If you want to maintain the original ignition systems you will need to swap over the upper timing cover and the valve cover from your current engine and get a cam adapter nut from one of several sources. (I got mine from Carl Nelson of LaJolla, worked perfectly.) Actually, since I went the Motronic route instead, I probably have it in a box somewhere. You can get an electric fuel pump for quite cheap that will work fine.

You will also need to work out a carb linkage attachment for the block, as the later blocks may or may not have a flip point for the linkage. The Motronic system is based on pulling (cable) while the carbs are based on pushing.

You will probably also need to use the original exhaust manifolds as the later ones rotated the downpipe flange a bit such that the downpipes would no longer fit.
 
Bonsoir , vous pouvez aussi faire ceci

Hi, you can also do this

http://www.bmwoldschool.eu/moteur-bmw-m30b35-t3388.html

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1395509824_P3220009.JPG

1395509924_P3220008.JPG

1395509975_P3220011.JPG

Mise en place AAC
1395510015_P3220012.JPG

1395510078_P3220013.JPG

Le même outil peut être fabrique pour les M10.
 
Thank you! Answered two of the questions I was actually thinking about.

It currently has mikuni downdrafts on it.. the linkage fabrication sounds like a problem....

I was looking at the fuel pump this morning.. I guess I need to invest in an electric fuel pump also! :)

The car currently has a schrick cam in it.. Will all of the front timing gear and crankshaft pulley swap over?

Since the motor will be out... is the trans pilot bearing different between the two engines?

Jean! Your tool holds all if the rockers so the cam can slide out without removing the head?

Thank you for all of the information!
 
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2800cs said:
Thank you! Answered two of the questions I was actually thinking about.

It currently has mikuni downdrafts on it.. the linkage fabrication sounds like a problem....

I was looking at the fuel pump this morning.. I guess I need to invest in an electric fuel pump also! :)

The car currently has a schrick cam in it.. Will all of the front timing gear and crankshaft pulley swap over?

Since the motor will be out... is the trans pilot bearing different between the two engines?

Jean! Your tool holds all if the rockers so the cam can slide out without removing the head?

Thank you for all of the information!
Click to expand...

Never heard of anyone having an issue with the pilot bore being different, even between auto/manual on any M30.

If you are currently using a Shrick, I am guessing you will want to move over the cam as a whole. Heck, if it is a B34 engine, you may as well move the whole head over, upper timing cover and all.
 
Thank you again atlas! I'll go and check the block numbers!

I checked the engine. Has no provisions for the linkage pivot.. I'm thinking to just tack weld a small steel plate and tap it.

With this overhead cam design.. would you recommend I bring the rockers over too? Meaning a head gasket swap...

I'll start collecting parts!
 
There was a time when there were 2 different sizes of pilot bearings used.
Not just types but sizes. You would swap in a bushing to use the old version.
I think I still have some of them.
 
Jean! Your tool holds all if the rockers so the cam can slide out without removing the head?

Jean! Votre outil contient toutes si les rockers si la came peuvent glisser sans enlever la tête?

Oui comme le montre la photo , outil facilement réalisable en 2 heures avec un poste a souder

Yes as shown in the photo, tool easily achievable in 2 hours with a soldering station
 
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Ok! Im going to yank the engine this weekend....

Im debating if I should pull the transmission with the engine...

Im wondering if I am looking at a lot of pain trying to line up the transmission input shaft if I just lift the engine.

Opinions? suggestions?
 
If you have access to a lift then it may be easier to drop the trans and motor together. If you're using a cherry picker then I would take the engine out first (a leveler works well for this) and then take out the trans. If you are putting it back in the same way it should be pretty easy to put the engine in first and then attach the transmission. There are always scraped knuckles with this method and it helps to have a friend around- preferably a strong friend. Of course if you have a lift you can put it up as one piece.

Good luck! and if you have the inclination once the engine is out you could re-paint the area, I always figure that if you're going to replace/renew the engine it makes sense to spend a few extra hours making things look new- of course that's just me. :)
 
Thank you!

I have a cherry picker! I will do it that way instead of short cutting it!!
 
I will have the transmission and engine out tomorrow. When pulling the intake manifold I noticed that coolant runs through both intake and the back of the head and through the heater core. I am going to bypass the core..

I also noticed that the b35 head doesn't run coolant to the back of the head..

Is it ok to bypass the manifolds? And it seems to me that water circulation through the back of the head is a good thing... so I should rig up the coolant flow to pass through there still?

Extraction going smooth.. other than the collector end of the stahl header being stuck in the midpipe.. and a rounded star head bolt on the bell housing.
 
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Use the fitting from back of the old head. You also need a hose from water divider/t-stat under the new manifold to connect to expansion tank and heater return. I have one with a T to connect these hoses if you need one.
 
Low oil pressure

So I have the car up and running... engine seems to run fine but the oil pressure idiot light stays on.

I read that the b35 blocks needed to have a hole plugged in the filter housing mount on the block to use and older style housing.... Is this also true for the b34 blocks?

I looked up the configuration of the filter housing that was on the engine, and this is apparently a b35 filter housing.....

Tomorrow I will remove the housing...... and have a look.

I am a little worried that it is the pump... can anyone alleviate my fears and tell me that its not that?!?! Lol!

I am using the b34...35 or whatever that lower half is... and the e9 pump pickup. The pump looked the same except for the gear on the front.... and a different style of pressure relief.
 
"I am using the b34...35 or whatever that lower half is"

Help us help you.

Is there a rubber plug in the back of your block on the left side at about 7 oclock?
about 2 inches across.

Do you have a spare oil pressure sensor?

Can you see a series of numbers above the mounting hole for the starter?
 
Yes! It does have a rubber boot!

No... I don't have an extra sensor.

The one resource I found said the block was a b34.

If that boot means it's a 35! That will make me happy!
 
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