Engine swap

IF you have the rubber plug at the back on the side and IF you are using a B34 or earlier oil canister you will need a 10 mm FINE thread plug in the block or you will get no oil pressure.
I buy the bolt at the hardware store, cut the head off and cut a groove at the end for a screwdriver. Red lock tight also.
 
Thank You!

This engine... apparently had it's work done at bmw of honolulu, the head inside the front cover had it written in pen.

I'm not sure what they did.. it has a b35 oil pan.. the b35 oil filter housing.. an apparently reconditioned b35 head...

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1012975/

This I'm not clear on also, but I was reading up on the engine swap for and e28

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60306

I am using the same 3 bolt holes for the the left side engine mount and the same 2 on the right as they do when putting in a b35. The engine mount configuration seems to suggest from what I've read that it's a b35?

The block number search online using realoem... tells me it's an 87 535I with a manual transmission.

Confused...

But again.... Thank you!

I will go out and buy the m10 x 1.0 today!
 
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The plug was open.

Low pressure light is off and engine is running smoothly. Just need to pressure up the cooling system and check for leaks and put on the hood!
 
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Car has been running well but i recently found some oil in my coolant! Not a huge amount.. but after I flushed everything it came back within the week.

It doesnt overheat and there doesnt appear to be a visible amount of combustion gas bubbling into the reservoir. The oil is clean... no indications of water on the stick or on the oil cap.

Any recommendations on things I should look for before I pull the headgasket???

As this is a 34 lower half and a 35 head anything special I should know before I purchase the gasket?
 
That is the second coupe I have seen with a surf board on top!
The first being Charlie's
Not sure if I would allow salt water that close to my coupe.
 
There are two head gasket designs... Any suggestion of which one is better?



 
Oil in coolant often is cracked block at headbolt bore. Inspect each head bolt bore hole at surface of block for fine cracks to water jacket. Cause of this is cleaning bore holes ot oil when installing head.
 
Thanks sfdon.

Thats a bit of bad news!

Ill pull the head and look to see if I can see any splits. Im guessing this kind of crack propogates from the block deck down, so repairing isnt really an option?

In your experience.... whats the probability of this being a head gasket? Is it to the point where its not even worth opening up the head?
 
Two answers for you..
Do a compression test and if all is well then just keep driving

Funny thing about oil in the coolant....
I drove my 745i turbo like that for five years.
Twice a year I would pour dishwashing soap into the expansion tank, go for a spin and then flush the system. Important how you flush it ask me details.
I wouldn't pull the head. You can buy a lot of Palmolive for the price of a head gasket.
 
Thank you!

I will buy a gasket and keep it on the side!

Will PM you for the details of flushing the engine!!!
 
I went forward and pulled the head and the block doesnt have any cracks. I replaced the head gasket and have been driving it for the past week. no more oil.

I also bought one of those aluminum radiators that you see on ebay all the time. I have to say that I was surprised with the fit and welds.

I had temperature creep when running up long grades and with the A/C on. This radiator seems to have cured the problem! Unlike the brass radiator, you can feel the heat coming off the radiator with the fan on and after driving it today it hasnt gone above middle!
 
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