Fan not properly cooling?

Stefano_b

Stefano_b

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At last, while I was ready to drive my E9 again after a couple of months, the bad surprise: the fan doesn't work properly. There has been an overheating issue before starting the restoration, mechanic stated it was the water pump but it is not so!
Fan rotates at low speed and we can stop it with a finger at any time.
Any ideas or hint to understand where is the problem?
 
Is it sure it is the fan clutch or maybe it could be the thermostat not running?

This is my fan:

12549a662a7dc38d2478fa8c13279605.jpg
 
This is the radiator, Adawil. Btw, I do not understand what "triple cored" stands for :-(.
66ffdeeec47e081b8b9b09b5ef28c519.jpg
 
Triple core is an extra row of cooling fins. I had mine redone and now my fan does not fit, will be using a Spal pusher fan up front. If yours spins while hot, it is defective. If it is a mechanical clutch type, you should upgrade to a hydraulic fan clutch.
 
If you can catch and stop the fan with your fingers while the engine is running, then your fan-clutch is broken and most likely the cause for your overheating engine.

Cheers,
 
Last edited:
Nicad said:
Triple core is an extra row of cooling fins. I had mine redone and now my fan does not fit, will be using a Spal pusher fan up front.
Click to expand...

Mine just fits, not a lot of clearance between the radiator and the fan though. On my 4th fan clutch since 2011.
 
I don't have a fan on the water pump. Just a fan in front of the radiator, (which has been triple cored), and is the same unit as on a/c equipped cars. Temp sender instructs fan turn on when temp gauge reaches approximately 2 o'clock. Quickly brings temp back down to 4 o'clock. Can be loud, perhaps just age, have been considering modern replacements, and installing much closer to radiator for improved efficiency. Been running this way for 29 years. Never have overheated. Mike
 
Don't replace the original friction clutch, unless you want to blow your head. Get your radiator tested and upgrade to the 9 blade fan - looks period correct and works well. Why risk the engine if it's driven? You can always replace the original inferior one if you sell or whatever.
 

bluecoupe30! said:
I don't have a fan on the water pump. Just a fan in front of the radiator, (which has been triple cored), and is the same unit as on a/c equipped cars. Temp sender instructs fan turn on when temp gauge reaches approximately 2 o'clock. Quickly brings temp back down to 4 o'clock. Can be loud, perhaps just age, have been considering modern replacements, and installing much closer to radiator for improved efficiency. Been running this way for 29 years. Never have overheated. Mike
Click to expand...

I installed my Spal fan last week and test fired it (Same as the one Alan is selling at an excellent price) Really runs quiet. I made the mount to attach to existing holes, so no drilling on the Coupe body.
 
Stevehose said:
You will also need:
11521259805 Flange
11521276659 Shim
Shim says nla but i have seen them on ebay.

Also need the bolts. See the realoem diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3435-USA---E9-BMW-3.0CS&diagId=11_2535
Click to expand...

Answer from Wallothnesch :-(

"if you want to use the visco-fan clutch on your car you have to change the water pump, fan blade and radiator also.

please follow the links for the parts you need for a change:

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/radiator-manual-transmission-11-25-01.html

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/wat...535i-all-years-of-manufacturing-11-00-00.html

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/fan-for-viscosity-clutch-11-24-02.html

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/vis...535i-all-years-of-manufacturing-11-00-00.html"
 
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