Feeler: Triple Weber T-Stat housing spacer - $50

[Markos]

Hi Folks,

I'm making myself a 6061 water jet cut aluminum spacer for my t-stat housing. I arrived at a 32mm spacer that allows my housing to clear the adjuster on my type 152 DCOE 40's. The end product may be within a mm or so of this, as I have some flexibility.

I'm getting a spacer for myself not matter what, but it is 3x cheaper if I make six, cheaper still if I make 10. The risk is that the spacer won't be big enough for your manifold or carb setup. The other risk is that your hose won't flex enough to account for the extra 32mm. I've talked to someone about that, and the hose that I'm using has a decent amount of play (untested). So... If you feel like spending $50 on an experiment with no gauranteed outcome, please chime in. Keep in mind that you will also need to purchase longer studs, as well as a second gasket (~$8).

By comparison, the modified Korman t-stat housing is around $250.

Problem - Note this is with a redline 3pc manifold, same clearance issue as the Korman manifold:

Tracing the gasket:

The waterjet company split the difference on the trace. The lead was .7mm on the pencil, and the t-stat flange has quite a bit of plate anyway. I told the guy that it's for water and not air, and I'm not terribly concerned about tolerances. He is going to do a test cut on MDF and compare against my gasket and flange..

The late model flange I'm using - $69 at BMW - this is the flange I used to test the 32mm's required.

Keeping me honest:

 

[Belgiumbarry]

we welded another tube in the thermostat housing under a slight different angle .

 

[Markos]

we welded another tube in the thermostat housing under a slight different angle .

Yeah that requires a TIG, which isn't in my aresnal yet. If you have a TIG, more power to you. If you think you can have a welder fabricate a part for $50 then by all means.

 

[daddywad]

I used a secondhand thermostat housing, machined the top off to leave a 32mm thick spacer. use longer studs and 2 gaskets and all should be good.
m

 

[autokunst]

I like the concept. I am currently using a late model t-stat housing (BMW part number 11531710959 - $45 street price), and it just barely fits. But I have yet to install my new (old) VGS manifold. That should create a lot more room - at least that is what I anticipate. But if for some reason that doesn't pan out, I'll either weld up a detail similar to Barry, or call you to speak with your water jet guy. By that time I suspect it will be past your window of bulk-discount. But maybe not - I might get moving on this faster than I think, and you may run into some delays... I'll follow this thread regardless.

 

[Markos]

Sounds good Stephen. I’m going to move forward with mine in another week or so. It will cost me around $150 for one unfortunately. I plan on buying a tig welder when I start my bodywork, but I’m a ways away from that prospect.

 

[autokunst]

and it just barely fits.

I should also mention that to adjust the front carb as I have it currently, you have to do it through mental telepathy.

 

[Markos]

I think you will be just fine with the BGS manifold. One of the primary advantages of that unit.

 

[autokunst]

I plan on buying a tig welder when I start my bodywork, but I’m a ways away from that prospect.

Mark, I am sure you already know this - or will research in depth before pulling the trigger. But in the interest of talking about welders, I'll mention that if you intend to do TIG welding on aluminum (like that t-stat housing), you will need a unit that can perform AC as well as DC. And one in the 200 amp range. If you only plan on doing (steel) body work and most of the rest of what we find on an e9, a DC only model with much lower amperage will meet your needs. Units that run on only 110V typically can weld at 125 amps - enough for 1/8" thick steel. Regardless of which make, model, or type you get, you will also probably want to get it at least 6 months to a year ahead of when you plan on striking an arc on the car or its parts so you can practice. TIG is a wonderfully complicated affair, with many inputs harmoniously combining towards the results you are after. One benefit is the ability to control the amount of heat you are adding to the thin body panels of a car. But it takes some practice.

 

[Stevehose]

Yes the VGS should clear the stock housing, it's designed to do just that

I think you will be just fine with the BGS manifold. One of the primary advantages of that unit.

 

[Markos]

Mark, I am sure you already know this - or will research in depth before pulling the trigger. But in the interest of talking about welders, I'll mention that if you intend to do TIG welding on aluminum (like that t-stat housing), you will need a unit that can perform AC as well as DC. And one in the 200 amp range. If you only plan on doing (steel) body work and most of the rest of what we find on an e9, a DC only model with much lower amperage will meet your needs. Units that run on only 110V typically can weld at 125 amps - enough for 1/8" thick steel. Regardless of which make, model, or type you get, you will also probably want to get it at least 6 months to a year ahead of when you plan on striking an arc on the car or its parts so you can practice. TIG is a wonderfully complicated affair, with many inputs harmoniously combining towards the results you are after. One benefit is the ability to control the amount of heat you are adding to the thin body panels of a car. But it takes some practice.

Thanks Stephen! I plan on picking up a unit that can weld both. It is going to need to be a nicer unit as well because I want a thumb control. I spend a lot of time talking about the things that I am going to do someday, but I rarely deviate from the plan. I've already rewired my garage for a big compressor (got it), and a big welder (in progress). I've had a mig welder for a long time and I've taken a TIG class. I really enjoy TIG, and it was a lot easier to throw down a pretty bead than I was expecting. I know that a TIG isn't the best option for awkward bodywork angles, hence the thumb control. I also plan on making a rotisserie (but not the standard type).

 

[autokunst]

I also plan on making a rotisserie (but not the standard type).

I look forward to learning from your rotisserie ideas. I've been contemplating a few different configurations for a while, and I "think" I know how I'd like to set it up. But I have some time to ponder. Welder number 2 has been getting some good use - have been working on heat reduction in thin metal. And the new, big compressor is in position but not up and running yet. Love the thumb control idea. I've also had good results with a thin .023 ER70S6 wire (for this I use ESAB Easy Grind wire) and MIG. Much easier in tight/overhead spaces.