Fritz Bit exhaust: misc comments

[JFENG]

I stalling a Fitz Bits to replace a rusty Bosal. There are many excellent posts on this exhaust system, but I hope these pics are of use to someone.
Quality: pretty good, IMHO.
I’ve not yet decided if I like the threaded gasket flanges over the more traditional nut and bolt design. Rather than the traditional self locking bronze nuts and steel bolts, I bought some SS flange head M8x1.25 bolts (35mm long, but 30mm is plenty). Will be interesting to see if they loosen up over time. I suppose I could always nut the ends anyway.

Hangers: Fitz system lacks a hanger on the rear pipe section that runs around the spare tire well. Here is a pic of the hanger (pipe and body side). This last pipe section is made of thinner wall material.

Finally, this system costs $700, and I would have gladly paid $750 to have the needed gaskets and hardware included. Sure, there are 2 possible joint types at the front end, so you would need to throw in an extra $3 sealing ring to cover both possibilities. As it is, I had to go shopping again for the hardware, and again for the sealing rings.

John

 

[rsporsche]

John,

we (actually @bdigel) found that out with mine. i figured that i would create a wraparound clamp that joins together to attach to the rubber mount.

 

[JFENG]

John,

we (actually @bdigel) found that out with mine. i figured that i would create a wraparound clamp that joins together to attach to the rubber mount.

Good idea, Not as pretty but quick/easy. I don’t know why FryizBits doesn’t just tack on a hanger. If an owner doesn’t need it they can cut it off.

 

[Stevehose]

Supposed to be used with this, and allows for adjustment:

Genuine BMW E9 Coupe Exhaust Muffler Pipe Clamp OEM 18211102888 | eBay

OEM Numbers: 18211102888 / 18 21 1 102 888 / 1102888. BMW E9 2.5CS M30 1974/06 Coupe 1974-1975. BMW E9 2800CS M30 1968/12 Coupe 1968-1971. BMW E9 2800CS M30 1969/06 Coupe 1968-1971. BMW E9 2800CS M30 1969/08 Coupe 1968-1971.

www.ebay.com

 

[JFENG]

Supposed to be used with this, and allows for adjustment:

Steve, there is a reason I love your posts.

 

[rsporsche]

although that ebay listing is quite the ripoff ... this is exactly what i was thinking about, thanks for posting

Genuine BMW 18-21-1-102-888 | Pipe Clamp C183013 | FREE Shipping on Most Orders $499+ OEMG! | getBMWparts

Shop Genuine OEM BMW Pipe Clamp C183013 - Part # 18-21-1-102-888 - & Enjoy FREE Shipping on Most Orders $499+ OEMG!!

www.getbmwparts.com

 

[Stevehose]

although that ebay listing is quite the ripoff ... this is exactly what i was thinking about, thanks for posting

Genuine BMW 18-21-1-102-888 | Pipe Clamp C183013 | FREE Shipping on Most Orders $499+ OEMG! | getBMWparts

Shop Genuine OEM BMW Pipe Clamp C183013 - Part # 18-21-1-102-888 - & Enjoy FREE Shipping on Most Orders $499+ OEMG!!

www.getbmwparts.com

Looks like FCP can get them cheaper but not in stock....

BMW Pipe Clamp - Genuine BMW 18211102888

BMW Pipe Clamp - Genuine BMW 18211102888

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[rsporsche]

not so sure i agree with you Steve ... FCP euro is 15.89 and getbmwparts.com is 13.59

 

[thedazeofrain]

I agree with you. It was very frustrating and time consuming that the gaskets/sealing rings were not included. There are multiple sizes in the market place to choose from. I’m still struggling with fitment so it doesn’t droop so much. But, it looks nice.

 

[Laldog]

I just received a Fitz Bitz system that I will be installing very soon. I was aware that exhaust hangers were required but totally overlooked the possibility of new system requiring gaskets/sealing rings.
What specific gaskets and sealing rings will I be needing?

And JFENG is there a local (Boston area) source that you can recommend for parts (exhaust and otherwise)?

Thanks in advance

 

[Stevehose]

remember, the new bmw exhaust hangers are shite and need to be reinforced. I put a small metal backing on the inside of the loop on each side, with each held together by a small bolt and locknut. Otherwise they will fail sooner rather than later.

 

[Ohmess]

remember, the new bmw exhaust hangers are shite and need to be reinforced. I put a small metal backing on the inside of the loop on each side, with each held together by a small bolt and locknut. Otherwise they will fail sooner rather than later.

I'm using entirely aftermarket hangers on my (Coupe King) system.

 

[JFENG]

What specific gaskets and sealing rings will I be needing?

Here is TMI:

Connection #1: twin down-pipes into 1st (long) muffler/resonator.​

There are 2 types of joints possible. Both use a partially threaded M8x1.25 bolt and a self-locking bronze M8 flanged nut. You will need 2 gaskets, but the type depends on what type of joints you have (and you may need one of each type). See pic #1, #2

• Slip-Flange joint: down pipe is straight sided and fits inside flanged muffler pipe.
  • gasket is a light metal ring (aluminum) with soft inner lining. Inner lining is deformable/compressible to seal against the straight sided pipe.
  • You need to buy part # 18119067822 (marked 42.5mm/51mm on the package)
  • Both of my pipes are slip-flange (picture #1)
• Flange-Flange joint: down pipe is flanged and mates with flange on muffler inlet pipe.
  • gasket is a dense steel ring, much narrower than the slip-fit gasket described above
  • You need to buy part # 18111245489 (marked 42mm/52mm on the package)

Connection #2: First/long muffler to short middle muffler​

On my fitz bitz system, this is flange-flange joint that requires a ring gasket. Pics #3, #4

• Part # 18111709239 (marked as a 60mm size)
• Provides lots of positioning flexibility
• You also need to buy 3 M8x1.25 bolts (no nuts as one of the 2 flanges is threaded). 30mm long bolt (not incl hex head) should be fine. Being a nervous Nellie, I bought 35mm length and will trim if needed.

Connection #3: short middle muffler to large lateral muffler​

On my Fitz Bitz , this is common slip joint that has no gasket and comes with a good quality stainless band clamp included. Pic #5

Connection #4: big lateral muffler to curved tail pipe​

On my fitz bitz system, this is flange-flange joint that requires a ring gasket. Similar to pic #3, #4

• Part # 18111709239 (marked as a 60mm size)
• Provides lots of positioning flexibility
• You also need to buy 3 M8x1.25 bolts (no nuts as 1 of the 2 flanges is threaded). 30mm long bolt (not incl hex head) should be fine.
• You also need to an exhaust hanger, BMW part 18211102888 (for 60mm pipe).

Total number of gaskets you need to buy is 4, two 60mm and 2 more which match your downpipes

Total hardware you need to buy: 6 M8x1.25 bolts. I bought stainless flanged hex bolts, but you can use regular hex with a lock washer.

Where to buy? My local BMW dealer is pretty good for parts (Sudbury). For online, I like RMEuropean.com

 

[Laldog]

WOW!

TMI nothing. This is fantastic. Illustrations too!

Thank you so much.
(no excuses now)

 

[JFENG]

WOW!

TMI nothing. This is fantastic. Illustrations too!

Thank you so much.
(no excuses now)

If you are in the metro-west area and want some emotional support, let me know. I bought two of both types of front gaskets and therefor have 2 superfluous 42mm flange-flange gaskets (and some stainless hex bolts).

 

[HB Chris]

On my system I had issues getting a good seal at Joint #3 and the 60mm seal was hard to find.

 

[JFENG]

getting a good seal at Joint #3

Hi Chris,
I have a similar joint on my Westfield Eweven that was finicky. I bought a “stepped band clamp,” which solved the problem. I put one layer of header “wrap” around the joint and then the stepped clamp over that and it has held up fine over time.

 

[Stevehose]

Mine leaked like crazy with a smoke test so I recommend using the Permatex high temp exhaust sealer on the joints. Problem solved.

Permatex® Ultra Red® RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 OZ – Permatex

www.permatex.com

 

[JFENG]

Update: here is the only fient problem I’ve found so far. The angle of the rear tail pipe does not match the outlet of the lateral rear muffler. It’s a good 5 degrees off. The sealing ring may be able to handle this but ideally the tail pipe needs a tighter angle at the forward bend (at the flange), or one additional angle should be put in about 8” further back of the flange (green area of PoC #2). Disappointing for the cost and the hype about this system. Easy fix for the manufacturer if they care. A band saw cut, bend and tig weld would be just right.

In the pics, the tail pipe is still off center in the rear valance by about 3/4”. So I need even more angle in the joint. I might get pissed off annd fix it the right way (as VSR did for Stan).

 

[JFENG]

One more nit to pick. The slip joint between the shorty resonator and the rear muffler needs sufficient overlap to seal. When I fit the new forward resonator in the same position as the old Bosal part, the tail of the shorty muffler doesn’t go deep enough into the rear muffler. The pic shows the insufficient overlap Notice the tiny gap where gases can escape at the bottom of the slit. It would be better to have 1.5” more length in the outlet pipe of the shorty muffler to get more overlap. If I were making this system that’s what I would do because it’s way easier to cut a bit off than add 1.5” back on .

The solution is to fit the FB front resonator 1.5” further aft compared to the Bosal I took off. I hope this will be fine, but the overlap at that front joint is way less than I prefer (eg. pretty close to the end of the down pipes). I split the difference, but suspect the joint going into the rear muffler may leak as others have experienced.

Finally, IMHO the type of wider band clamp supplied w the FB system does not exert as much clamping pressure as the old fashioned u-bolt type (eg the type that distorts the pipe making future disassembly a b*tch). This may be why others have had exhaust leaks at this joint unless sealer was applied. I may buy a stepped band clamp s shown in an earlier post because I hate u-bolt clamps with a passion.