Front Fender Inner Cover

Thomas76

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Does anyone know if item #9 is bolt in? And if there is a gasket that belongs in there with it? Item 9-41141814035,6 for left and right side. W/N calls it an A post cover.
Any help or potential used ones out there would be very appreciated. Thank you!
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Strato102

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It is surprising that this panel isn't discussed more. A rarity in the e9 world, some rust actually starts on the OUTSIDE and is preventable. In this case this panel lays right against the lower A pillar structure. It isn't watertight and grit and moisture gets stuck between the two. Also, on the lower area on the outside, a pocket is formed by the fender lip, rocker and this panel which collects dirt, gravel, etc. Rust holes develop in the lower part of the panel as a result and dirt, etc. shoot right through it and beyond into the depths of the rocker/rocker cover structure. Made easier by removing the wheel, removing two body screws and wiggling this thing free takes about 5 minutes. A lot of discussion about rocker covers which can be bit of a pain to replace correctly but never simply removing this panel and having a look.
 

Strato102

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I forgot to mention probably the most important part in my opinion. Often the bubbling on the lower part of the front fender is seen as indicative of rust on the lower A pillar. Removing the panel will show a very small gap between the lower a pillar and inner fender. It could well be invisible with clogged dirt. The two don't touch but the clogged dirt could well be causing the bubbles.
 

Keshav

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Thomas,
You might want to consider these Lokari inner fender covers which not only cover the area in question, they cover basically the whole front fender wheel house. And cheaper than the W/N parts with gaskets which are also available. Used ones are generally rotten from the debris, slush and dirt onslaught over the years.


Check the search section for Lokari, plenty of write ups and installation tips and decide what makes more sense to your needs.

 

Stevehose

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When I first got my car I took these off and cleaned and cavity waxed. Then resealed them leaving a drain area at the bottom as noted.

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Thomas76

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I love the support on e9coupe.com!!!!:love: I'm eager to return the favor as often as possible.
Thanks for your help, working with Lokari at the moment for USA shipping.
 

Keshav

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Thomas,
@Willem Tell recently installed them..... take a look at his informative write up via the search function. A good tip is to replace the metal staples (which attach the rubber strips to the corpus) with Alloy rivets. The staples are metal and will rust over time whereas the rivets won’t.

Keshav
 

rsporsche

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that's a nice approach Andrew ... i have been trying to figure out what i was going to do as the bright silver was going to jump out with a ceylon car. so did you use something like a truck bed liner material? with the rubber undercoating, you probably don't need to worry about the staples
 

adawil2002

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that's a nice approach Andrew ... i have been trying to figure out what i was going to do as the bright silver was going to jump out with a ceylon car. so did you use something like a truck bed liner material? with the rubber undercoating, you probably don't need to worry about the staples

VSR used Wurth Shutz. I have used the spray can undercoating from auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Autozone or NAPA with great results on aluminum & stainless steel.
 

e9john

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When I first got my car I took these off and cleaned and cavity waxed. Then resealed them leaving a drain area at the bottom as noted.
Item #9 is a weld on part that fits above this removable part, has cut outs that allow the removable part to slot into it. I have a pair for mine but have not fitted them yet, I'm considering welding them to the removable cover to make a larger removable one to enable access behind them to keep on top of rust protection.
 

Willem Tell

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that's a nice approach Andrew ... i have been trying to figure out what i was going to do as the bright silver was going to jump out with a ceylon car. so did you use something like a truck bed liner material? with the rubber undercoating, you probably don't need to worry about the staples
I wouldn't worry about the aluminum color showing. Once the wheel is on, you really cannot see the inner fenders, unless you lean down and look inside the wheel well with the wheel turned. As you'll find in my thread (https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/sealed-the-dreaded-gravel-trap.31769/#post-259822), I coated them with Penetrol and left them as is, because I did the rubberized undercoat on my Tii and found it grabs grass and is harder to brush off. On the E9, it's super easy to get the grass and grit off.

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I coated them (twice) with Penetrol front and back and let it dry hard before I installed them. On the E9, it's super easy to get the grass and grit off. You can see footprints from when I levered them into place, but they wiped right off. You can't even see the Penetrol (Owaltröl here in CH). I had already done a deep dive with Bilton Hammer wax in all of the crevasses, the A-Pillar, and up inside all of the fenders folds from the A-Pillar to the head lights. Then I coated the entire wheel well surface with Penetrol before installing the Lokari inner fenders.

The issue with the staples is the galvanic reaction between steel staples and aluminum sheet. The coating will slow it down as they'll stay drier, but it won't stop it (when you're talking years).
You can see here that I pulled all of the staples and drilled and riveted the Lokaris on the E9. This is no small task! They use something more like a two-headed brad rather than a simple staple that's sharp on both ends. These things are strong, hard to bend, and the heads don't just slip out like a staple would. You have to twist up both heads, cut them in the middle, and then wrestle both sides out. A strong flat bladed screw driver, a pair of dikes, a straight needle-nose and a curved needle-nose are needed to yank these things out! Not to mention a pair of thick protective gloves. If I remember correctly, there are about 50 staples in each fender. Each fender was about six hours of work; one per day was plenty!

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I left them as is, because I did the rubberized undercoat on my Tii and found it grabs grass and is harder to brush off. Switzerland is like a big nature park/farm, so there are always farm vehicles moving around on the secondary roads, leaving mud, grass, and fertilizer on the roads, so it's a regular thing here. I did both front and back on my Tii:

Lokari (2) - Copy.JPG
Lokari (3) - Copy.JPG
Lokari (4).JPG
Lokari (6) - Copy.JPG


It's funny how the Lokaris are kind of considered a good idea, if not essential equipment on E9s, but boy, the reaction is very different in the '02 FAQ community... mostly reviled there! I think they're great on my Tii, and again, hardly noticeable unless you have your nose in the wheel well. I can see all of the grass that would have been thrown high up into the front well around the light buckets and in the rear up deep around the spare well and gas tank.
 
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Thomas76

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I wouldn't worry about the aluminum color showing. Once the wheel is on, you really cannot see the inner fenders, unless you lean down and look inside the wheel well with the wheel turned. As you'll find in my thread (https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/sealed-the-dreaded-gravel-trap.31769/#post-259822), I coated them with Penetrol and left them as is, because I did the rubberized undercoat on my Tii and found it grabs grass and is harder to brush off. On the E9, it's super easy to get the grass and grit off.

View attachment 84026View attachment 84027

I coated them (twice) with Penetrol front and back and let it dry hard before I installed them. On the E9, it's super easy to get the grass and grit off. You can see footprints from when I levered them into place, but they wiped right off. You can't even see the Penetrol (Owaltröl here in CH). I had already done a deep dive with Bilton Hammer wax in all of the crevasses, the A-Pillar, and up inside all of the fenders folds from the A-Pillar to the head lights. Then I coated the entire wheel well surface with Penetrol before installing the Lokari inner fenders.

The issue with the staples is the galvanic reaction between steel staples and aluminum sheet. The coating will slow it down as they'll stay drier, but it won't stop it (when you're talking years).
You can see here that I pulled all of the staples and drilled and riveted the Lokaris on the E9. This is no small task! They use something more like a two-headed brad rather than a simple staple that's sharp on both ends. These things are strong, hard to bend, and the heads don't just slip out like a staple would. You have to twist up both heads, cut them in the middle, and then wrestle both sides out. A strong flat bladed screw driver, a pair of dikes, a straight needle-nose and a curved needle-nose are needed to yank these things out! Not to mention a pair of thick protective gloves. If I remember correctly, there are about 50 staples in each fender. Each fender was about six hours of work; one per day was plenty!

View attachment 84028View attachment 84029View attachment 84030View attachment 84031View attachment 84032

I left them as is, because I did the rubberized undercoat on my Tii and found it grabs grass and is harder to brush off. Switzerland is like a big nature park/farm, so there are always farm vehicles moving around on the secondary roads, leaving mud, grass, and fertilizer on the roads, so it's a regular thing here. I did both front and back on my Tii:

View attachment 84033View attachment 84034View attachment 84035View attachment 84036

It's funny how the Lokaris are kind of considered a good idea, if not essential equipment on E9s, but boy, the reaction is very different in the '02 FAQ community... mostly reviled there! I think they're great on my Tii, and again, hardly noticeable unless you have your nose in the wheel well. I can see all of the grass that would have been thrown high up into the front well around the light buckets and in the rear up deep around the spare well and gas tank.
Thanks for the write up and pics, I'm growing to like the contrast color of raw metal under there. It seems to highlight the level of craftsmanship instead of bury it.
 

eriknetherlands

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@Willem Tell ; I am also considering the Lokari shields. I'm pretty convinced they are beneficial to our cars.
Question regarding your installation; I see you have made 2 new screw holes in the inner fender, just above the bumper mounts.
I don't feel very warmly for this idea, as these screws are yet another point of piercing the protective skin (paint). I also spot to almost perfectly positioned bolts; the ones for the bumper bracket.

Did you consider to bolt the Lokaris in place, using the bumper bracket bolts? (see attached image with red line showing possible location) If so, why did you not choose this route?
 

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eriknetherlands

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Funny enough, i also found this bracket positioning (see image). So i'm thinking they don't come pre-installed, meaning I can set them as i like....
 

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Willem Tell

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Doh! I'm sure I played around with the positioning of those brackets, can't say why that didn't occur to me. As you point out, that would have been the wiser solution. Easy enough to slot the brackets for some position flexibility.

I did use Owatöl and loaded the holes with grease when I mounted them.

The Lokaris have kept a whole world of crap out of the nooks and crannies. I highly recommend them.
 

Willem Tell

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Addendum...

I had a leaky master brake cylinder noted in 2019 when I had the car inspected. I replaced the master cylinder, but had one persistent leaky fitting that leaked a bit of brake fluid through a hole in the wall and into the wheel well. So last year when I swapped the Getrag 4-speed for a 5-speed and had access to a lift for a couple of days, I took the opportunity to repair that spot where the brake fluid lifted the paint. I pulled the Lokari on the driver's side, and it was spotless inside after more than a year of driving, even though I had driven through showers in the kms approaching the mechanic's location..
 
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