fuel lines and progress on my project.

[mario1017]

greetings from wisconsin. still not summer here yet and no signs of it showing up.
anyways..
I took my csi gas tank out. Cleaned it out and now I need fuel lines from the tank all the way to the front. i am going to carbs, since i can't source some parts for my fuel injection system (ECU)

1. Which type if fuel lines should I be using? Ideas?

2. Which type of fuel pump?

Cleaned my trunk out, cleaned the lining of sharkskin lining up really good, and I am slowly making this a driver.

 

[bill]

You can use the existing fuel lines in your car, assuming, of course, the rubber lines are still in good shape. Otherwise you should replace the rubber portions. Pre-1974 carbed cars have only one fuel line between the tank and the carbs. !974 and later have a return line in addition to the supply line, as do the CSI cars. Carbed cars used a mechanical fuel pump (located in the middle of the head) driven off a camshaft lobe by a shaft. Your head is a CSI so the hole for he shaft won't be provided. Also, and I am not sure of this, I suspect CSI camshafts may not have the lobe for mechanical fuel pumps. Others on this most wonderful list will definitely know the answer to that question...
I converted from carbs to D-jet. If I can be of further help, let me know. Good luck!

 

[mario1017]

bill the lines are not trustworthy. it's cheap insurance to replace them.
im going the opposite direction as you. I'm curious bill, where did you score an ECU for your car?

my main question is... should i use some more mondern material for the hose, the right size, and retrofit it?
will have to go with an in tank fuel pump? or is there other options for mounting?

 

[bill]

The ECU came from a 75 CSI along with all the D-Jet parts. And the fuel lines in my '74 were intact and haven't leaked in the 10 years I have had the car, so I guess I lucked out. Gas fumes/leaks are scary and I am diligent about tracking them down. So far the tank has given me more trouble than the lines themselves....

 

[mario1017]

find an old school radiator shop in town, pull your tank, and have them test it for leaks and test it. very reasonable.

 

[rsporsche]

better yet, while its there, have them boil it out and paint the outside.

 

[d-ace]

When I restored my 1971 CSI I replaced all gas lines and brake lines with new tubing. It is not hard at all. Just need a tubing bender, flaring tool and tubing cuter about $40 worth of tools.

The stock electric fuel pump is the best if I remember on my Euro 1979 635csi when I checked the pressure to the injectors it was 280 pounds that why the rubber fuel line cost about $10 a foot.
And a tank test would be good too although check the high-pressure rubber lines around the fuel pump too, first.

One thing about changing the top-end on the motor due to injection problems. When we bought a 1978 Euro 635csi for my son years ago to restore one of the first things I saw that amazed me was the block had stamped on it 3.0. Where my Euro 1979 635csi the block had stamped on it 3.5. Obviously BMW used a 3.0 block with a 3.5 liter head setup with injection too for the first year of 635csi. All these people that are changing to a 3.5 liter 635csi motor this would be a more simple way and would still have the matching numbers on motor and body.

Still F/S >>> http://shred-master.com/new_page_2.htm
Bob