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Jimbodawg

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Hi all,

I joined this forum years ago and wanted to buy an e9. I didn’t have the money/time back then. So I waited for prices to skyrocket

I am expecting a significant bonus and if it goes through, I’d like to buy an e9.

Some questions from a hope-to-be-newbie:
What do you do about gas? I assume these cars need leaded fuel. Are there additives? Are there places that sell leaded fuel? Can you get away with regular or premium grades?
Are there “better” years of 3.0cs to buy? Any to avoid? I assume the route to go would be manual windows and manual sunroof to avoid electrical problems? I know these cars are rust prone so apart from rust issues, are there other areas of major concern to be on the lookout for?

And finally, I know that these cars aren’t safe by today’s standards. I would like to make it as safe as reasonable. I have a 2 year old and a 5 year old. I need 3 point belts for their car seats. Which means I need some type of anchor. I cannot tell if these cars have some sort of 3 point seatbelt system or if they are only in particular years or if they are in Euro models. If anyone has any insight I’d appreciate that. Not looking for the “when I was a kid we didn’t have carseats and I’m still around.” The ones we’ve lost along the way aren’t here to chime in.

Thank you for your considerate replies.
 
Welcome Jimbo, please post your location as it will be helpful to all. I run ethanol free unleaded becasue it is widely available here. Most members just run ethanol unleaded with no problems, the engines aren't like similar era muscle cars where there is a lead/valve train issue. Electronics are quite reliable if not messed with over the years, all US delivered coupes had electric windows front and rear so no manual option exists that I know of, European delivered CSi's often had manual front and electric rear. Rears were electric because space prevented a manual crank system. Manual sunroof would be nice imho, I believe both exist. All model years are quite similar, the major difference starting in 1974 with the big DOT mandated bumpers, just like with all foreign cars. Rust is number one issue, otherwise these cars are a joy to drive and maintain. I've done 1700 mile road trips in mine, others have driven them cross country. Use the search finction for seatbelt upgrades (and other questions you may have), there's a lot already posted there. Good luck in your search, plenty of helpful members here.
 
These will run on unleaded premium all day long. Unless you find a euro coupe most will have electric front windows only earlier 2800CS had manual here generally. Sunroofs can be manual or electric. Seat anchors can be improvised but I personally would not put my grandkids in the back seat, they don’t have the reinforcements and strength of newer cars. Good luck with your search.
 
If you edit your profile, it will list your location with every post. You can add a signature as well if you want. Welcome to the forum.

The 2800cs has drum brakes in the rear, the 3.0cs has disks all around as well as the slightly larger engine. Some owners swap the Zenith carbs for Webers to get more power. The 3.0csi is fuel injected which gives you more power though engines can be swapped out to later FI motors as well as larger motors. All this is relatively easy to deal with, rust is the big question, and is the reason I was able to buy my complete, not quite running coupe for a good price. I'm doing the restoration myself since I like the process and the results. And the savings.

Ian
 
I have always used a lead substitute/value saver additive. Adds that bit of extra protection for just a few dollars a bottle, just a small amount needed per tank of petrol so a couple of bottles a year costs about $30. I have owned a few classic Euro cars with rebuilt engines (both FI and carb cars), and after many, many years of using such an additive, the engines remained extremely smooth, tight, and no tappety noises. I am told there is no hard evidence for needing a lead additive, but to me its like a vitamin pill for my cars. They seem to appreciate this extra effort I go to to look after them :)
 
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I run no-ethanol premium in all of my cars. The lack of ethanol helps with fuel sitting in the tank for extended periods of time, where the ethanol gums up and can degrade rubber and plastic parts. It is available here (outside of the metropolitan area) at 91 octane.

Welcome to the forum!
 
Good stuff, exciting times for you!
Like others here I run on premium unleaded. Here in the U.K. premium UL does not have bio-ethanol in it, which I gather can degrade old rubber fuel hoses. Plus it's higher octane. I wasn't aware that it was more stable in the tank, extra added bonus!

My car has 3-point belts in the back, fitted last year by a specialist. They're anchored in the centre of the parcel deck. Whilst it's not going to be as robust as anything modern, it's a lot better than nothing, and maybe even better than the 40 yr old front belts....
 
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