Gap window when closing door

scottevest

scottevest

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I just noticed that my driver side door has a very large gap when I close the door which is resolved if I roll down the window slightly and roll it up. It is not the same on the passenger door. Imagine this requires a great deal of micro adjustments in the door hinges etc. that will take hours. Any advice?
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What is that seal that you have between the front and rear windows. There should be a removeable chrome piece in there with rubber inside it. Maybe it is the angle but I see no chrome.
 
scottevest said:
Imagine this requires a great deal of micro adjustments in the door hinges etc. that will take hours. Any advice?
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My advice is to spend many hours making micro adjustments. But not to the door hinges (as long as your door gaps are OK). The adjustments should be to the channels that support the window, both front and rear. The front channel is integral with the vent window, so adjusting that alters the fit of the vent window frame to the door seal. Etc. etc. Getting all this correct (and allowing the windows to move freely so those anemic motors can still raise them) is a real challenge.
 
Markos said:
What is that seal that you have between the front and rear windows. There should be a removeable chrome piece in there with rubber inside it. Maybe it is the angle but I see no chrome.
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From everything I can tell it looks the same as the passenger side. Can you shoot me a picture of what it should look like? Here are some more pictures of both sides where I noticed there is a slight gap in the rubber at the top on the passenger side
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Scott,

As Markos and Jmackro have indicated, the problem is primarily in the window frame channel - F and R. As I recall, you'll need to remove the door opener handle, the arm rest, and the door card to get access to the adjustment mechanism. Also, the vertical black seal on the rear windows 'slides' (not very easily, but it does with lubrication and a lot of patience) into a chrome piece that slips onto the front of the window. Look at any pictures of an e9 that shows the side view close ups and you'll see what these are. They are needed on both sides of the car. Probably available from W & N, maybe other places.

Gary
 
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Looks to me that neither of your doors closes flush with the body. The driver's door seems to sag which is a hinge issue. The right side may need only some repositioning of the striker plate on the door jamb. Pretty sure you should get the doors good, and only then go after the windows. I think the doors will resolve without too much difficulty, but the windows.... may be another kettle of fish entirely.
 
all great advice. thanks very much. Will provide to Bill Arnold (mechanic in SF) when I see him on my road trip with my other poodle, Chloe, in November, OR the body shop that is repainting the car in December.
I really and truly value this group. You guys rock! Please visit me in Sun Valley, Idaho
 
I agree, looks like the doors could be more flush, then go after the window channels if necessary.

Honolulu said:
Looks to me that neither of your doors closes flush with the body. The driver's door seems to sag which is a hinge issue. The right side may need only some repositioning of the striker plate on the door jamb. Pretty sure you should get the doors good, and only then go after the windows. I think the doors will resolve without too much difficulty, but the windows.... may be another kettle of fish entirely.
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Anyone have a picture of the vertical chrome strip? It sounds like you're describing a chrome piece that is basically in the position of the non-existent B-pillar? I've never had one on my coupe and it all fits fine
 
Huh, who knew? I drove mine in today and had to go down to the car park to look. Sure enough, chrome strip. Never noticed it before, learn something new about these every day.
 
So is the conclusion that the 1974 model should have the chrome pieces? Any ideas of where I can get them and if they are truly needed? Do they help keep the gap smaller?


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the rubber piece has a 'U' shaped channel that fits over the end of the glass. then the metal trim fits over the rubber. the other end of the rubber fits into a small channel on the metal trim. here are a couple of pics of an old one that was taken off of the car and obviously the rubber is shot ... and the trim isn't in great shape.

when putting the metal trim on be careful not to pound the small slot as this will make getting the rubber into that slot difficult. when i first tried i worked on it for a couple of hours and couldn't get it to go, i replaced the trim and it was back together in a couple of minutes.
b pillar trim 1.JPG
b pillar trim 2.JPG
 
scottevest said:
So is the conclusion that the 1974 model should have the chrome pieces? Any ideas of where I can get them and if they are truly needed? Do they help keep the gap smaller?

Might I add, I believe the main problem lies in the mis aligned door, both horizontal and vertical. The exterior chrom pieces must be in one line and the door and rear panel too. The horizontal drop could possibly be due to sagging hinges on the A post. They do tend to develop 'play' over the years with the heavy doors, specially with electric window openers mechanism. Easy to check, if you pull up on the door, you will be able to tell if there is movement in which case, the hinge needs replacement.
Also, the broken seal on the passenger side/ glass which keeps water out of the door needs replacement. If caught in the rain the door will fill up with water which the E9 metal is allergic too! Will eat up the bottom of the door.

The chrome frame for the seal you can possibly get from any one parting a car. They are of a soft material which tends to scratch and warp over the years, but that is probably not causing the gap.

Keshav
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Extraordinarily helpful information. I really love this group. Thank you very much.


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Call this done. Bill Arnold fixed the doors and window gaps. WOW. The doors close so well now with NO gaps whatsoever. Car is quieter too.

Thanks all.
 
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