mr bump
Well-Known Member
I used por15 on my cs tank 5 years ago as a temp job, it's still in the car as I've had no issues what so ever. I've got a brand new tank to go in but that por15 has really done the job.
Mother of cuss. Had to try to clean more. Anyone know where to get the resistance wire for the fuel sender? Or what gauge or size or metal it is?
I couldn’t find anything searching other than rigging to extend the connection.
Thank you, Chris. Mine’s a 74. So it’s at least 245 & Real OEM says 252, but I don’t know if that’s a real difference—not sure where they’re measuring from. Lots of zinc left, terminals cleaned up nicely and float moves easily. It should work fine after I fix the resistence wire, screen & new O-Ring. Thanks and I’ll holler if I’m wrong.
Is the wire gone?....or is it still there just not soldered to mounting point?Mother of cuss. Had to try to clean more. Anyone know where to get the resistance wire for the fuel sender? Or what gauge or size or metal it is?
I couldn’t find anything searching other than rigging to extend the connection.
Is the wire gone?....or is it still there just not soldered to mounting point?
Full should read 3 Ohms, empty should read 74 ohm.
Is that enough to calculate the wire resistance/cm?
I thought I had the ohms/length spec , but can't find it.
I did find this link, where roughly the same specs as above are mentioned, and an apparent successful repair with "22 gauge copper wire".
https://www.lesliewong.us/category/bmw/page/2/
Jay -- I think I have a used sender laying around somewhere if you want to go that route.
When I did my E3 resto, I came across this guy and his blogs. May be of help to you.
https://www.lesliewong.us/2009/07/26/bmw-fuel-sender-repair/
I used 3 ohm and 74 ohm but obviously did something wrong. Only the top part of my gauge now works, but the whole full to empty cycle is in that, so when the needle reads half empty, the low fuel light comes on.
It's on the list, but I can live with this for the moment.