Guibo concern during 5 speed swap

Thomas76

Thomas76

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Well I thought I had done my research and referenced threads here about the correct guibo to use for the 5 speed swap.
I ordered a meyle unit from FCP that referenced the standard # 26117511454.

BMW Drive Shaft Flex Joint (Giubo) - Meyle HD 3141523102HD

BMW Drive Shaft Flex Joint (Giubo) - Meyle HD 3141523102HD
www.fcpeuro.com

What I received is considerably thinner than what was in the car(assuming that was correct?).
1. This thinner guibo would seemingly affect how much the driveshaft is shortened.
2. If used it looks like the driveshaft will be tight against the output flange of trans.

Thoughts or experience of going down this road?
New unit is on driveshaft in pic
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I use the later model guibo with my 5-speed. I trimmed about 1/4" off the tranny snout so it wouldn't bottom out in the centering bearing. You'll need the shorter bolts as well. The slip joint in the driveshaft should allow for the small change in shaft length.
 
Mike Goble said:
I use the later model guibo with my 5-speed. I trimmed about 1/4" off the tranny snout so it wouldn't bottom out in the centering bearing. You'll need the shorter bolts as well. The slip joint in the driveshaft should allow for the small change in shaft length.
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Mike, you referenced "the later style". Is that what I bought?
 
It’s hard to tell from the picture but I think the guibo for an automatic is thinner like the one shown….
 
Thomas--The Guibo you removed is # 26111107832. My 5-speed had the FCP Meyle with the same FCP part# ( not the HD version like what you just bought). It was cracked after 20K miles in 4 years. I was told to use the E34 M5 Guibo made by FEBI # 26112226527. It is 10mm thinner than the Meyle and looks like your HD. It is also very hard rubber compared to the cracked Meyle. You have to use 10 mm spacers to make it the same thickness as your old guibo. I bought 5mm spacers from McMaster Carr and put them on both sides of the FEBI. You then can use your existing 70 mm bolts. I suggest buying new bolts and locking nuts # 26111107834 bolt and lock nut # 07129900047.
I am now getting a drive train vibration at 30-40 MPH. The car was jacked up to inspect all moving parts and run-out. This has been done twice in the last 200 miles and all seems to be correct..
I am going to replace the FEBI guibo with an OEM full thickness guibo (no spacers & no Meyle) to see if that gives me the ride I had before all of these replacements.
I hope this is the solution for my particular car with the 5-speed and LSD.
 

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There are:

3 different Guibos available …

45mm original for manual transmissions
Known as “grenades” because they have no thread reinforcement
And they crack and disintegrate


30mm original for automatic transmissions


35mm used in M based cars
Typically used in 5 speed conversions
Thread reinforced


There are:

2 different driveshafts available …

Manual driveshafts have a long “nose” to accommodate the 45mm Guibo

Automatic driveshafts have a long short nose for the 30mm Guibo


There are at least 3 ways to make a 5 speed speed transmission output shaft fit an original manual or automatic driveshaft when upgrading to a later thread reinforced Guibo-


Cut 10mm off the output shaft
We have done it but not for years- there is no going back!

Add 10mm of spacers
Our current solution is head bolt washers
The original BMW spacers used to shim hand built cars driveshafts from the 60-70’s
aren’t available..

Drill out the driveshaft
Done it- won’t do it again


Caution when installing newer reinforced Guibos- install them backwards and they will unspool 100’ of white cord underneath your car going down the freeway

Caution when installing Guibos- the arrows are on there for a purpose

Caution when installing full thread or partial thread bolts- we use only correct driveshaft bolts..
 
When did they go to plastic instead of cord? Was surprised to see a failed SGF original showing only whitish plastic inside rubber...no more "hairballs"?
 
The cracked Meyle in my post above has no direction arrows. That was installed in 2020 and found cracked in Jan 2025 sometime before a 20K mile inspection. I bought that in April 2020 from FCP Euro. Their lifetime guarantee states that you buy the same item again and return the failed item for credit. No thanks!
 

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Yes I have arrows on the new unit, but common sense is not telling me what they are telling me.
Arrow Pointing towards head of bolt or nut?
They alternate every other.

PXL_20250314_210403656.jpg
 
Has anyone bought # 26111107832 from the BMW dealer? If so, are there any marks indicating what company made it?
 
Thomas76 said:
Yes I have arrows on the new unit, but common sense is not telling me what they are telling me.
Arrow Pointing towards head of bolt or nut?
They alternate every other.

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Factory literature indicates arrow pointing to metal flange; not always bolt head or nut dependent.
Note: Repair manual picture for CS does show bolt head against coupling, but arrows always against flange; in order to achieve this orientation the coupling is installed first on driveshaft, then driveshaft with coupling and bolts is raised into position.

On newer models, note (if applicable) "recessed guides" reference - alternately protruding so only goes in one way, arrows to flanges.
Promising experiment with aluminum cage couplings was terminated.
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The reason I put the head of the bolt on the guibo is that the bolt remains fixed in position while you rotate the nut to tighten it. If the nut is on the guibo side it will result in twisting pressure on the metal sleeve in the guibo. Of equal importance is the orientation of the guibo in the forward and reverse directions. The thick sections of the guibo are compressed in the forward drive direction.
 
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Wait a minute! Which is it? (e39 M5 on left e93 M3 right)
Maybe the newer plastic insert ones are not susceptible to cord twisting/preload - or is it the "shiny" bolts? ;)
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Note:
On the F06, F10, F12, F13 - S63 a silicone flexible disc is installed instead of the conventional rubber part flexible disc.
?

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Maybe the answer is to hold whatever is against coupling and turn the other end, whether nut or bolthead?
At least we know where the arrows should point.

Original design is all rubber between the metal hole brackets <>
The internally reinforced disc is stronger, not relying on rubber shear/compression alone.
From SGF:
"Unlike common rubber couplings that work with shear load or pressure load on the rubber, the tension load principle ensures that the cord inlays transmit most of the load, providing a better tolerance to shock loads and a higher power density ratio, resulting in the ability to transmit higher torque with a smaller coupling.
SGF Couplings are made in Germany, with SGF stating it has manufactured more than 90 percent of OEM Flex Couplings for vehicles since 1946.
No one prefers to work under pressure – and that goes for materials, too. It is much better to pull together. This is the basic idea behind our technology, which is based on the SGF tractive force principle."

Short article regarding driving direction/compression force as pointed out by Mike

Drew: manufacturer likely Goetze for OE "832", mentions different hardness rubber is available.
 
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