harmonic balancer

I'm still waiting on some hardware from the dealership, but I do have a question. I got a pulley that looks like it will work, but it is different. The one from the car is much heavier because it is a solid ring of steel where the 8 bolts go through. The new one is light because it is just a thin strip of metal where the bolts go through. The pulleys appear to be in alignment when held up to one another. Will the newer one work or do I need to find the exact same one? I realize I will need shorter bolts for the new pulley if it will work.

Thanks.
 
You need to match the pulley, the dampener and the flange - the holes are not equi-distant
use a marker to index it all. Note the pin on the flange.
 
Yes. I should have tried to do that before posting. I just took a casual glance at the holes, but I see they don't match up. I won't say where I got it from, but according to their guide, it was supposed to work. I will just send it back. Looks like I will be ordering a pulley...again.
 
You want- I will buy one from the salvage shop and ship priority.
gonna be expensive- Let me know.
 
Just wanted to update you Don since I have your tool. I have decided to make the Bavaria into a more sport oriented car. I am removing the power steering and the a/c bracket etc, so I only need the pulley made into the balancer. So, I have everything I need except I will need shorter bolts. I know some on here would disagree with the power steering removal, but I really don't like it. It is too sensitive for my tastes.
 
You will never notice it after 5mph
Are you installing a standard box?
Measure bolts EXACTLY- or they will rip your timing cover to shreds.
You can always mock up and grind excess off.
 
I don't have a standard box. Will that be necessary in the long run? The only standard box I have ever seen for sale was a quick ratio, which I would love to have, but wow $$$$$.

So far I have just done most of the suspension. Long term plan, I think, is to make it a close to period hot rod of sorts. I was thinking an M90 with a built head and triples. Unless there is something along those lines that is a better idea?
 
Always on the left coast...

There is one not more than 10 miles from my house, but it is running on 4 cylinders and engine rebuilding is beyond my current abilities. :-?
 
Allen, do you have info on the local car? an engine is much cheaper than rust repair. Sure someone here may be interested.

Thanks
 
Wow, that's amazing. Never heard of that happening.
Just a thought. On the S38 motor which is a M30 block with a different head the front hub that the balancer mounts to can crack. There are after market hubs made that are better steel than BMW used. I'm not suggesting getting one just suggesting you look it over very carefully to see if it's cracked?
Yes, just put a nut on a few months ago and the torque is about 350. You wonder if you'll ever get there........ waiting for the torque wrench to "click".

e9allan said:
The nuts holding the pulley on the balancer didn't loosen - the giant 36mm nut holding the balancer/pulley assembly on did. Hard to say how long I was driving around until the balancer worked its way off the crank. Yes, it made a hell of a noise beating around until it fell out. I looked in the rearview and there it was laying on the street. Luckily, I didn't see where it damaged anything else on the way out other than a few scratches on the oil pan. Unfortunately, the pulley isn't useable and will have to be removed from the balancer and replaced. I also need to source a woodruff key. I have the nut.

This engine has never been apart that I can tell. I have been meaning to replace the engine mounts - wonder if the extra vibration helped coax it off.
Click to expand...
 
Peter - I was referring to the Euro 635 for an engine swap, not an e9 that is 10 miles away.

I don't have a torque wrench that goes anywhere near that. I will be using my internal torqueometer. In other words, when I get a hernia, I will know it reached spec.
 
You have talent.... But Please do call when its time!

I don't have a torque wrench that goes anywhere near that. I will be using my internal torqueometer. In other words, when I get a hernia, I will know it reached spec.
 
.Okay! I got all the parts now. I went ahead and removed the hood, radiator and fan just to make it easier to get to the crank.

Are there any tricks to getting the old front seal out? That seems like it is going to be a bear.

Hopefully, I will put it all back together tomorrow. Don, how about I give you my number and you can call me at a good time for you?
five 4 zero 4o 6 0119. You can call anytime tonight or tomorrow.

Also, I am going to remove the a/c radiator thing while I am in there and the power steering pump. I have a question about that. I know I can just get rid of the pump and block the hole in the reservoir. Can I get rid of the reservoir and the hose that goes to the steering box? Do I just need a bolt that will take the place of the banjo fitting?
 
Don,

Not sure what happened there. I didn't have/couldn't find your number in your profile, so I put mine up so you could call when it was best for you. Sorry, if I somehow offended. It wasn't mine intention.

I got it all back together yesterday. I followed the sequenced you mentioned in one of the previous posts. So far, so good. It seems like it runs smoother now than I remember it ever running. Makes me wonder how long the nut was missing. I did go ahead and wrestle out that a/c condenser core wile I had the radiator out. Oh, and I found the old woodruff key. It was sitting inside of the old front seal.

Needless to say, every now and then will be putting my hand on the crank nut just to make sure it is still there from now on.

Thanks again for all the advice, the tool, and the parts. Please let me know what I owe you, and I will enclose a check in the box with the tool.

Many thanks,

Allan
 
Hooray! For you!
Somehow missed your post from being too busy.
Sounds like you succeeded wonderfully.
How does twenty bucks sound to cover the shipping?

I will pm you my ph. # again

Don
 
Glad it was just you being too busy.

$20 sounds great to me!

You don't know off the top of your head what size bolts I would need to replace the hollow ones in the steering box do you? I don't want to take them out until I have the replacements ready to go, but if I must, I must.
 
call me at the shop tomorrow and we will see if we can figure it out.
[after 10:00]!
 
Don,

I am sending the tool back today. Kept it for a few days out of paranoia of the nut coming back off since I have no idea what it is torqued at, but I am okay with it now.

Also, I haven't gotten any pm's if you have sent them, so I still don't have that phone number. Not sure if it is a problem with my inbox or what.

I cannot read the name on the address label (and I am left handed) :p. I have the address to return it to, but I can't tell the name.
 
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