fast3.0csi
Active Member
I fried my LSR trying to replace the wiper switch and fuse box. The old rectangle gray box near the fuse box is dated. Have anyone replaced if with a new relay including the wiring of the new relay? Thanks
HELP... Load Shedding Relay Conversion????
- Thread starter fast3.0csi
- Start date
Misthread- sorry!
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jmackro
Well-Known Member
My LS relay melted a few years ago when my voltage regulator went berserk and caused the alternator to put out 20 volts or so. The LS relay is a critical component - even when I fixed my charging system, I had no headlights and other electrical components without it. I solved my problem by simply installing a good, used LS relay. But I appreciate fast3.0csi's question about a more modern solution.
Recognizing that my car would be "dead in the water" if the LS relay failed, I performed a hack repair on my old unit. I attached a heavy jumper across the two load terminals and carry that part in my trunk. If the LS relay fails again, I could theoretically plug in this jumpered unit to restore functionality. Yes, I would need to unplug the relay or disconnect the battery every time I stopped, but at least it would let me limp home.
A more elegant solution would be to use an old LS relay as a base to plug into the socket, gut the old relay, and run wires from the base to a modern relay. The LS circuit handles a lot of current, so you should probably use a relay rated at 50 amps or so. Most automotive relays are rated at 30a continuous; a hack solution would be to use two of these in parallel.
I strongly doubt you could find a generic 12v 50a relay that would plug into the e9 LS relay socket.
Recognizing that my car would be "dead in the water" if the LS relay failed, I performed a hack repair on my old unit. I attached a heavy jumper across the two load terminals and carry that part in my trunk. If the LS relay fails again, I could theoretically plug in this jumpered unit to restore functionality. Yes, I would need to unplug the relay or disconnect the battery every time I stopped, but at least it would let me limp home.
A more elegant solution would be to use an old LS relay as a base to plug into the socket, gut the old relay, and run wires from the base to a modern relay. The LS circuit handles a lot of current, so you should probably use a relay rated at 50 amps or so. Most automotive relays are rated at 30a continuous; a hack solution would be to use two of these in parallel.
I strongly doubt you could find a generic 12v 50a relay that would plug into the e9 LS relay socket.
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jmackro
Well-Known Member
All I can tell you is that my old one is marked: "Hella". I painted the case red so I wouldn't confuse it with an unmodified part. So any p/n on the case is gone.
fast3.0csi said:
Here are the relay pinouts:
Coil: pins 85 and 86 (the two 1/4" wide tabs)
Load: pins 87 and 30/51 (the two 3/8" wide tabs)
Here are a couple of photos of the innards of my modified relay. You can see where I used two brass screws to attach a sheet of aluminum across the load terminals. I had to use a nylon screw to re-attach one of the load terminals to the bakelite base - it had previously been secured by the coil armature:
Attachments
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