help to indentify the layout of the jack and tools in the trunk

Jack & lug wrench placement--and spare wheel storage

Chris: The early jacks had a very small crank arm used to raise and lower same--the one shown is the same jack that's in BLUMAX.

DeQuincey: Your jack is correctly oriented--however the use of two pieces of dense closed cell foam is a good way to isolate the metal to metal contact with trunk bottom. Also-your lug wrench should then be placed beneath the jack if you are seeking correct placement.

And--although your approach is novel for securing your lug wrench on top of your spare wheel--for the spare wheel to be correctly secured it should be done with a lug nut to the centrally located upright threaded bolt that then contacts the
u-shaped cross piece that's the hold down between the lug nut and wheel--said cross piece hold down part was original to all E-9's--US bound or otherwise.

HTH
 
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Stevehose said:
nicely done, you've inspired me to fix mine! (once I am done with my current project - cleaning/greasing/tightening the front power window units).
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we are going in opposite directions, but both towards excellence !, that is good

my intention, this winter, is to completely dissasemble the doors, to fit new door brakes, tear down and reinstall new nuts-bolts in all mechanic assemblies and clean, grease, new rubbers, new door-water-foil, i bought all the components in w&n to have them in stock for the overhaul

remark: any advise on the best grease for the mechanical elements inside the door ? some choices: Lithium, Molibden, roll-bearings grease, others ?
i assume to use graphite powder inside the lock, but i would like to hear from you in the other cases

regards
 
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Stevehose said:
nicely done, you've inspired me to fix mine! (once I am done with my current project - cleaning/greasing/tightening the front power window units).
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for when you decide to overcome this work:

first i took off the paint with sand paper
then i cleaned all the old grease + paint dust with gasoline and a brush
then i poured rust converter, wipe off excess with a cloth
let it dry for hours
then prepare for paint covering the top gears and the internal screw-channel with rolled soft paper to avoid the paint entering the screw
also i made a hole in the basis of the jack to allow a thin cable to pass through to hang it to dry the paint
in the process (from the first paint layer to the second one), i have to move the position of the moving part of the jack to let the paint reach the part of the channel that in the first attempt was shadowed by the mentioned part (i hope you understand this (english is tough for me))

regards
 
blumax said:
Chris: The early jacks had a very small crank arm used to raise and lower same--the one shown is the same jack that's in BLUMAX.

DeQuincey: Your jack is correctly oriented--however the use of two pieces of dense closed cell foam is a good way to isolate the metal to metal contact with trunk bottom. Also-your lug wrench should then be placed beneath the jack if you are seeking correct placement.

And--although your approach is novel for securing your lug wrench on top of your spare wheel--for the spare wheel to be correctly secured it should be done with a lug nut to the centrally located upright threaded bolt that then contacts the
u-shaped cross piece that's the hold down between the lug nut and wheel--said cross piece hold down part was original to all E-9's--US bound or otherwise.

HTH
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hi mr. murray

thanks for your comments

regarding your comment to chirs, is perfectly right, but also consider that the hexagonal nut in this old version jack is there to use the lug wrench to operate the jack

and regarding the correct position of the lug wrench and the securement of the wheel I will consider your advise and i will work on it
 
HB Chris said:
That is the first jack without a handle that I have seen.
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hi chris

is yours like this one in the pic ? (the big one i mean)

if it is not the same, can you post a pic of yours ?
021220101455.jpg
 
No, it is like yours but with a longer handle to raise the jack, you can see it in this photo.
 

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Use of early jack to raise your Coupe

After correct placement of standard factory jack, lug wrench and wheel chock have been mastered.

Should an emergency arise where there is a need to jack up your Coupe--for example--a flat tire in the middle of nowhere--several real words of caution have come from my notebook of actual roadside of experiences.
1) Be sure you have stopped Coupe on a level surface before attempting a lift.
2) Be sure you have blocked the opposite wheel from moving as you raise the car.
3) Before lifting affected wheel off the ground--attempt loosening lug nuts.
4) If unable to loosen--just lower jack and call for emergency road service.
5) When calling assure road service that a low profile jack is required for lifting your Coupe.
6) If they arrive without same don't let them try with standard profile jack.

Why all these suggested notes of caution--well--in the over 400,000 miles of service with BLUMAX and another 125,000 with other Coupes owned the issues I have cautioned against have all come into play at one time or the other whenever flats have occured and these rules were not carefully followed on each and every occasion.

PS While it has not happened to me there are many of you who live in hostile weather climates--If you hear a strange crunching noise when attempting to raise your Coupe with standard equipment--CEASE LIFTING AT ONCE--the tin worms have succeeded and you will fold metal if you continue!!

HTH
 
Chock block--storage

Originally chockblock I had was a wood triangle about 8" long--maybe supplier hadn't delivered the new design in time for delivery or the original was possibly lost by the 1st owner--don't carry it any more. Also--there was no caddy supplied in my early Coupe. If I had a factory issue chock I would secure it between the spare tire tread and edge of wheel well--believe it would clear the trunk board. Perhaps I had better get this missing part.

Fortunately it's been around 10-12 years since having a flat tire on the road. Last one was poorly handled by AAA roadside service on the side of the of the 55 Freeway Southbound at the MacArthur exit--his too high profile jack slipped and damaged the passenger side outer rocker cover and s/s trim piece. So BLUMAX now has both new parts supplied by the AAA contract station responsible for inflicting the wound.
 
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The chock is too wide to sit on its side in the spare tire tray. Mine is in the trunk caddy as Peder suggested.
 
Surely there is someone here that can positively identify where the chock was stored when the cars were delivered by the dealer?

(and don't call me Shirley - RIP Leslie Nielson)
 
Well, BMW called it a wedge or 'keil.' It was included on the PACKZETTEL, a paper sheet that was attached under the spare tire cover. Interesting that it lists Unterlegkeil (wedge) but there is no translation in Google other than keil. Same for PACKZETTEL which should mean packing list or something close to that. I have a copy but the upload button thinks it is too large to attach. Another bit of useless trivia for discerning coupe enthusiasts. :)
 
Wedge trivia--as in "keil"--perhaps boat keel

That may explain why I had literally received "a wedge" made of wood--and due its very simple design it fit nicely in the space beneath the trunkboard.

Try standing your metal wedge upright for stowing it in the wheel well--might fit between the spare and the wheel well side while still clearing the trunk board above. Out of sight and not cluttering the trunk.

BTW--many Bavarias had a special section of their caddy that was dsigned to stow the wheel wedge--based on the different location of fuel filler piping there was more room in the E-3's for that nice addition.
 
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Stevehose said:
Surely there is someone here that can positively identify where the chock was stored when the cars were delivered by the dealer?

(and don't call me Shirley - RIP Leslie Nielson)
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Is it possible that a euro had it stowed in one place and the BMW to US import in a different place due to a "Hoffmann" spec??
 
I don't know if this is correct but here is a shot of where mine is and was when I bought my 2800 CS in 1980. It stays there very well and I continue to keep it there.
 

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Here is my solution for the wedge. I got the trunk caddy out of a doner 3.0 although people tell me this is out of a Bavaria. The black bag in the third copartment is an oil pouch that is marketed by bmp, has a bmw logo on it Joshb
74 CSI Agave
 

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I keep my wedge in the caddy as well, as you noted yours is from an e3 but it still works.
 

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Jack length

Can someone tell me how long this jack measures? I see some for other models on ebay, in particular 5-series that look very similar but not sure if they are too long to fit. Thanks
 
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