i would expect a cilinder key here
but obviously the fork needs a similar shape to host it inside
but obviously the fork needs a similar shape to host it inside
Help with timing chain wear and camshaft-distributor drive slot question???
- Thread starter Stevehose
- Start date
and then recalled them
I'll figure something out to lock the 2 pieces together.stphers
Well-Known Member
Set it all up, mark it, then get a machine shop to cut a groove in it for a key way Maybe?
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
Yes, something along those lines, I won't be able to get it to a shop but perhaps someone can get to my garage and cut something so I can insert something to lock them together.
Response from Schrick:
Hello,
it seems you have an version with not fixed “distributor nose”.
This was original glued in, it can be possible that it has get lose.
Most easy way is to pull the part out clean it and glue it in with Loctite high strength, or something similar. (We would use Loctite 601, you could also use any similar product)
Another way would be to drill a hole into the gap between “distributor nose part” and camshaft, threading this hole and put a grub screw (M5) in it and also secure with Loctite.
But just glue in should be enough.
Well isn't that special! As @sfdon said, they used a Motronic cam and crammed a nose piece in, obviously glue is not enough. Going to have to pin or grub screw it. If that had failed and spun around in the cam, causing the engine to die mysteriously, it would've taken a year to figure out why.
Onward!
Hello,
it seems you have an version with not fixed “distributor nose”.
This was original glued in, it can be possible that it has get lose.
Most easy way is to pull the part out clean it and glue it in with Loctite high strength, or something similar. (We would use Loctite 601, you could also use any similar product)
Another way would be to drill a hole into the gap between “distributor nose part” and camshaft, threading this hole and put a grub screw (M5) in it and also secure with Loctite.
But just glue in should be enough.
Well isn't that special! As @sfdon said, they used a Motronic cam and crammed a nose piece in, obviously glue is not enough. Going to have to pin or grub screw it. If that had failed and spun around in the cam, causing the engine to die mysteriously, it would've taken a year to figure out why.
Onward!
Last edited:
Drill and tap 180* from existing 1/2 pin hole for easier, surer full pin hole?
Did you know this when you bought it, or are you just now finding out?
Just finding out
Update to close this ordeal. Today I drilled out the nose piece where it meets with the 3/4 hole in the cam. I figured this would be easier than starting a new hole 50/50 because the cam is quite hard and I wanted to use this as a guide to drilling the softer metal and I didn’t want to be breaking drill bits. Pretty stressful drilling into one’s cam but managed to get it done. Then I tapped the hole for a set screw. This was highly stressful so I took my time with plenty of thread cleaning and oil and 45 min later it was tapped:
Then I inserted the screw with Loctite and tightened it in. Because 1/4 of the hole is into the nose piece, then covered by the distributor drive piece, there is no moving this anymore!
Onward to the crank nut!
Then I inserted the screw with Loctite and tightened it in. Because 1/4 of the hole is into the nose piece, then covered by the distributor drive piece, there is no moving this anymore!
Onward to the crank nut!
stphers
Well-Known Member
Excellent work! Don't forget to bend over the ends of those cam gear locktabs
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
Yes will do, that sproket is coming off in favor of an NOS one.
Did you come to any conclusion on the uneven wear on the timing chain?
Well done on the drilling and tapping!
No, other than I’m replacing the guide & tensioner, chain, cam sprocket, and possibly the crank sprocket.
Yes, this is an issue with certain Schrick cams for use with traditional distributor drive configuration. Meaning if you have a Schrick in your engine that is a few years old, you could have this issue. I suspect over time it may loosen enough to affect timing or disengage all together. Factory cams not an issue.
Also, I put the nose slot in line with the sprocket TDC bolt axis, this resulted in the 3/4 hole being exactly in between the bottom edges of the fork, 180 degrees from TDC, as seen in the picture.