How do I move my post?

[Gor]

Hey guys

Looks like I may have posted my previous post in the wrong forum!

Can it be moved from Projects and Restorations to General Discussion?

Trying to gain access to locked boot/trunk (2800cs) without a key.

Would drilling through the lock barrel be advised or does anyone know of
another method without causing too much damage?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and any jokes will be laughed at.

Kind regards

Gor

 

[Arde]

I have never done it but I recall there is no access to the trunk through the rear seat. I faced this on a 1980 E12 and had to have the lock drilled out.

The only trunk opening I recall is removing the gas tank, but that seems too drastic.

Are you missing the key, is the lock jammed, or you forgot the key inside the trunk?

 

[bluecoupe30!]

access to trunk

Hey Gor,
I recommend contacting an apparition, make your best deal, they can access any locked quarters, no problem. Finding one may be a problem, but if memory serves, apparitions can usually be found about 3 AM, inside OR outside your favourite pub/bar/watering hole. Best of luck....hey you promised to laugh!
Mike

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

there is a way

Remembering from my college days I had a Bavaria and I took the emblem off the trunk and used a coat hanger to fish for the trigger. I think it would help to get a good picture of what you're looking to do in there, I mean I don't remember if you just had to position the wire in there so when you push on the button it hits the latch. I think that's the way I did it.

 

[Gazz]

Do you know any car thieves?

Check Google under the very helpful for wanna be car thieves- "how to be a car thief" -or similar, for this as there seems to be many ways to open locks.

 

[Gor]

Arde

Hey Arde, Gazz,Peter and Mike


Thanks for your prompt replies.

Arde...There is no access from rear seats, although I can just about see inside from speaker holes in rear parcel shelf. I put my mobile phone in there and took some pics of the lock area, but don't really think they will be of much help.

Yes, the keys were mislaid long ago, as I'm sure you may recall, since we have already talked about that, on previous posts last year.

I have, earlier today, posted (in the wrong place) an update to that ignition lock problem, now solved, but the new ignition key only fits the ignition and drivers door!

It looks like I will have to try drilling through the lock barrel. It will be interesting to find what is lurking in the boot, after 30 years.I can see some chrome strips, could be from under the doors, over the rocker covers, and what looks like a set of new brake shoes, but I really want/need to inspect the spare tyre well, and other parts, for any sign of rust damage.

I will let you know what I find.

Peter...Thanks for the "removing the emblem and wire coat hanger trick", I presumed the emblem was bolted on from inside, and didn't think there would be a hole big enough, so will take some more photos of the area tomorrow, (from inside) and consider that one, it should certainly do less damage.

Lastly Mike and Gazz... thanks for the jokes, it's good to laugh.

Kind regards

Gor

 

[lloyd]

Drilling out the key should be a last resort. Any half-decent locksmith should have little problem picking the lock without destroying it.

You might be able to access the latching mechanism via the fuel filler flap, by dislodging the rubber that isolates the filler neck from the rest of the trunk. There are those small blind plugs that can be popped out too.

 

[Arde]

Oh, yes I recall your story Gor and I am glad the ignition is solved. Is the car moving again? The speaker opening is good, you can either drop a drone and look around from the inside or borrow a colonoscopy scope from a gastro friend, hospitals don't really use them 24/7 and it is all about the sharing economy, isn't it?

I also recall you claimed to be a slim fit dude. Slim enough to slide through the speaker opening?

 

[Gor]

Hey Lloyd,

Thanks for that...especially that diagram. I do have a workshop manual showing all the locks... except the trunk! Getting through by means of petrol flap is something I had not thought of and I will certainly give that a try first. If I can open it by that method without destroying the lock, I will let you know.

Locksmiths seem to be very expensive in London, they want to charge by the hour, and seem to think picking the lock may take hours or not even work, it could be seized, considering that I've had the car in storage for over 30 years, and the trunk probably hasn't been opened during that time. If they then decide to drill through, I might as well try to do it myself.
I was considering having the coupe restored, but may have to pass her on, so not really bothered about breaking the lock, I really just need to access the trunk so I can determine if there is any signs of rust damage in that area (for valuation purposes)

Kind regards

Gor

 

[Gor]

Hey Arde,

I'm glad your memory has returned, and you still have that same excellent sense of humour. Your posts on these forums give me, and I'm sure many other forum members, much amusement.
I do not own a drone, and although it certainly could be fun to fly it inside the boot, that method may cause more harm than good. I may invest in one anyhow, now you mention it.
One of my ex wives works at a hospital, but she is out of the country at present, so I can't ask her to borrow the tool you mentioned.
Yes, the car is moving now...please refer to my recent post in Projects and Restorations for that update. It might make you laugh!
Some would call me slim, I prefer to think of myself as lithe...but try as i might, I can't squeeze my body through that speaker hole. My arms are actually very strong, for their size, and I can push right in past the bicep... still just not long enough to reach the lock mechanism, I will try again tomorrow...
Kind regards
Gor

 

[Arde]

Thanks Gor for the enlightening progress report. I did run into a good friend that reinvented himself from a traditional rat race entrepreneur to selling drones at jet-set beach resorts. I was very impressed by what these drones can do. If you take that path I can see him doing drone demos showing this new remarkable application. Unlocking locks from the inside.

Hospitals! One of the few jobs my wife can have that makes coming home a relief rather than a burden.

Good luck and I am off to search your P&R thread.

A.

 

[Gor]

boot lock mechanism

Hey guys,

Thanks for you replies...

I thought to try Peters method first, (removing the rear emblem) as I believed this to be the closest point of access. I prized off the badge, taking great care not to damage the surrounding paintwork (by sliding thin plastic cards, and later thicker plywood strips, between the bodywork and emblem) before inserting small metal tools, and gently levering away. Off she popped, revealing two tiny access points, and I began delving in with the 'coat hanger trick'. This truly was 'fishing in the dark' so I soon became disheartened and moved on to Lloyds suggestion, via the fuel filler flap. By simply removing the rubber surround and pulling out the filler neck, one can clearly see the lock mechanism. I can even reach inside and am just able to touch the lock with my fingertips! Using a variety of implements I am able to push, pull and probe at the lock, whilst still being able to see exactly what I'm doing! Trouble is I still don't know quite what to do to in order to release the latch. I have taken a 'close up' photo and will try to attach that to this post, so you can see where I am at with it.
Any more help, suggestions and jokes will be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Gor

 

[HB Chris]

You won't be able to reach to release mechanism as it faces rearward and the front is covered by the cardboard vinyl covered panel.

 

[Gor]

Chris

Chris,

Just to be clear, are you saying I could not access the trigger from inside the trunk, because it faces rearward? or might I still be able to gain access if I could somehow remove a small portion of the vinyl covering adjacent to, and thereby exposing, the key lock barrel?
Thanks for your help.
Kind regards
Gor

 

[HB Chris]

If the vinyl/cardboard cover was removed you would still need to reach the rear side of the lock and push the lever forward, it takes quite a bit of pressure.

 

[Gor]

Stevehose... Its the fumes from the thirty year old petrol....

I shall reply to your 'Keys' comments later, when/if I come down from this 'high'

Kind regardsssshhhh

Gor

 

[Gor]

'High as a kite'

High guys...
I think I am now slowly beginning to return to my senses, and so will try typing this update. If any of you saw on the newspaper headlines 'Elderly man, presumed solvent abuser, found dead in freezing London garage!!!', don't worry, it wasn't me!
Firstly, I should reply to Stevehose comment on keys, from my thread entitled 'Ignition key' which I had misposted on the Projects and Restorations Forum, and is now continued here.
Stevehose... Thanks but no thanks. After careful consideration I decided not to follow up your suggestion. Some may call me naive, or even gullible, and I would, on occasion tend to agree, but knowing that a competent locksmith (Stuart at Keys for Classics for example), no affiliation, can produce a working key from a photo, I thought this could be trouble, if an auto thief were to ever happen upon it. With a little research they could identify my vehicle, making it even more vulnerable, and if this 'rare and sought after coupe'
was then stolen, the insurance company might hold me responsible, for posting 'without due care and attention'... I rest my case!
Besides, there is no need for me to post a photo of my new ignition/drivers door key, since I have in my possession an original BMW Owners 2800cs handbook, which I had discovered inside the glove compartment, (no lock). This booklet clearly shows, in pictures, the differences between the master and valet keys, explains which locks each of them operate, and why there is a need for two keys. On comparing my new key with these pictures, I have determined that mine is the master key, and if this is true, then some of the locks must have, at sometime in the past, been replaced.
Damianh...thanks for your 'creative solutions', especially the 'lit cigarette in mouth', warning; but this should also include 'and don't breath the fumes'!!! Once ones arm is pushed fully though the fuel filler flap hole, ones nose is almost touching the fuel tank inlet spout. After spending some time in this position, fruitlessly poking and prodding away with lengths of wire, the assault on the nostrils of 30 year old petrol became overwhelming. The 'high' was something else, and is not be recommended to anyone, even the hardest of solvent abusers, unless under strict medical supervision from their doctor. I am left wondering 'how many of the precious few brain cells that I have left did I massacre with that sortie?
It's amazing what can be discovered through the fuel filler flap...
I have tried to attach some photos taken from inside the boot/trunk, showing the condition of the vinyl surround, before I destroy it. You may also notice that the toolbox appears to be missing, some chrome strips, which could be from the sill/rocker cover and door tread, and an old cardboard box containing four old but unused brake shoes.
...more on this later... if you are interested.
Kind regards
Gor

 

[Stevehose]

good deal, glad you found a source for the different key patterns.

 

[Arde]

Nice color!

 

[Gor]

Is it a

Colorado

then?
The plate does look slightly damaged, but the paint code appears to read

02.

I can also notice some colour at the plate edge, so does this imply that some paintwork has been done in that area, since first leaving the factory?
Please see attachment pic.