How much steering play is okay in e9?

[taylorcom]

It could be #6. After searching the web, the closest image I found is the one below (posted on this site by Ed G.). The missing bolt goes in the hole just above and to the left of the arm that connects at the bottom of the box. (The 2 bolts that go in the hole to the immediate right of the arm are in place.)

I just took a second look and noticed that when I turn the u-joint, the box itself shifts position ... not good.

 

[Blinkling]

Good detective work!

I hope the bolt is missing versus having broken. It will be more of a hassle if any part of a bolt is still in that bolt hole. Maybe stick a piece of wire in there and feel around?

I think all three bolts are identical so you should be able to take a second one out and find a match for all of them.

 

[taylorcom]

Blinkling, Yes, good idea to make sure the threaded bolt-end is not broken off (a nightmare scenario). Are you sure all 3 bolts are the same size? From 3moon's diagram, there may be a difference between the single bolt on the left and the 2 bolts on the right.

 

[HB Chris]

2 10x45, 1 10x70 RealOEM.com is your friend

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts 2.5CS-3.0CSL 3.0CS Hydro steering-oil carrier parts

www.realoem.com

 

[wilies13]

huuu....missing bolts on the housing of a steering box;
together with "play"
and at least for me unclear (mechanics) history are making me nervous.....

be careful my friend !

 

[taylorcom]

Thanks, HB Chris. I think the one 10x70 is what I need. Oddly, when I searched on the part number, Google came up with this, indicating that the same size bolt secures the front bumper assembly to the frame: https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/bmw-hex_bolt-31111136250.html

 

[taylorcom]

Just the one missing bolt, wilies13 ... will be careful, thanks. I've owned the car since '85, so know its history pretty well. However, I've no idea where that bolt went.

 

[pickman]

I too am suspect of the steering lash or lag on the 73 E9. All components are new and sometimes at certain speeds it feels like I am aiming the car not steering. Not sure if there is an adjustment on the steering gear to reduce the lag?? Years ago we built and raced M38A1 (army jeeps) these you definitely aimed no steering just hope you aim right.

 

[taylorcom]

It appears that Blinkling's warning was correct: I poked into the hole with a wire and the bolt does seem to have broken. The 2 bolts on the righthand side of the steering box needed tightening, but feel solid.

Now I'm wondering how the bolt broke ... is there that much force on the steering box?

Next question is how to get the box out of the way so I can drill out the broken bolt end. Input is welcome.

 

[3moons]

Spray down the broken bolt area with PB blaster or equivalent and let it work in overnight.

Have you confirmed that the bolt broke off at or below the sub frame mounting surface? Anything left above to grab onto? If not, read on…

Before removing the steering box, and with the two remaining bolts slightly tightened down, I would insert into the box bolt hole a snug(~10mm OD?) sleeve/bushing/tube/pipe cut down(leave it long enough to pull out with pliers later) and appropriate to the drill bit diameter to function as one of these:

That way the drilled hole should be on axis for the bolt extractor. I don’t know if you could use the extractor with the steering box in place. Either way, doing this first should make it easier.

No E9 in my driveway to look at but, on my E3 that’s a real tight space to work in. Obviously, separating the ball joints at the Pitman arm and tie rod would give you more room.

You might have to use a right angle drill or other angle attachment to get in there. Use plenty of cutting oil.

I would replace ALL THREE bolts with new of the proper hardness. I don’t know that the two smaller bolts are available from BMW. If the steering box was loose and in motion while driving it could have flexed, torqued(off axis) and fatigued the two remaining bolts. That could mean more drilling at a later date if not replaced.

Hope this helps.

- S

 

[taylorcom]

Thanks, 3moons. I've been wondering if it's possible to remove the broken bolt with the steering box still in place. I can't tell if the bolt broke off above or below the mounting surface. It's a tight space, but I think a small drill can squeeze in.

 

[3moons]

 

[Candia4441]

View attachment 131773

where did you get the small drill is it real?

 

[3moons]

Thanks, 3moons. I've been wondering if it's possible to remove the broken bolt with the steering box still in place. I can't tell if the bolt broke off above or below the mounting surface. It's a tight space, but I think a small drill can squeeze in.

where did you get the small drill is it real?

I don’t own the drill, found the photo. Probably doesn’t work. Just a great piece of miniature art.

This one does work, however:

Got one for Christmas as a kid. Made by the Ideal Toy Company, part of their Power Mite line. They had a whole line of functional miniature power tools; routers, sanders, circular saws, etc.. Still available on eBay, of course.

This one really works, too, no joke:

(Not my dirty fingernails.)
Powered by a hearing aid battery.

Apologies to Taylorcom for going off topic.

 

[Blinkling]

How's it coming along, @taylorcom? I was picturing sliding the box up a little bit and using a hacksaw to shorten the bolt even more so the box can move laterally. The trick would be to leave enough of the bolt left to be able to get a hold of it with a pipe wrench or vice grips. There are studs there to be careful not to cut off in the process.

I'm assuming you've disconnected the steering column input by now?

This picture may help: (thanks @Gransin for the photo).

 

[taylorcom]

Blinkling, Thanks for the photo. So those 3 holes must be where the 3 bolts secure the steering box to the chassis. Is that big u-shaped piece part of the frame?

It's cold in my carport, and I've been thinking carefully about the project ... have not disconnected the steering column input. Where do u recommend I disconnect it?

Alternatively, I'm wondering if with all 3 bolts removed, there might be enough lateral play for me to just shove the box to the right enough to get to the broken bolt (it's the one on the left).

 

[Blinkling]

Yes, exactly.^^ I love that photo since it's an angle on the front subframe you wouldn't get otherwise.

I think you're right if the bolt is broken off flush at the bolt hole. That's probably the most likely situation. If it's broken off, say, an inch above that you'll have to be able to lift the steering box by more than an inch to clear what's left of it.

I'd say disconnecting the universal joint at the end of the steering column from the input shaft of the steering box would be the easiest place if you do in fact need to. You can then check that part for any wear or play at the same time.

 

[taylorcom]

I've removed the 2 other bolts. As you can see in the photo, one bolt (at the right) is bent, which explains why it was harder to remove than the other one, which was easy.

I didn't have much luck shoving the box to the side. Maybe if I lift the car's passenger-side wheel I can get more movement. Strangely, the steering assembly still responds to the steering wheel.

 

[taylorcom]

I've lifted both wheels and taken a closer look. It appears there may be a nub of the broken bolt left. It also appears that I can't get to it w/o removing the steering box. (It's either that or wrapping the box and subframe support in bailing wire and praying ... lol.)

Can anyone offer advice on the best method for getting the box out of the way? Connections at each end seem to be splined and not easy to move.

 

[Blinkling]

The box is not very easy to remove. Well, no -- it's pretty easy to remove once you've cleared a path to it and drained out all the fluid.

Fellas with more coupe experience than me might have a method for getting the subframe down a few inches without having to disconnect all the engine and suspension. Supporting the box and lowing the subframe would be nice, right? Lowering the subframe makes me nervous.

Personally, I've taken the brake booster out each time I've needed to work on the box. Access is pretty good from above and below once the booster and steering box are out. If you're just down to a nub of a bolt to contend with you'll want all the space you can get, my friend. I have faith! Keep sharing the pictures!