How tho separate the ignition key tumbler from the steering column cylinder? Microswitch in the way.

[Bmachine]

I have read most of the threads on removing the ignition lock from the steering column.

Ignition key disaster

Yesterday, I pulled the Bavaria into my driveway at home, shut it off and rotated the key to the far anticlockwise position so I could remove it. It wouldn't come out and the steering wheel was locked which shouldn't be locked unless the key is removed. The key wouldn't rotate to any other...

e9coupe.com

how to deal with the clausor and ignition switch

there are some details about this that i would like to share, it is not only about the

e9coupe.com

ignition switch (key part) removal

The steering lock As I said before, kind of a touchy deal as one needs to physically pry or wedge the column down enough to clear the steering column lock, about 1/2 to 1 inch if I recall. I used a large screw driver, steering wheel removed, both switches and stalks removed. You need to get...

e9coupe.com

After much sweating and swearing, I got the whole cylinder out. The problem is that now I cannot separate the lock/tumbler from the cylinder. I have read as much as I could find but nothing seems to work. One thing that is different on mine vs the others in the above threads is a microswitch of some sort with wiring that is attached to the cylinder. It does not look like it can be taken apart. I wonder if that is why the tumbler won't come out. Any thought on how to get that tumbler out so I can have it rekeyed?

Thank you.

 

[HB Chris]

That micro switch is the key in buzzer, do away with it.

 

[Stevehose]

In your first pic you have 2 small holes, are there small grub screws or circ pins in one or both holding the cylinder in?

 

[HB Chris]

In your first pic you have 2 small holes, are there small grub screws or circ pins in one or both holding the cylinder in?

I think you insert a pick to release the cylinder. When still in the car use a bent wire or coat hanger.

 

[tferrer]

I think you insert a pick to release the cylinder. When still in the car use a bent wire or coat hanger.

This - you have to push firmly and it doesn't move all that much, but it will depress and release the key switch. A dull ice pick or something with a handle allows you to push harder.

 

[eriknetherlands]

just did it this weekend. The round aluminium cilinder has a few openings. One is about 3 mm across and directly above the key cilinder. (Just not visible in your own pictures, as it is oriented in your first pic to the left). Insert a small screwdriver and push the underlying spring. Use your third hand to the pull the cilinder out by the key (inserted and twisted so it holds).
here's some pics to show where you have to push on the internal spring.

When you have it out, you can check the key code of the cilinder ; two letters ( Capital and small) and 3 digits.

Just to note: when reinstalling just slide the lock cilinder back in. the spring will snap in place. Take care, inside the alu cilinder there are some small parts. I think ( but not sure) that you can accidentally rotate or dislocate these small parts. Make a picture of the internals as soon as you have the lock cilinder out, to document their position just to be sure that you know how it should look like.

 

[tferrer]

Erik's got it. Just so you are aware, you can re-index that ignition to match the doors etc. It's my understanding it's the easiest of all the locks to do. The trunk is the hardest. Not sure why

 

[Bmachine]

just did it this weekend. The round aluminium cilinder has a few openings. One is about 3 mm across and directly above the key cilinder. (Just not visible in your own pictures, as it is oriented in your first pic to the left). Insert a small screwdriver and push the underlying spring. Use your third hand to the pull the cilinder out by the key (inserted and twisted so it holds).
here's some pics to show where you have to push on the internal spring.

When you have it out, you can check the key code of the cilinder ; two letters ( Capital and small) and 3 digits.

Just to note: when reinstalling just slide the lock cilinder back in. the spring will snap in place. Take care, inside the alu cilinder there are some small parts. I think ( but not sure) that you can accidentally rotate or dislocate these small parts. Make a picture of the internals as soon as you have the lock cilinder out, to document their position just to be sure that you know how it should look like.

Perfect! As always, a picture is indeed worth a thousand words and this was again the case.
Thank you Erik and all who replied!

 

[Bmachine]

Erik's got it. Just so you are aware, you can re-index that ignition to match the doors etc. It's my understanding it's the easiest of all the locks to do. The trunk is the hardest. Not sure why

Yes, that is what I was told by Santa Monica Lock and safe as well. So the ease of work for the locksmith is inversely proportional to that of the car owner/restorer. Great...

 

[Bmachine]

That micro switch is the key in buzzer, do away with it.

Great to know! Will do.

 

[tferrer]

Yes, that is what I was told by Santa Monica Lock and safe as well. So the ease of work for the locksmith is inversely proportional to that of the car owner/restorer. Great...

Yes, that's where I got all mine done

 

[TomHom]

....position of the small screw

 

[HB Chris]

Fortunately he has already removed that part.