How to fit new tension strut bushes

Dan Wood

Dan Wood

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
813
Reaction score
625
Location
Newnan, Georgia
Has anyone tried something like a narrow ring compressor to squeeze the rubber where it starts to go in?
Would have to squeeze it down to around 2 inches diameter.
 
Last edited:
wkohler

wkohler

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
632
Reaction score
478
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
The MTC bushings look a lot like the factory ones. Wouldn’t surprise me since they’re a supplier for BMW Classic, as is Uro. Hopefully they are much easier to install.
 
sfdon

sfdon

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Site Donor $$
Messages
8,264
Reaction score
4,618
Location
sfbay area
We do this job a dozen times a year. We have a custom little tool we made out of spare brackets. We order the parts from Uro and MTC and Walloth.
The last set of Walloth bushes we could not install.
The only place we install poly bushings is on our adjustable rear subframes.
 
Stevehose

Stevehose

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
13,003
Reaction score
5,679
Location
Sarasota, FL
Dan Wood said:
Has anyone tried something like a narrow ring compressor to squeeze the rubber where it starts to go in?
Would have to squeeze it down to around 2 inches diameter.
Click to expand...
Yes, I used a wide hose clamp for this. I have the MTC bushings and they worked once I got everything together. I had to do this in two stages: first, get the bushing started in the hole. My subframe is powder coated and has added quite a bit to the difficulty of starting the bushing, no amount of force could get the lip started evenly. So I put some silicone rubber stuff on the lip of the bushing and tightened it up like a piston ring compressor:

IMG_4224.jpg


IMG_4226.jpg



Then aligned and tightened it until it went is as far as possible (I sprayed it with Iso alcohol as well as in the back side of the tube), it worked:

IMG_4227.jpg

IMG_4228.jpg



Maybe this clamp technique would work on the other stubborn brands like the W&N ones. Then I removed the clamp and put a cut up pipe on the other side to pull it through like the manual shows:

12531002_z.jpg


This piece was difficult to find because of very little room to work with, the only thing I could find strong enough after several attempts at inferior materials was a piece of 2 1/4" ID stainless exhaust pipe about 1.5mm wall thickness which I cut to fit and worked great:


This allowed me to pull it the rest of the way in and voila. Here's the tool parts - 1/2" threaded rod, a large-assed washer trimmed on the sides to fit on the back side for pulling, washers for the front, the cut pipe and clamp (taped to protect the paint).

IMG_4229.jpg


Never again!! If anyone wants this tool let me know and I will gladly send it off for postage to the next sucker member who is doing this project!
 
Last edited:
Dan Wood

Dan Wood

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
813
Reaction score
625
Location
Newnan, Georgia
Stevehose said:
Yes, I used a wide hose clamp for this. I have the MTC bushings and they worked once I got everything together. I had to do this in two stages: first, get the bushing started in the hole. My subframe is powder coated and has added quite a bit to the difficulty of starting the bushing, no amount of force could get the lip started evenly. So I put some silicone rubber stuff on the lip of the bushing and tightened it up like a piston ring compressor:

View attachment 170098

View attachment 170099


Then aligned and tightened it until it went is as far as possible (I sprayed it with Iso alcohol as well as in the back side of the tube), it worked:

View attachment 170100
View attachment 170101


Maybe this clamp technique would work on the other stubborn brands like the W&N ones. Then I removed the clamp and put a cut up pipe on the other side to pull it through like the manual shows:

View attachment 170102

This piece was difficult to find because of very little room to work with, the only thing I could find strong enough after several attempts at inferior materials was a piece of 2 1/4" ID stainless exhaust pipe about 1.5mm wall thickness which I cut to fit and worked great:


This allowed me to pull it the rest of the way in and voila. Here's the tool parts - 1/2" threaded rod, a large-assed washer trimmed on the sides to fit on the back side for pulling, washers for the front, the cut pipe and clamp (taped to protect the paint).

View attachment 170103

Never again!! If anyone wants this tool let me know and I will gladly send it off for postage to the next sucker member who is doing this project!
Click to expand...
Excellent, I tried doing it a few years ago (still have the bushings), gave up, and then decided to use Poly split bushings. If I ever get bored, I will try it again.
 
boonies

boonies

Boonies
Site Donor $$
Messages
1,142
Reaction score
815
Location
US - Philadelphia suburbs
I am planning for replacement this winter and based on this discussion I am looking for an alternative to the W&N that I purchased last year.

The MTC link above now leads to a dead-end, the MTC part number returns for both MTC and URO, but there does not appear to be stock available anywhere (that I have found).

When I check BMW dealer online order sites the PN: 31121123553 comes back with mixed results, some show discontinued/unavailable, but it does show available from Maximillian importing (Also a dealership here in PA). I have reached out to them to check availability, but does anyone know if the BMW part would simply be the W&N part that is problematic?

Another option i am considering is Jaymic as they do have the split polly bushings available (Ireland Engineering still is out of stock).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top