ignition switch (key part) removal

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alanmcg

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hi,
what is the secret to removing the ignition switch?? im talking about the part the key goes in - i already have the back switch off - the one that is held in by the infamous microscopic grub screw.
thnks in advance,
alanmcg
 
You're very welcome.

Make sure you restake the ignition switch- the back to the can; there are three small tangs/ tabs which hold the darn thing together. The single most reason those things fail; they work loose first, then eventually fly apart. Not cheap either.

If you're stuck and the key seems to be working, but no starter ,etc. open the cover and press on the back of the switch to start. It'll get you home in a pinch.
 
Ugh, I hated this job. I had to get a small propane torch to heat those sheer bolts to get them loose. Seriously, 5 bolts ??
 
ummm= headless bolts are removed by using a hammer and chisel to rotate them loose and out. First hit to flatten a side and then hit the flattened portion to rotate.
Takes 4-5 blows on each to loosen.
 
update

i took a dremel tool with cutter wheel and cut a nice clean slot in the top and thought sure would be easy to unscrew with large flat screwdriver - nada - very soft metal and slot just tore away. i quit after that. today plan to drill out.

some might be interested that you can still order a new lock set for your orig key. guys at mesa performance (these guys are the best - and ive used everyone else!) said with the vin, they can order a replacement ignition set that will fit your orig key. spendy, about $250.00, BUT it doesnt come with a new key. and as im not sure my keys are orig, didnt want to risk it so just bought a new ignition set that comes with 2 new keys ($180.00). they will be different obviously, but i never lock my car so dont care. am curious though, could a locksmith that works with dimple keys, re-key the door and trunk to the new ignition key?

thnks guys,
alanmcg
 
The trick

The locksmith trick for the blind screws is to use a good quality spring loaded center punch.
Pop it at the edge of the screw. This worked for most of mine, a couple were stubborn and I got these loose with a very small chisel. The nervous part is wedging down the column to clear the steering lock. Carl Nelson replaced what is called the intermediate section, mine was worn out. Price was reasonable. Also got me two new keys from my vin @ $50.00 ea.
Carl hates this job as well, I think his comment to me was something like "suicide is easier and less painless" Myself, I replaced all the screws with stainless hex for re-assembly.
Yeah, the crimp on the switch...what a B.S deal that is. I have one on the bench that is N.G only for this reason. I did start the car for a while using a screw driver until I got my stuff back from Carl.
Have fun, beer required.
 
pamp said:
...Yeah, the crimp on the switch...what a B.S deal that is. I have one on the bench that is N.G only for this reason. I did start the car for a while using a screw driver until I got my stuff back from Carl.
Have fun, beer required.
Click to expand...

+1 The crimp is, and they use them on other devices like the turn/dim.

I have my MG with the screwdriver...need to do the cylinder...one day...
 
i have just ordered the ignition set with 2 keys, so seing this thread worries me

sfdon said:
ummm= headless bolts are removed by using a hammer and chisel to rotate them loose and out. First hit to flatten a side and then hit the flattened portion to rotate.
Takes 4-5 blows on each to loosen.
Click to expand...

i can not understand, how can you rotate a bolt with a chisel ?

you say hit it to flatten a side ? wont you be supposed to hit it in the centre ?

and then hit the flattened portion ? do you mean hitting providing a tangential force ?

please a more detailed explanation will be welcomed

by the way, i have a spring loaded center punch, can it be used ? how can i use it to undo the bolt ?
 
questions

pamp said:
The locksmith trick for the blind screws is to use a good quality spring loaded center punch.
Pop it at the edge of the screw.
could you explain this a bit ?

Myself, I replaced all the screws with stainless hex for re-assembly.
sure, i will do the same !

Yeah, the crimp on the switch...what a B.S deal that is. I have one on the bench that is N.G only for this reason. I did start the car for a while using a screw driver until I got my stuff back from Carl.
Have fun, beer required.
Click to expand...

what is that crimp on the switch ? could you post a pic ?

is it worth to order one now before starting the procedure ?

thanks
 
shear bolts

can i use bolt extractors for this purpose ?

you know, drill a small hole in the centre of the bolt, and use an anti-clockwise threaded extractor

regards
 
Just Use a SawsAll and Cut the Steering Column Out and fix it on the Bench.

If you guys don't like working under the dash there is a very simple solution...

I would recommend that you cut the Steering Column out of your E9 with either a SawsALL or a Torch. Then removing the tiny little screw is easy on your work bench or in the vise.:mrgreen:

Be very careful when doing this and make sure that you cover your interior and do not damage your leather seats or other interior parts. This is because I need some nice front seats and other interior parts:wink:
 
Hit the SIDE of the headless bolt to create a flat spot that you can now hit at an angle to rotate it.
That is what they teach at BMW tech and I have done it for years and years.
 
e-z out - easy.

dequincy,
i ended up using an easy-out (the bolt extractor you mention below) - worked great, easy, and no banging required.
alanmcg
 
ok, thank you for the tips, probably i will use the extractor system and refit afterwards with hexagonal inox bolts

now a new question, i am sorry to say that i can not understand, the function of the whole system, what would you recomend me to do with the rest of the parts in which the whole system consist of ?

i mean, if i look to the painful future that means to open this thing, i would like to do a profound renewal work

so what do you recommend ? probably not only the lock, but also the switch ?
 
depends

it depends on what your trying to fix. in my case it was the key section of the switch that was worn out (sloppy, positions not crisp, excessive movement of the key, etc), the back switch (the can part) is in good shape (detents crisp, etc). you wont know which of these components is causing the excessive movement till you take them apart.

if you are having actual problems with the car starting, the back switch would be one of the areas to look at.
 
Ignition

OK,
A couple of pic's...the switch and offending cheesy crimp...
100_0120.jpg

One technique to rotate a blind screw...
100_0121.jpg

Seems self explanatory for sure, but maybe not to those with limited mechanical experience,
no insult intended.
On my own car as I said before, the intermediate section was sloppy and not allowing enough rotation to fully turn the switch. Simple to pop out the switch and rotate with a screw driver to engage the starter to test before going full on the R & R of the keyed assembly.
Damn Alan, that must have been a bit of drilling to make a go with an ez - out! To Mr. deQuincy...the switch ain't cheap and no need to replace this unless it is bad!
 
Last edited:
pamp said:
OK,
A couple of pic's...the switch and offending cheesy crimp...

One technique to rotate a blind screw...

Seems self explanatory for sure, but maybe not to those with limited mechanical experience,
no insult intended.
On my own car as I said before, the intermediate section was sloppy and not allowing enough rotation to fully turn the switch. Simple to pop out the switch and rotate with a screw driver to engage the starter to test before going full on the R & R of the keyed assembly.
Damn Alan, that must have been a bit of drilling to make a go with an ez - out! To Mr. deQuincy...the switch ain't cheap and no need to replace this unless it is bad!
Click to expand...

outstanding !

what a good explanation in a short message with two pics all explained !

thank you very much !

now i got all the basic information to start the work, as soon as the spare part arrive (only the key lock, yes the ignition switch is too expensive to renew not being defective now)

regards
 
the worst

ok - ive done some pita jobs on my coupe (replace starter, remove front diving board bumpers bolts under radiator, etc) but replacing the ignition lock is the lead-dog, by A LOT.

the ever-helpful instructions read: "Push in and turn the steering column until a milled groove is directly under the steering lock. Turn the steering column backwards and forwards while pulling out the steering lock, which should be in the "Fahrt" (Drive) position."

after reading these 2 sentences 40ish times, i still dont know they are saying - 'push in the sterring column'??? 'milled groove under the steering lock' (which of course is hidden BY the steering lock). well, i pulled in and out, turned backwards and forwards, all while making sure the #$*&@#* thing was in the FART position - NOTHIN! later, after much stomping and swearing around my garage, i ended up dropping the entire steering column assembly to get the sucker out (after drilling out the 5 snap-off bolts).

btw dequincey, replacement bolts you will need: 4-6x100, and 1-8x1.25. and you have my sympathy for the job that is ahead of you!
 
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