Installing Euro Front Bumper - How I Did It

Catbert

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I've posted twice already about my purchase, assembly, and bracket alignment of my Euro-spec front bumper. I live alone so I manage doing things by myself, even when something is a two-man job. No children. Girlfriend and future wife is 13,000 km away. Just me for now.

The next step with my front Euro bumper installation project was to check for fitment and alignment. This meant attaching the bumper with all securing hardware only finger tight. If all goes well, then I can mark holes for mounting the ends of the bumper to the fender. My car has an air dam, so I was curious if the bumper would align with the OEM holes, which I can clearly see.

My first attempt was doing what seemed logical... attach the brackets first, then attach the bumper to the brackets. Before doing this, I applied two sheets of painter's masking paper to the fenders and air dam with painter's tape. The edges of the bumper are thin and sharp and would cut like a knife if applied with enough force and at the right angle. I also applied painter's tape to the edges of the bumper... a good move.

The problem with this approach has a few issues. First, without the dagmars attached, the bumper swivels at both ends like a jacknife. Second is trying to hold this double folding jacknife while attempting to get the plastic funny-shaped bushing onto the rather short dagmar bolt and then get the nut on. Not enough room, but barely enough room even with my small hands. I struggled with this for an hour before deciding on a new tactic. I was literally sweating bullets in fear of damaging the paint or the bumper. My precautions paid off, so nothing was damaged.

I then put the bumper on my proxy workbench and assembled the dagmars and brackets in comfort. Mounting the brackets alone is a bit tricky as they need to be angled at a steep downward angle to allow the holes to clear the frame rail and get the carriage bolts placed from behind. So, I wondered what problems I would have with the bumper attached to the brackets. Yes, it was a problem.

The good news is, with the bumper attached to the brackets, fitting the bumper in place is easy as the brackets hold it by in place without any need of a box of some kind. But, the brackets can't be angled so both mounting holes clear the frame rail. The solution was easy. The bracket mounting hole nearest the firewall clears the frame rail. The forward bracket mounting hole does not, but only by 1/4". It hits the nearby sheet metal, which has nothing else in the way. So, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the sheetmetal stopping the bracket from moving downward and then used a grinding bit on my drill to smooth it out. Yes, I applied black enamel paint to the small cutout to keep my precious E9 rust-free. Ta-da!

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Yes, like you when removing/replacing my bumper to repaint my air dam I removed the bumper from the bracket and tried to install bracket first then bumper. That’s a bit hard to do for the reasons you mention. Once you have the whole thing in place and secured, removing the bumper at that point is easier, just reach under the bumper and disengage it from the bracket leaving the bracket locked into its correct position.
 
Yesterday, I measured and marked the profile of the bumper ends that wrap around the fenders to pinpoint the two holes I will be drilling to bolt this part of the bumper to the car. I first did this with all hardware fasteners only finger tight. Next, I tightened all of the hardware for a final fitment check. I wondered if tightening the fasteners would change my markings. Fortunately, it did not BUT it did make attaching the bumper more difficult. The two dagmar bolts that connect to the brackets when tightened created torque that pulled the brackets inward. We each hand holding onto a bracket, I needed to use quite a bit of force to pull them apart enough so they would slide into the openings. This also pulled the ends of the bumper into the fenders. Ahhhhh! But, I applied plenty of painter's tape to guard against such an occurrence. Surprisingly, when it was in place it aligned perfectly with my markings and measurements. Yay!

Next steps: (1) Mark and drill the two holes in the fenders. (2) Drill holes in the bumper
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to mount the Lucas driving lights. (3) Wait for the delivery of the rubber bracket hole gaskets to arrive all the way from Deutschland. Ya!
 
Here's a pic of the small cutouts I made to allow the brackets to move down enough so the forward carriage bolt can be attached and removed. Easy solution.
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Shorter bolts would help too. For the fenders I took a short bolt, cut the head off, sharpened the other end, inserted it into bumper end, and tapped it against the fender. I learned this from Paul Cain. The US 73 uses through bolts into the frame so much easier.
 
Shorter bolts would help too. For the fenders I took a short bolt, cut the head off, sharpened the other end, inserted it into bumper end, and tapped it against the fender. I learned this from Paul Cain. The US 73 uses through bolts into the frame so much easier.
The bolt length doesn't make any difference if the bracket holes are blocked by the frame rail. I went with longer bolts just to play it safe. I was going to simply drill through the frame rails until other members pointed out that doing so would compromise the frame strength and crush it upon tightening the bolts. Glad I paid attention to those good comments and did it the OEM way.
 
When sliding the bumper rails in a shorter carriage bolt definitely helps, I did this with two CSLs I converted back to chrome bumpers. There is now way one could crush the frame rail in my opinion, the 73 frame rail is the same dimension as a 72 and earlier, only the 74 US is thicker.
 
I work alone as well. I attach the bumper to the brackets, then use a milk crate which is the right height, work on one end while crate holds height at the other. Once the brackets are through the front cowl, I have surgical snaps/clamps that I use to hold the carriage bolt within the frame rail so it extends far enough out. You can tweak the bumper bracket laterally just enough to get it over the protruding carriage bolt, then through the bracket hole and apply the nut, remove the snap/clamp and finish the tightening.
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I work alone as well. I attach the bumper to the brackets, then use a milk crate which is the right height, work on one end while crate holds height at the other. Once the brackets are through the front cowl, I have surgical snaps/clamps that I use to hold the carriage bolt within the frame rail so it extends far enough out. You can tweak the bumper bracket laterally just enough to get it over the protruding carriage bolt, then through the bracket hole and apply the nut, remove the snap/clamp and finish the tightening. View attachment 228414
Ahhhhh... You take a surgical approach. I also used a plastic milk crate with a folded blanket on top as an emergency resting point if I get stuck. Once the brackets engage the opening, even a little, the bumper stays in place with ease. I image the OEM bumper is much heavier.
 
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