Is it possible (window motor)?

[2002turbo]

Turns both directions on the bench, albeit a bit noisy in one direction; but won't turn when installed in the detached window lift mechanism (ie nothing to lift). Just clicks and gear squirms.

Yes I lubed the mechanism and exercised it on the bench (boy that spring is something though).

Yes it's a new window switch.

Yes I bought it off ebay.

No I did not check the voltage but will do that next.

 

[2002turbo]

Well I fixed the old motor, turns out the spade connector was loose (rivet), and put the beotch back together. It's almost impossible to get the lever arm/motor assembly back in the door in one piece and even more impossible to get the motor installed after the mechanism is back in the door. For starters, the 3 bolts that fix the motor to the housing are not accessible once the mechanism is back in place. In other words, you have to loosen the entire mechanism, then separate the motor when the mechanism is loose but still in the door. Take out the pieces. Then after putting it all back together out of the door. you have to loosen the front track to get the subassembly back in the door. Don't even try to put the motor in after the lever assembly. And the whole thing is greasy and full of sharp edges so it's blood sweat and tears, literally. I thought Italian engineers were the worst but now I am demoting them to second worst. (Removing the clutch MC is another bear on this 74 car, the bolts are barely accessible,; and replacing the ball joint boot in front is nigh impossible, as is replacing the rubber on the inboard end of the control arm, you have to replace the entire arm which is NLA; I could go on)

 

[2000CS]

Putting rubber/urethane debate aside, for a quick "on the car" play correction... (sorry; they only had red)
Suppose not all inboard bushings are this easy to remove.

 

[jmackro]

It's almost impossible to get the lever arm/motor assembly back in the door in one piece and even more impossible to get the motor installed after the mechanism is back in the door. For starters, the 3 bolts that fix the motor to the housing are not accessible once the mechanism is back in place. In other words, you have to loosen the entire mechanism, then separate the motor when the mechanism is loose but still in the door. Take out the pieces. Then after putting it all back together out of the door. you have to loosen the front track to get the subassembly back in the door. Don't even try to put the motor in after the lever assembly.

I'm not getting why you couldn't bolt the motor to the regulator on the bench, and then install the assembly into the door. I've done it that way many times.

To get the lifting arm into the channel at the base of the window, you need to use the motor to adjust the arm to its rearmost (as I recall) position, insert the roller, and then pull the motor-regulator assembly forward a bit to align it with the mounting holes in the door frame.

Heck, the front window mechanisms are easy compared with the rears!

 

[2002turbo]

Unless I am missing something, my lifter motor is too fat to get by the front window guide/channel. It's that square motor they used in 74, not the "sardine can" motor. Believe me, it won't go by the channel unless you loosen same to move it out of the way. And you have to remove the top stop. This while keeping the window glass all the way up with vise grips in the rear channel.

 

[jmackro]

My car came with "sardine can" motors, but I have since converted it to e28 motors. Either way, the regulator-motor assembly will go into the door with the motor in place. Maybe the '74 motors are different somehow; admittedly, I don't have experience with them.