Is there a way to bypass the ignition key?

I like it. I have wiring harness from an 81 e12 with L-jet On my car. Wonder if it still would work?
 
I recommend that if you are going to replace the electrics to also replace the cylinder lock and tumbler. The car is almost if not already 50 years old and parts get tired. At the shop, we have replaced one basically every month because of a similar reason so it's very common. And by doing the extra step it s a piece of mind and will allow the car to work properly for another 50 years or more.
 
@Stevehose , great idea. I want one too when you are ready to share.

Is the plug readily available? My car is equipped with both of the original orange diagnostic ports and I assume they are still connected.
 
Stevehose said:
Ok I've figured out the wiring for a "black box" to plug into the diagnostic port to start and drive the car in the event of an ignition switch failure (no key needed other than to unlock the steering wheel).....but I understand if the Moderators don't want it out there because it makes "Gone in 60 seconds" slower by 45.
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I'm not sure why releasing this design into the public domain would result in a rash of e9/e3 thefts. With the steering column still locked, our hypothetical thief would find himself going around in circles.
 
boonies said:
@Stevehose , great idea. I want one too when you are ready to share.

Is the plug readily available? My car is equipped with both of the original orange diagnostic ports and I assume they are still connected.
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Yes both the 9 pin and 6 pin plugs are available from Mouser, I'll post the part numbers in the recap. The one by the thermostat housing does ignition timing. Do you sill have the cable from it that goes to #1 spark plug and the coil?
 
Stevehose said:
Yes both the 9 pin and 6 pin plugs are available from Mouser, I'll post the part numbers in the recap. The one by the thermostat housing does ignition timing. Do you sill have the cable from it that goes to #1 spark plug and the coil?
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Thanks, will look forward to your recap! I am fairly certain I have the cable from #1 to the coil.
 
I know you all have been waiting all weekend for this so I will oblige. 1st prototype, I’ll need to source a slightly larger box as it is just 2 mm not deep enough and I need more wire. Version 2.0 next. The LED on the toggle lights up to indicate fire in the hole. Coming along.

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Bmachine said:
Last week I went and did a local rally. Much to my surprise, after a midway stop, my car would not start again. I would turn the key do usual way but absolutely nothing would happen when the starter was supposed to engage. I checked power to the starter and it was showing perfect 12 V. It’s as if the contact to activate the solenoid was not being made. I was finally able to start it by pushing it on a downhill and dropping the clutch in second. I tested it again a couple of days later and it started just fine.

After searching on the board several people mention the possibility of a bad switch at the end of the key tumbler.

Unfortunately I was working this week and did not have time to take It all apart to look into it.

I am doing another rally this morning and I was wondering if there is an emergency bypass I can make in case this happens again while I am away from home.

I realize that this is sort of like asking how to hot wire a coupe which may not be a good thing to put on a public forum. So if that is the case a private reply to me would be much appreciated.

Thank you
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Although I had a new ignition switch installed when I had my 73 3.0 CS engine rebuilt in 2016, I always had to hold in just above the key with my left thumb and turn the key to get it started. Even though I advised my most recent repair shop of such, they didn't read my notes, removed and destroyed my ignition switch, whereas even after they put in a new ignition switch, they also had to install an push button to start the car with the key turned half way.
 
this seems like a very simple thing to do
as ive been hotwiring cars since 1964
when i had my first car
the 1953 chevy panel truck
 
When I had my first Bavaria back in the late 80s, when I still had a job which required me to work rather than fiddle with cars, the same thing happened, i.e. the car wouldn’t start because the ignition switch became broke. I took it to a mechanic, and when it came back, it had a red button you pushed to start the car after you engaged the ignition key and lit up the lights. It was kind of cool. It was a really well done red button. Not sure what the electrics are but now that I have the entire electrical wiring harness out, and I no longer have that job, I might be able to figure it out. I really liked that red button .
 
Version 2.0 complete and as a bonus, works as intended! The neutral warning comes from an unfortunate experience when I once had the car in reverse, leaned through the window to start, it did and lurched out of the garage with me still attached. How about that screw alignment @zinz ?? :cool:

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Dick Steinkamp said:
Will it still crank with the power off?
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It’s designed to get me home in the event of a fried/broken ignition switch. When powered on, the dash lights up as if you’ve turned the key to the run position. And obviously it can be used as a remote starter when fiddling with ignition etc. With power switch off it won’t crank.
 
The button I had was built into the dash, looked like an emergency flasher button. Insert key, unlock wheel, turn key to engage lights then push to start. Very simple.
Maybe ran the 106 and 107 wires, black and red, to the button? (I am not good with wiring diagrams)
 
Frederick said:
The button I had was built into the dash, looked like an emergency flasher button. Insert key, unlock wheel, turn key to engage lights then push to start. Very simple.
Maybe ran the 106 and 107 wires, black and red, to the button? (I am not good with wiring diagrams)
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Yes, but this is in case the key won’t activate the ignition/dash lights due to a faulty switch.
 
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