I've got Wood (veneer) let me see yours

shanon

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Very nice whittling fellas!

As another 'who made/restored their own', I went with a very stock looking European Walnut veneer over a newly 'shaped' plywood form/base.

If embarking down this path, it creates customization opportunities. I chose to delete the ashtrays in favor 'more wood'.

Also, I didn't have a vacuum, so I improvised with a combo of shrink wrap and string. Necessity is the mother of invention ;)

A fun part of the process is exploring the flat files of veneer selections at better fine woodworking suppliers. A 'sheet' might even be enough for two cars, I have a good sized remnant.

I found my veneer here (a wonderland for any woodworker):

 
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HusseinBM

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I got mine made which is reproduction with a solid walnut wood as I have the original (LHD) and also tailor made the speaker opening to fit my Retrosound speaker. The advantage of having a solid walnut wood that there is no wood veneer that would peel off over time and can be polished and maintained.
If anyone interested, let me know and I can ask the person who made for me to see if he can give me better price if he gets more orders.
 

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Krzysztof

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Nice set of work Gents!

Having so many experts it is wise to ask about the proper glue for repair and putting new veneer.
Most of the glues are for home use (furniture etc).
How to find the one which will survive high humidity, huge temperature shock and much bigger UV exposure?
Glue market is wide, so probably US chemistry will not to be found in Europe but what to look for?
Is the repair glue the same as for full new veneer gluing?
 

deQuincey

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Nice set of work Gents!

Having so many experts it is wise to ask about the proper glue for repair and putting new veneer.
Most of the glues are for home use (furniture etc).
How to find the one which will survive high humidity, huge temperature shock and much bigger UV exposure?
Glue market is wide, so probably US chemistry will not to be found in Europe but what to look for?
Is the repair glue the same as for full new veneer gluing?

i am using a carpenter white glue that comes with reinforcing fibers, it is extraordinary
a ceys product
 

TomHom

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I got mine made which is reproduction with a solid walnut wood as I have the original (LHD) and also tailor made the speaker opening to fit my Retrosound speaker. The advantage of having a solid walnut wood that there is no wood veneer that would peel off over time and can be polished and maintained.
If anyone interested, let me know and I can ask the person who made for me to see if he can give me better price if he gets more orders.
Solid wood tends to bend when exposed to varying climatic conditions like heat, sun exposure, low temperatures and humidity.
So plywood would be the appropiate material.
Thomas
 

dave v. in nc

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Nice set of work Gents!

Having so many experts it is wise to ask about the proper glue for repair and putting new veneer.
Most of the glues are for home use (furniture etc).
How to find the one which will survive high humidity, huge temperature shock and much bigger UV exposure?
Glue market is wide, so probably US chemistry will not to be found in Europe but what to look for?
Is the repair glue the same as for full new veneer gluing?
Can you find a product called (Franklin International) Titebond III ? Probably can order through the internet if not readily available in EU...they're a very large company that supplies furniture manufacturers, and home wood-workers...its quick, acts like any PVA wood/craft glue (white glue), but is waterproof. Doesn't get brittle like previous glues, great bond....about $7-8 for the size pictured...
Since it is water soluble, you can cut it if need to use in a syringe, etc...not by much of course as you are diluting the glue and thus the bond...And not to preach, but for repair, never glue to old glue without sanding old glue off (like for delaminating veneer, have to sand both surfaces...) Probably too much information, blah, blah, blah...sorry....
and yes I use it for repair and for new wood...
 

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dave v. in nc

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I got mine made which is reproduction with a solid walnut wood as I have the original (LHD) and also tailor made the speaker opening to fit my Retrosound speaker. The advantage of having a solid walnut wood that there is no wood veneer that would peel off over time and can be polished and maintained.
If anyone interested, let me know and I can ask the person who made for me to see if he can give me better price if he gets more orders.
I sincerely hope that the solid walnut works for your project.
Solid wood moves with heat/humidity and lack thereof...and often/usually cracks if not allowed to move (i.e., secured to a piece of metal that moves only fractionally) I guess my biggest concern is the curved end dash pieces...there is "short grain" that parallels the direction of each piece, that is very weak and vulnerable. I pray for the thin speaker grille as well; hopefully yours will not warp...The other pieces are pretty small and shouldn't have a lot of stress...Walnut is beautiful, and yours looks great...Hope it stays put for you.
 

HusseinBM

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I sincerely hope that the solid walnut works for your project.
Solid wood moves with heat/humidity and lack thereof...and often/usually cracks if not allowed to move (i.e., secured to a piece of metal that moves only fractionally) I guess my biggest concern is the curved end dash pieces...there is "short grain" that parallels the direction of each piece, that is very weak and vulnerable. I pray for the thin speaker grille as well; hopefully yours will not warp...The other pieces are pretty small and shouldn't have a lot of stress...Walnut is beautiful, and yours looks great...Hope it stays put for you.
Thanks Dave,
I still have my original set which is in good shape. It just needs ee-veneering. I can always get my original refurbished and installed it if the solid wood cracks but it has been on my car for a year in the heat of Oman!!!
Thanks for your review and let's see how it gets on and I will update you guys of my experience as if it can hold on to Oman's heat it will work anywhere in the world
 

deQuincey

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I sincerely hope that the solid walnut works for your project.
Solid wood moves with heat/humidity and lack thereof...and often/usually cracks if not allowed to move (i.e., secured to a piece of metal that moves only fractionally) I guess my biggest concern is the curved end dash pieces...there is "short grain" that parallels the direction of each piece, that is very weak and vulnerable. I pray for the thin speaker grille as well; hopefully yours will not warp...The other pieces are pretty small and shouldn't have a lot of stress...Walnut is beautiful, and yours looks great...Hope it stays put for you.

you are right Dave,
solid wood is seldom used in a car,
experience says that plywood, laminated basis is best to stand temp and humidity variations due to the car use

a friend did that solid wood thing for a car in bacelona, and in three years it turned up to be a disaster, so he had to find spares for that

same mistake as using normal leather instead of automotive grade leather, UV will damage the former fast
 

Krzysztof

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@deQuincey, @TomHom, @dave v. in nc

Thanks for info!

I will check the spec... I need to practice on some old part.

What is the best way to remove old peeling veneer not damaging the plywood more? Would humidity (steam) help or it is too dangerous for the plywood base?
 

eb88

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To conclude, we entrusted Nick Martin - http://www.nicholas-martin.co.uk/ to reveneer our car and were not dissapointed.
Very quick, very reasonable and highly recommended.
 

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bavbob

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Where do people source the rubber bits that fit into the center dash tray. Mine are ok but they do deteriorate with all the heat.
 
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