Just Dashes

Easier said than done.

I thought about assembling a full set of used poor condition units and having them done by JD, to mitigate the lead time. Even ratty dash parts are not cheap.


They come up every now and then.

E.g.:

 
The most difficult pad to find is the upper one.

Hoods you can find not cracked more easier.

The grab rail...hard to find not cracked, but not as hard as the upper one. I've had one for sale for $400 mint and it took >year to sell.
 
They come up every now and then.

E.g.:

I was on this set of dash parts, I offered to buy just the dash top, but the seller was able to sell to a buyer that wanted all of it.
 
JD does a nice job of replicating the OEM look, but the dash top is a bit thicker and a different texture and sheen than OEM. It is next to impossible to remove a perfect dash from a 50 year old e9 without breaking the super brittle and thin left and right corners. I have restored 5 e9s and Installing an original back into a restored car is even more difficult to do without breaking or denting the OEM dash. Very few e9s are 95+ point concourse restorations or untouched originals, so I don't know if you could really put a value on a perfect used OEM dash and JDs prices are surely cheaper. Doing the work JD does in CA is next to impossible from a labor and toxic materials standpoint, I am surprised they have even stayed in business here for as long as they have. It is no wonder why the costs have skyrocketed.
I am attempting the very difficult job of removing the uncracked dash from my CSL and reinstalling it after the paintwork has been completed.
Wish me luck!
Hi Tom, You seem to have a great deal of experience in this are. I am based in Sydney (AU) and am restoring my 1973 3.0CS (2232124). It started life in Zurich and was privately imported to AU on the early 80s and converted to RHD. I have had the dash sent to a AU company for repair. Their guy was in Poland. The LH vertical wooden piece was water damaged due to a screen leak. The item in question came back and sat on my office floor, inside the house, for three years and I went to fit it yesterday and found that it is too large to sit between the A pillars. To get to the point, the distance between the A pillars is 1370mm and the point to point distance on the dash panel is 1408mm. Do you have a reference measurement you can share? Although all these were 'hand built', the basic body shells will be the same here.
 

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Thanks for the superfast reply. By way of comparison, the base board with should be 1382mm (underside- point to point). The dimensions I have between the A pillar (as clearly defined by the marks / indents on the vinyl is 1370mm, whereas the re-finished dashboard is 1408mm. Then there are the angles between the base board and the vertical section – right is 86.7°, whereas the left is 75.7°. Yes, 11° difference when they should be symmetrical. So any (other) real-world info will be greatly appreciated.
 

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I also had JD do my upper with gauge surround 4 years ago. Think it was around $950. Like everyone said, it is noticeably thicker, but otherwise looks right. I had to sent back the gauge surround as the had the angle of the sides wrong. They are frankly still a little too vertical making it a tight fit, but point being make sure it is aligned correctly.
 
There was a guy in Wahington State,Dash Boards USA, who did the dash in my E24 for $550. It is as NOS and I love looking at it Again I don't know if he is still around
 
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