Lan-Engine M30B30 Maintenance thread. Periods, products, processes,...tips and FAQs

deQuincey

deQuincey

Quousque tandem...?
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It might be useful to collect in one thread as much details as possible about this. i feel that every year or every two or three, there are questions that you recall that you already asked and got the answer, but here they are again, and...” BTW how many liters of engine oil, or what was the size of the hex bolt at the lateral of engine to drain the coolant, was it 17 or 19 ...?”

i am now in the middle of this, so i can give a comprehensive view of all the different aspects, from how and were to put the car on stands to the size of the washer for the topping bolt at the diff

i will not detail products available in other countries, so feel free to complete the list if you wish


start point, **

i find important to warm up the engine with a quick fast spin, no less than 30min to make sure that diff and gearbox oils reach their operating temperatures, and put the coupe on stands, considering the CN suspension setup i need a couple of wood ramps to be able to reach the front subframe plate, see pics

process is first rear, using an adhoc wood piece to lift the rear subframe through the diff, wood piece has a hole for the diff plug, lift it up and then my new ultra light and slim stands, so convenient to avoid touching the tyres when the thing is released down
then over the front, place a wood under the engine subframe front corrugated plate, lift it up and put two more stands on the front subframe,








finally



place containers or recipents on the floor

drain the oils, engine, gear box, diff, and steering, and then coolant

remove the drain plug first, and then remove the other end, it might be the topping plug or the coolant reservoir cap, this action helps the fluid coming out

keep the plugs, and nuts and bolts and washers in a safe place and note everything

check every fluid, measure how much went out and note it



** i almost only talk about the stock coupe, euro, 3.0cs, other models might be different

General disclaimer

I hope you will find the information on this thread useful, but I just need to make a few things perfectly clear. The information contained in this thread is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by me (and sometimes selected other contributors) and whilst I endeavour to keep the information up to date and correct, I make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the posts or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the thread for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

In no event will I be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of data or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of the above mentioned information. Whatever you do to your car, whether based upon any content of this thread or not, is entirely your own responsibility. Please take care and seek further advice when needed if you are unsure.
 
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based in owners hand book, ed 1970


engine oil, every 6 months, or 7500km, change filter too
extend to one year[/QUOTE]

Hex bolt M19
crushable washer needed
remove all filter element from support, 4 bolts M13, change paper gasket,
inside container be careful to identify and keep the bottom plate (avoid throwing it away with the old filtration element)
reassemble, new paper gasket, bolts at prescribed torque, 25N.m

power steering, check 15000km, change filter every 60000km
remove captive nut from flared ended hose form Steering pump
open reservoir, caution, there is a filter inside the reservoir

gearbox, change oil 30000km
drain conic bolt with a magnet, use allen head M17 (no washer needed)
level is lateral hole used to fill the oil, also conical bolt in there, do not overfill

diff, check level 15000km, change 30000km
drain bolt allen head M10, need washer better if crushable copper type
level is lateral hole used to fill the oil, also allen head bolt in there, again washer needed, do not overfill

coolant, change 2 years
better drain when warm,
radiator bolt M19, needs washer
do not forget bottom bolt (M19) on engine bottom right side rear, here is where the main fluid will come out
needs bleeding, probably two times, first in garage, then after a spin

brake fluid, change once a year,
also connected to clutch,
better use a venturi-suction type device,
while bleeding remove old fluid, follow manual sequence for bleeding points


———————


fluids

- brakes:
especificación DOT4
propuesta: ATE TYP 200
1 liter aprox

- steering:
especificación ATF D2
propuesta BMW ATF D2
1,2 liters

- coolant:
especificación: inorganico, 50% glicol
propuesta VALEO 50% yellow
12 liters

- engine oil:
especificación 20w50 mineral
propuesta: castrol magnatec semisintetico 10w40
5,75 litres(con cambio de filtro)

- gear box:
especificación 80w, API GL4, no hipoideo
ojo con los sincros, no vale GL5
propuesta: castrol manual 80w
1,1 litres

- diff no LSD
especificación 90, API GL4 o 5, hipoideo
propuesta: castrol classic EP90
1,6 litres[/QUOTE]
 
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Do any of you believe it’s acceptable to not change the coolant but to just renew the coolant additives? I have heard that the main reason coolant needs to be changed every 2 years is the loss of anti-corrosion additives. Here in the USA, there are many brands of coolant additives which supposedly can fully replace the lost additives. One is RedLine Water Wetter.

Of all the fuild changes required, I most dislike changing coolant because it is messy, safe disposal it more difficult than for used oil, and AFAIK nobody recycles old coolant as they do with used motor oil. If I only had one old car I might put up with it, but if I changed coolant/oil every 2 years on my small collection of old car, we are talking 36 quarts of oil and 10 gallons of coolant. This seems like a lot to dispose of given how little these car’s get driven.

John
 
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bfeng said:
Do any of you believe it’s acceptable to not change the coolant but to just renew the coolant additives? I have heard that the main reason coolant needs to be changed every 2 years is the loss of anti-corrosion additives. Here in the USA, there are many brands of coolant additives which supposedly can fully replace the lost additives. One is RedLine Water Wetter.

Of all the fuild changes required, I most dislike changing coolant because it is messy, safe disposal it more difficult than for used oil, and AFAIK nobody recycles old coolant as they do with used motor oil. If I only had one old car I might put up with it, but if I changed coolant/oil every 2 years on my small collection of old car, we are talking 36 quarts of oil and 10 gallons of coolant. This seems like a lot to dispose of given how little these car’s get driven.

John

John
Click to expand...

John, i am afraid i can not answer your question properly as i am not an expert in knowing what deteriorates in the coolant

but i will tell you that to add some (may i say snake oil) seems like a cheap shortcut, if there is a way to test that the properties of the resulting fluid are adequate, there is at least something that you are not doing, that is open the circuits, and flush the fluids, you will be having some debris, you will be cleaning the passages, maybe you can filter and reuse

i know is dirty, and ...but
 
A note to John and DeQ: Redline water wetter is the only "snake oil" product I have ever used in over 50 years of car maintenance that really works. I pull my 3500 lb trailer weight fishing boat with my SUV's in the South Florida heat 12 months of the year. The engines run cooler with a bottle of this fluid added before topping off with a 50% solution of regular antifreeze coolant. I use it in all vehicles including the E9. But the regular replacement schedule should still be kept.
 
Drew Gregg said:
A note to John and DeQ: Redline water wetter is the only "snake oil" product I have ever used in over 50 years of car maintenance that really works. I pull my 3500 lb trailer weight fishing boat with my SUV's in the South Florida heat 12 months of the year. The engines run cooler with a bottle of this fluid added before topping off with a 50% solution of regular antifreeze coolant. I use it in all vehicles including the E9. But the regular replacement schedule should still be kept.
Click to expand...

nice to know it works for you, there is no redline here and i will not try
a wetter, at least in chemical photography, is a fluid that improves adhesion of the base fluid, so i can imagine increases contact for a better heat transfer, strange to experience an improvement in a presurized system, but,...again i have not tried it
 
Drew Gregg said:
A note to John and DeQ: Redline water wetter is the only "snake oil" product I have ever used
Click to expand...

As many of you, like Scott Crater, know - race cars are forbidden to use regular coolant. My pro-race shop uses water plus RedLine WW in all the race cars they support. The primary purpose is specifically for corrosion control.

DQ: yes I must face the inevitable and change the coolant. Because mine is a street car and not a track rat I may switch to DOT 5 and Evan’s Waterless coolant when I have Mario redo the paint. Friends who have use DOT5 say it’s the best thing they have ever done (one friend has 16 year old DOT 5 in his classic car with no problems). In the last year I have had rebuilt 5 leaking or seized wheel cylinders. It is not fun. I want a maintenance free brake and cooling system for my street cars.
 
Not sure why you need to warm the coolant before drainage. Viscosity changes little and I don't see a way to remove the stuff from the engine block without getting a splash....for those of us with no lift.
 
proposals
bavbob said:
Not sure why you need to warm the coolant before drainage. Viscosity changes little and I don't see a way to remove the stuff from the engine block without getting a splash....for those of us with no lift.
Click to expand...

well if it is hot thermostat will be open that might help
and if particles in motion some will come out with the flow of fluid
i only see benefits, but ok, up to you
 
for the records,

fluids removed from the car,

coolant, 11 liters
engine oil, 5,2 liters (filter not removed yet)
gear box, 1,1 liters
diff, 1,4 liters
steering, 0,65 liters (apparently you can not remove more, the rest would be in the steering box for sure)
 
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Thanks for the great photo essay DQ I like it.

What is the fluid in the plastic beaker that looks like "cafe con leche"? There's no fluid in my car that looks like that.

The oil coming out of your steering system does not look like Dexron fluid, I thought they were mostly red in color, but it could be different in Europe.

I too HATE the weird sliminess of antifreeze. Seems you can't cleanly wipe it off hands/gloves/surfaces so the garage floor always needs a hosing down afterwards (I have a garage drain tied to the sewer system) but in spite of that I change it every other driving season. Too cheap and important not too. On jackstands, I can crack open the block drain from below and then take it off from above, thus avoiding the green shower. The radiator empties through the sensor bung on the output elbow so no need to take out the thermostat or fully warm up the engine (ouch!)

There is no EPA regulation on antifreeze (although states or municipalities might have one), it biodegrades and sending it down the sewer drain, not storm drain or septic, in the quantities we do is of no consequence, in my estimation. And no pets are getting into the sewer system...
 
Luis A. said:
Thanks for the great photo essay DQ I like it.

What is the fluid in the plastic beaker that looks like "cafe con leche"? There's no fluid in my car that looks like that.

The oil coming out of your steering system does not look like Dexron fluid, I thought they were mostly red in color, but it could be different in Europe.

I too HATE the weird sliminess of antifreeze. Seems you can't cleanly wipe it off hands/gloves/surfaces so the garage floor always needs a hosing down afterwards (I have a garage drain tied to the sewer system) but in spite of that I change it every other driving season. Too cheap and important not too. On jackstands, I can crack open the block drain from below and then take it off from above, thus avoiding the green shower. The radiator empties through the sensor bung on the output elbow so no need to take out the thermostat or fully warm up the engine (ouch!)

There is no EPA regulation on antifreeze (although states or municipalities might have one), it biodegrades and sending it down the sewer drain, not storm drain or septic, in the quantities we do is of no consequence, in my estimation. And no pets are getting into the sewer system...
Click to expand...


“cafe con leche”, that is gear box and diff oil, but i added ceramic additive, hence the emulsion that you see, it is 100ml. ceramic esther based additive

steering fluid is ATF D2 from BMW it is red in fact
 
Luis A. said:
garage floor always needs a hosing down
Click to expand...

I bought a 30” diameter drip pan at my local home improvement store. It is usually placed underneath a water heater to catch minor leaks. It is big enough to keep my floor clean when I drain a radiator. It was $23. It is deep enough to hold >6 gallons, but impossible to carry around without sloshing/spilling. I put it on top of a $8 HF furniture dolly, and wheel it outside where I drain it into empty 1 gallon milk jugs for disposal (radiator shops used to take old contaminated coolant).


2B3A9356-2B50-4333-92AD-5C027D491EC3.jpeg
 
the engine oil filter thing,

well trying to explain a couple of things here,

1 first the process that i follow, i have the original factory setup, so bottom bolt,

i find the best way to remove the four bolts that secure the filter support, you can place a bag around the thing and pick the filter from the top, it works pretty well, it is dirty, as some drops will spill here and there , but uf you clean inmediately

2 the famous little plate responsible for adequately closing the circuit inside the filter, you will see that this plate always appears glued to the cartridge, so if you or your mechanic does not know about it he you will throw it away








































 
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