Lan-Engine M30B30 Maintenance thread. Periods, products, processes,...tips and FAQs

Thanks for the great photo essay DQ I like it.

What is the fluid in the plastic beaker that looks like "cafe con leche"? There's no fluid in my car that looks like that.

The oil coming out of your steering system does not look like Dexron fluid, I thought they were mostly red in color, but it could be different in Europe.

I too HATE the weird sliminess of antifreeze. Seems you can't cleanly wipe it off hands/gloves/surfaces so the garage floor always needs a hosing down afterwards (I have a garage drain tied to the sewer system) but in spite of that I change it every other driving season. Too cheap and important not too. On jackstands, I can crack open the block drain from below and then take it off from above, thus avoiding the green shower. The radiator empties through the sensor bung on the output elbow so no need to take out the thermostat or fully warm up the engine (ouch!)

There is no EPA regulation on antifreeze (although states or municipalities might have one), it biodegrades and sending it down the sewer drain, not storm drain or septic, in the quantities we do is of no consequence, in my estimation. And no pets are getting into the sewer system...


Fairfax County, VA (just outside Washington, DC) confirms your assessment that antifreeze may be send down the sewer drain (not the storm drain) because it is biodegradeable.

One other comment on changing antifreeze. I changed the stopcock for a Fumoto elbow joint valve. This particular valve allows me to attach a hose to the elbow and run the hose to a drain pan prior to opening the valve. I now can change my antifreeze without spilling it all over the garage floor.

I believe this is the valve (but if you want to follow this advise, double check the thread size and pitch).

 
I bought a 30” diameter drip pan at my local home improvement store. It is usually placed underneath a water heater to catch minor leaks. It is big enough to keep my floor clean when I drain a radiator. It was $23. It is deep enough to hold >6 gallons, but impossible to carry around without sloshing/spilling. I put it on top of a $8 HF furniture dolly, and wheel it outside where I drain it into empty 1 gallon milk jugs for disposal (radiator shops used to take old contaminated coolant).


View attachment 102519

i use reclycled recipients, usually the 25 liter ones, i cut them in halves and use them sparingly, the part that keeps the mouth is very useful as you can then use for droping into smaller cans

those 25 liter recipients are thick plastic so they keep the shape well under wieght.
 
i will move slowly here as i have opened another “box” for some other adjustments,

my radiator has a micro pore and needs a repair, while i am there i will ask the shop to add a thread for an electro fan switch

also the carbs will be given a check and re-tune prior to synchro

and the valve gap adjustments are easier when you have access to the cranckshaft front nut from avobe

doing this here:

 
moving on,

so finished the oils, as diff and gearbox, lateral holes for filling in and level, let it drop to a proper container, and close using new washer for diff,

this is the mixture with ceramic additive, @Luis A.



poured engine oil, 5,5 liters, used a new valve cover gasket and put the cover on, closed in the torque specs and pattern



install the carbs back and made new fuel lines...

 
i was asked for this:

BRAKE pedal and linkage:

1606141490382.png
 
The strangest thing about your great posts, for me, if your hands are always clean. It is a sign your engine is spotless. Must be a joy to work on it.
 
The strangest thing about your great posts, for me, if your hands are always clean. It is a sign your engine is spotless. Must be a joy to work on it.

i agree that i enjoy a lot when i just make the replace and assembly part, you can do with clean clothes and clean hands,...look at the new or cleaned bits that you are using, check your notes or the books, clean tools too, that is nice !

nonetheless there is always a starting process called removal, that is a completely different story, i really dislike that part

thank you John for heads up
 
De Q
Are these the same as your stands, I often find I can’t get my current stands where I want them because of the shape of the legs interfering with the wheels /tyres so what you have looks perfect.


Aluminium, 4.5 kg and £60 in the U.K. which is about euro 65 today but soon £60 will be about €20!
The wood with hole drilled for the diff plug is a great idea, I will copy that idea tomorrow
 
De Q
Are these the same as your stands, I often find I can’t get my current stands where I want them because of the shape of the legs interfering with the wheels /tyres so what you have looks perfect.


Aluminium, 4.5 kg and £60 in the U.K. which is about euro 65 today but soon £60 will be about €20!
The wood with hole drilled for the diff plug is a great idea, I will copy that idea tomorrow


yes, similar ones
 
a word of advice when refilling an empty steering fluid system and garage temps below 10º (obviously celsius)

first attempt, simply fill in the reservoir, and start engine, bleeding was unsuccessful, moving the steering wheel resulted in pump almost stopping the engine

so all down out again and refill, this time slowly pouring the fluid while manually moving the pump pulley, then levelling using only the starter motor, and finally eninge on and warming up the thing,

success

....p.s. read and do what the manual says,...always

;-)
 
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