LAN my renewed engine M30B30 Running in process
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
check the dwell angle, using the strobo gun,
found that if gap is 0,4mm loose, dwell is 32degrees
so I set gap at 0,4mm tight, now dwell is 35 degrees
I check dwell at 900, 1700 and 3000 rpms, change only one degree,
so, now, remove advance hose at distributor, and cap it
raise rpms until 1700,
aim the strobo at the window and find the ball…
if needed rotate distributor…
found that if gap is 0,4mm loose, dwell is 32degrees
so I set gap at 0,4mm tight, now dwell is 35 degrees
I check dwell at 900, 1700 and 3000 rpms, change only one degree,
so, now, remove advance hose at distributor, and cap it
raise rpms until 1700,
aim the strobo at the window and find the ball…
if needed rotate distributor…
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It must be said that there is a direct relationship between dwell and advance, with the dwell at 32 the ball still did not appear and it was the Z that was aligned with the mark, that is, the advance was a couple of degrees greater, I calculate that instead 22° would be 24°. When I adjusted the dwell to 35° the ball appeared aligned with the mark.
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Thanks to Google...
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It must be said that there is a direct relationship between dwell and advance, with the dwell at 32 the ball still did not appear and it was the Z that was aligned with the mark, that is, the advance was a couple of degrees greater, I calculate that instead 22° would be 24°. When I adjusted the dwell to 35° the ball appeared aligned with the mark.
"
"
It must be said that there is a direct relationship between dwell and advance, with the dwell at 32 the ball still did not appear and it was the Z that was aligned with the mark, that is, the advance was a couple of degrees greater, I calculate that instead 22° would be 24°. When I adjusted the dwell to 35° the ball appeared aligned with the mark.
"
oh i just dictated it to my phone and posted it, thank you for translation
thoughts:
It must be said that there is a direct relationship between dwell and advance, with the dwell at 32 the ball still did not appear and it was the Z letter that was aligned with the mark,
that is, the advance was a couple of degrees earlier, I calculate that instead 22° was 24°.
When I adjusted the dwell to 35° the ball appeared perfectly aligned with the mark.
You can always adjust the distributor by rotating it in any dwell position, that is, with the dwell of 32, I would also have been able to align the ball.
What is significant is that this difference of about three degrees in the dwell (from 35 to 32) also means a difference in the advance.
recapitulation:
i have learnt two things,
1- the first is that the greater the separation of the GAP between the points, the smaller the dwel angle is
2- and the second, an evolution of the dwel angle at the points, for example due to wear, vibrations,... If the dwell is reduced (as In this case, from 35 to 32), it will mean that the engine ignition advance is increased. (from 22º to 24º)
It must be said that there is a direct relationship between dwell and advance, with the dwell at 32 the ball still did not appear and it was the Z letter that was aligned with the mark,
that is, the advance was a couple of degrees earlier, I calculate that instead 22° was 24°.
When I adjusted the dwell to 35° the ball appeared perfectly aligned with the mark.
You can always adjust the distributor by rotating it in any dwell position, that is, with the dwell of 32, I would also have been able to align the ball.
What is significant is that this difference of about three degrees in the dwell (from 35 to 32) also means a difference in the advance.
recapitulation:
i have learnt two things,
1- the first is that the greater the separation of the GAP between the points, the smaller the dwel angle is
2- and the second, an evolution of the dwel angle at the points, for example due to wear, vibrations,... If the dwell is reduced (as In this case, from 35 to 32), it will mean that the engine ignition advance is increased. (from 22º to 24º)
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Now carburetor tune and synchro....
remove the rear knurled bolt, try to get:
1- CO% as close as possible to 2% using the iddle screw
2- while iddle is at 900rpms
3- by means of the air screws at the carbs
Results at iddle
Now engage the knurled bolt and rise rpms until 1700
by means of knurled bolt set equal air flow at both carbs
remove the rear knurled bolt, try to get:
1- CO% as close as possible to 2% using the iddle screw
2- while iddle is at 900rpms
3- by means of the air screws at the carbs
Results at iddle
Now engage the knurled bolt and rise rpms until 1700
by means of knurled bolt set equal air flow at both carbs
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so 1000km mark passed, made the whole process: headbolts / valve gap / carbs synchro
iddle 980rpms
CO% is 2%
result sounds good to me:
iddle 980rpms
CO% is 2%
result sounds good to me:
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320km since 1000km
getting better and smoother; valve gap sound is the best one that i have done
eng revving very well, reaching the 4500rpms in a second
fast cruising, and very very quiet, the insulation job using modern materials is amazing
happy
getting better and smoother; valve gap sound is the best one that i have done
eng revving very well, reaching the 4500rpms in a second
fast cruising, and very very quiet, the insulation job using modern materials is amazing
happy
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important check of tyre pressure; very accurate motometer gauge
2,5 bar front
2,2 bar rear
2,5 bar front
2,2 bar rear