Leaking exhaust valve

Update

I did the wet test - no difference and confirmed exhaust valve leak.

Tell me if I am treading on thin ice here - I adjusted that valve clearance down to .08, hoping to get a little more stroke and maybe get some debris or whatever sh!t might be on there off. I idled and gently revved for a couple minutes and the compression went up 15lbs. Should I drive it for a bit to see if it improves or is this not a good idea at this lash setting? There is still some play in the rocker, it's not tight against the valve. The direction of the adjustment hole is the same as the others so it doesn't appear unusual there.
 
Open up the clearance. The theory being if there is something stuck on the valve/ seat and it turns loose, your clearance will go to nada in a bad way.

Reving won't do it. If you're feeling lucky go blow it out. You've got to get it hot enough and fast enough to do something good.

But I'm leaning towards taking the head off.
 
Will do, but I agree that head removal is becoming inevitable. Not looking forward to this, especially as the weather here is getting ideal for couping and I now have a major project looming :sad:

The car runs well despite the low compression in #2 cylinder - is it bad to run it as is for a while?


61porsche said:
Open up the clearance. The theory being if there is something stuck on the valve/ seat and it turns loose, your clearance will go to nada in a bad way.

Reving won't do it. If you're feeling lucky go blow it out. You've got to get it hot enough and fast enough to do something good.

But I'm leaning towards taking the head off.
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i do not think that you will experience problems if you run the car the way it is now
a slight unbalance in that cylinder probably will not result in damages
anyway try to get more experienced advice
regards
 
It's really not a good idea. Exhaust is very hot and will lead to bigger problems such as a valve head turning loose, cracking, etc. For your own piece of mind, it needs examined.


Sure you can take a chance. But again, it's not worth the added cost of a full rebuild. A good machine shop should be able to fix you up pronto.
 
Therein lies the problem - finding one here. So best case is I pull the head, deal with the valve in question, clean the others, and reinstall? Does it need to be shaved? What else should I have done while it's out? I don't really want to go too far down the slippery slope.

61porsche said:
A good machine shop should be able to fix you up pronto.
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machine shop

If you are looking for a shop, take a stroll over to the Mye28.com site and look for and PM a user named Kyle in NO. He's down your way and will be able to steer you towards a good shop.
 
Does it need to be shaved? What else should I have done while it's out? I don't really want to go too far down the slippery slope.
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Once it is out I would have everything done (unless it is a fairly new head). How many miles on it? A good machine shop should be able to assess its condition. It only needs to be shaved if it is warped. You could ship it to a reputable rebuilder?

Enjoy the sliding...
 
It has 42k on it and I have found a old tyme bmw mechanic from back in the day to assess it for me. I will yank it out this weekend. I plan on having it cleaned, rebuilt and decked if needed.

TodB I did get in touch with Kyle and he gave me the name of a shop in TN if need be thanks.

The view from the top of the slope is steep! :)

Sven said:
Once it is out I would have everything done (unless it is a fairly new head). How many miles on it? A good machine shop should be able to assess its condition. It only needs to be shaved if it is warped. You could ship it to a reputable rebuilder?

Enjoy the sliding...
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If you don't mind running up to Baton Rouge there are some good shops that I use there.
IMHO- you should get a known good head and put it on over one weekend and the send your head off to a shop.
BTW- we set valves at .07 for the track.
 
Head should be out of the shop this week, snail's pace there (part time old-timer mechanic doing it). Valves done and head decked:
IMG-20121012-00031.jpg


New valve:
IMG-20121012-00032.jpg


In order to keep my sanity I have been detailing the engine compartment out the wazoo: replaced engine mounts, painted brake booster, PS reservoir, radiator, engine block, exhaust pipes and manifolds and anything else I could find, cleaned all electrical components, then snapped off the stud where the batt cable mounts to the starter solenoid (doh) so new starter on the way, restored engine firewall insulations, cleaned the bronzed polaris paint as much as possible, all new coolant hoses, new braided hoses for fuel, overflow tank, and PS pump, new water pump, also had the valve cover and thermostat housings bead blasted (looks amazing-then sealed them with "Shark Hide" and will report long term results), new metal oil cap from Coupeking (not pictured):

IMG-20121012-00033.jpg


Also had the VGS manifold blasted and planed:
IMG-20121012-00034.jpg


Installed my wideband O2 gauge behind the center speaker (hidden unless turned on and it's removable for tuning so I can see it when adjusting the 3 webers).

Hopefully the head will go back on this weekend - I've run out of side projects and the wife is tired of webers and various hardware on the kitchen table! Will post install pics.

kasbatts said:
Hey Steve, how's the head rebuild coming on?
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Nice, sounds like it's going look outstanding, you will have to start entering concours soon :)
What compression ratio are you ending up with? Have you uped it or left standard?
 
Keeping it stock, I looked down the slippery slope and it was steep! I am anxious to drive it again and it's only been a month, I don't know how you all have the patience for a resto!

kasbatts said:
Nice, sounds like it's going look outstanding, you will have to start entering concours soon :)
What compression ratio are you ending up with? Have you uped it or left standard?
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Luis A. said:
Hi Steve, how did the Sharkhide hold up 10 years in?
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It did not, it eventually succombed to the elements under the hood (faded, had dirt embeded in it etc). I removed it with acetone and now just use metal polish on it a few times a year.
 
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