Locked out ... trunk

pkinden said:
My ignition key looks same shape but no dimples. Ignition key works fine it opens the doors well. The dimples key only operates the trunk normally.
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If your ignition and door lock key has no dimples then you should be able to turn on and/or open both with a slim screwdriver. Someone has removed the pins/springs in your other locks. An e12 ignition lock works in an e9 and is a common swap and that is what you may have, I have one of those in my NK sedan.

One last thought, if your key won’t return to vertical I still think it is hitting the striker, try tilting you key downwards when turning which might give it enough room to clear the striker.
 
When I meant filing, I should have clarified that it is the very tip of the key (see borrowed image). If you look, it is tapered and if the tip taper is not perfect, the key may not insert all the way, only miss by .5mm but that is enough to stop it from seating correctly. I noticed this when SM Lock sent me my new key and newly keyed lock. It was identical to my old key except for that little taper so would not work on the passenger door lock ( driver lock was re-keyed to match ignition and pass door). Gentle filing to match and viola!

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bavbob said:
When I meant filing, I should have clarified that it is the very tip of the key (see borrowed image). If you look, it is tapered and if the tip taper is not perfect, the key may not insert all the way, only miss by .5mm but that is enough to stop it from seating correctly. I noticed this when SM Lock sent me my new key and newly keyed lock. It was identical to my old key except for that little taper so would not work on the passenger door lock ( driver lock was re-keyed to match ignition and pass door). Gentle filing to match and viola!

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Cool going to try thank you.
 
HB Chris said:
If your ignition and door lock key has no dimples then you should be able to turn on and/or open both with a slim screwdriver. Someone has removed the pins/springs in your other locks. An e12 ignition lock works in an e9 and is a common swap and that is what you may have, I have one of those in my NK sedan.

One last thought, if your key won’t return to vertical I still think it is hitting the striker, try tilting you key downwards when turning which might give it enough room to clear the striker.
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Trying that shortly. Thank you. Great info.
 
Well despite best efforts ( which I’m proud of ) I’m outta luck. Miraculously managed to remove light bezel then lens without removing fuel tube. Unbelievably tight. FYI make sure you have a deep 8mm socket. Got super excited only to find unlike pics in similar post I don’t have second cavity closer to trunk latch. Plus the grey vinyl trim covers it and no way to remove. So bummed. Tried the lube trick w Lectra-motive spray. Called lock smith and body shop. Guess I’ll just try and drill it out. Gotta get my bag by morning. Long day late night no fun.
 

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BarryG said:
How to get back in... through the fuel rubber boot
1010da8c234b114df6e0a80c47d1e468.jpg


Then take out the tail light assembly
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Reach in and man handle the lock and your in

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Try to not scrape your arms, good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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After looking at this again I realize the access point in pic is exact same as mine. I cannot figure out how you got access to the lock mechanism with the hard vinyl trim. There’s jus nothing get hold of as far as the lock mechanism
 
HB Chris said:
There are two large plastic nuts on long studs which hold the bulb holder to the lens. There are now two m8 head nuts on very short studs holding the lens to the body which need to be removed. You might be able to squeeze your arm between the tail panel and the vinyl cover but it looks like Barry’s may not have this cover.
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Can’t get hand in there.
 
As my father used to say "Don't make me come down there!" Seriously, are you anywhere near Bloomington as I will be going there on the 13th?
 
bavbob said:
As my father used to say "Don't make me come down there!" Seriously, are you anywhere near Bloomington as I will be going there on the 13th?
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Hey I’m just now seeing your gracious offer. Sadly I chose the drill route and it actually worked quite well and Spears so far to only have destroyed the center part of lock not the latch mechanism. I’m a happy camper. Had to cancel 3 flights now I can go. Thanks again. Terrific group here very helpful info. I was dang proud to have removed the light lens and bezel with zero room. Now I need a source for new trunk lock.
 
pkinden said:
I am the king of the world !!
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You are in now , so you are good to go !
I only just read your post and was going to suggest , that if it was a series 2 car , that maybe you could get the car on a ramp and remove the fuel tank to get access to your bag.
I’m not 100% sure that would work, mine is a series 1.
and you still would have a stuck lock.
Anyway you are sorted now.
 
What @bavbob said. You're golden with that lock from Dan. Snap it up and send it to Santa Monica. They'll rebuild and re-key it. The trunk lock is actually the toughest of all the locks for some unknown reason but they should be fine... @pkinden
 
pkinden said:
My ignition key has no dimples. Zero. I’ve never seen a car with such odd dimples before. Maybe it’s common but not to me. I have a couple other older cars including a 61 Healy. Typically the older you get the simpler they look not the opposite. I owned an 83 Mercedes and had very common shaped keys. This is odd I’m my book.
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bavbob said:
You can send Dan's lock to Santa Monica Lock with your key and they will re-key to match. They are a reat resource and one of the few able to do this.
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He said the ignition key doesn't have any dimples. So he could use the trunk lock with key and not change it. OR, he might consider replacing all locks. I bought a set from W&N a couple years ago. However, looking at W&N now, they are out of them.

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